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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.

Routes

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Grade Route

Small pro to 2". New bolts as of Aug, 2004.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchen, 1972

Retrobolted by the FAist in 1999/2000. No longer runout. 10 bolts on P1.

FFA: Chris Falkenstein

Two rope rappel, or continue up Boa for 2 more pitches.

FFA: Jeff Foott?

Pro to 1.5", 7 draws.

FFA: Dennis Oakeshott, Bruce Morris & Peter Mayfield, 1975

Pro to 4", 2 draws.

FFA: unknown

Mostly a low angle slab climb with a short corner offwidth exit pitch. Pywiack Dome has two small pine trees visible from the road and growing in the middle of the slab about 1/3 of the way up in large huecos. The route is just right of the right one. Bring 10 draws for lower pitches and pro to 4.5" for the last short pitch.

Approach Pitch: Easy scramble with no protection to two bolt belay station few feet below steeper darker rock. The anchors are hard to spot, but can be found 10 ft. to the left of the section of rock which looks like it might offer some natural protection.

Pitch 1: Follow a line of 5 bolts towards the hueco (solution pocket) with a small tree. The path of the route can be spotted because of the lighter color on the darker rock. The bolts to the tree are about 2-3 body-lengths apart. Follow 5 more bolts on the easier terrain with more distances between bolts, in this section finding the next bolt can be quite hard. This pitch is about 50 meters long and ends at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow line of 3 bolts while doing easy (~5.5) face climbing to two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Follow the bolts up and right until reaching a 1-2 foot wide roof with a crack underneath. Create natural gear belay at the crack or continue to the next pitch.

Pitch 4: Follow the roof-crack to the left as it become a corner crack. The climbing protects easily and is at around 5.3 level. Follow the crack to the headwall and build natural gear belay station. If you are using 60 meter rope and combined pitches 3 and 4, than you might be ~15 feet short of the optimal belay location.

Pitch 5: Move left to the short wide corner crack and follow it to the top. Gear up to 4.5 ''. Last pitch can be skipped if you want to rap down other routes on the wall.

Descent: Once on the top walk East (away from the lake, and towards the Meadows) and locate 2 bolt rap anchors at the East most corner. Rap 40 ft to the ridge heading East. Follow the ridge until walking down 3rd class slopes towards the road.

FFA: Dan Zimmerlin

Pro to 4.5" (if topping out), 3 draws.

FFA: Tom Gerughty, Roger Evje & Dave Meeks, 1966

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