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Description

Bandit Buttress offers all year access to easy fun slab climbing. Prowler being the featured sport route. One of the easiest approaches on the North side of the canyon and set-up to be able to climb 3 to 4 routes in a short half day- Bandit Buttress is a great winter escape. Climb early morning or evening In Summer as this side of the canyon gets hot. Bolts have been placed to lean toward a sport approach but, placed in such a way that gear can be used to lead traditionally (except for Prowler and Cervesas in Zapata Land) as with the original ascents.

Access issues inherited from Carson Pass

Note: within the Eldorado National Forest you may park anywhere beside highway 88, provided your car is fully off the pavement. Obviously this rule no longer applies once snow season starts.

Approach

Follow a fairly well marked trail up North side of canyon just uphill from the chain control pull-out above Woodford's store. Park on South side pull out area. 20 minute approach.

Ethic

The Wordfords canyon area is stoutly traditional, and respectfully so. Bandit Buttress was established on a rather overlooked crag with the purpose of running up the hill with a rope and a dozen quick draws to knock out a handful of climbs in a short period of time during the colder months.

Routes

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Grade Route

Fun and easy crack and face on steep slab. Bolted to ease rope fouling but can be lead trad. Great for beginner leaders. Route is 105 to chains. Most regulars traverse to the anchor for "Prowler". If you do not have a 70m rope you can rap off the backside.

FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant, 2001

FA: Brian Chandler & Larry Van Sant, 2004

Tricky boulder start to a 9 bolt well protected face climb. Crux is about 20' below the anchor.

FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant, 2001

Difficult boulder problem start past first bolt leads to a wide crack corner to a blocky finish. Sported with 7 bolts to rap anchor shared with neighbouring climbs. Good rock.

FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant, 2001

FA: Larry Van Sant & Brian Chandler, 2004

5 bolts angle up and right on this sporty face climb. Somewhat challenging start leads to the crux after the 1st bolt. A wandering adventure.

FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant, 2001

FA: Brian Chandler & Larry Van Sant, 2009

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