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Northwest Face

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 45

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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.

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Approach: gear-up at the car park and walk under Lembert Dome. To access the first pitch, follow the first ramp you come to, leading up & right above where you've hiked. Set-up a natural belay next to a tree.

  1. Up some mantles with the hardest protected by a bolt. Up to the roof and follow the corner out up and left. Well protected corner with cams/wires in crack. Belay at ledge where crack steepens to vertical.

  2. Straight up the crack.corner is 5.9, instead, climb out to the right on easy terrain and back above the crack. Continue up wide off-width crack to top. Belay under the final ledge (no gear).

Descent: walk-off right down 3rd and 4th class slabs.

FA: Warren Harding & Frank de Saussure, 1954

Start on the same ramp as 'Northwest Books', but where it goes up, continue along the ledge system all the way (odd 5th class move) until you pop out on the south side of the dome. Is sometimes used as a descent for 'Northwest Books'.

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