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description

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
  • 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07

Route history

1958First ascent: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore
1993First free ascent: Lynn Hill

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 37.73292, -119.64025

Grade citation

5.9 C2 VI Assigned grade
Hard Landin' Brandon
Jakob Kapelj
VI 5.11 A2 Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls
5.11c, A1 private
VI 5.13b Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs
VI 5.13b or 5.11 A2 Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select
5.13c Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America
5.13c or 5.9 C2 The Road to the Nose
5.13c or 5.9 C2 Yosemite Big Walls
VI 5.13c or 5.8 A2- SuperTopo.com
5.9 C1 private

Seasonality

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M
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 33 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 3
Tick 26
Target 8
Attempt 5

Comment keywords

hard classic super cool sweet great awesome fun magic scary tricky rest epic roof crack bad crazy smooth jamming hands flake traverse contrived sunny

Activity

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