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Desert Shield Buttress Mostly Trad climbing 4 routes in area

Grade context: US
Photos: 3
Ascents: 2

YDS

5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c

Map

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Seasonality

Access issues

Note: during shuttlebus operation hours you would need a permit to drive in. If using the shuttle just let the driver know and they'll be able to drop you off at the pullout approx 37.279790, -112.944546

Approach

Find the small tourist trail up the only creek (?menu falls) and step over the railing to the climbers scramble path up and to the right gets you to the start of desert shield

Where to stay

Permits apparently required to bivy on route - jungle bivy is plush.

Ethic

If you use the BBQ please replace any fuel used, carry out your ash.

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Routes

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Awesome mix of mandatory freeclimbing, aiding leads to a boltladder to access the money pitches - C2/C3 on sandstone on an absurdly steep prow. This route comes complete with plush bivy and BBQ. Don't walk past it.

Lots of offset alloy nuts, offset micros (brassies and peanuts) as well as small totems keep things sensible on the aid cruxes of this route, take a good selection of hooks. Note the spicy free on P2 may be a showstopper for some parties.

Further beta see the supertopo Zion book and mountain project log.

Obviously the usual issues regarding sandstone - ie. needs to be dry, no camhooks.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Rock around the World Guidebook

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

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