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Northwest Face

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 50

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

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Routes

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Grade Route
  1. 5.6

  2. 5.9+

  3. 5.10a

  4. 5.10b

Walk off the summit.

FA: Mark Powell & Beverly Powell, 1962

Approach: gear-up at the car park and walk under Lembert Dome. To access the first pitch, follow the first ramp you come to, leading up & right above where you've hiked. Set-up a natural belay next to a tree.

  1. Up some mantles with the hardest protected by a bolt. Up to the roof and follow the corner out up and left. Well protected corner with cams/wires in crack. Belay at ledge where crack steepens to vertical.

  2. Straight up the crack.corner is 5.9, instead, climb out to the right on easy terrain and back above the crack. Continue up wide off-width crack to top. Belay under the final ledge (no gear).

Descent: walk-off right down 3rd and 4th class slabs.

FA: Warren Harding & Frank de Saussure, 1954

Start on the same ramp as 'Northwest Books', but where it goes up, continue along the ledge system all the way (odd 5th class move) until you pop out on the south side of the dome. Is sometimes used as a descent for 'Northwest Books'.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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