Ascents in World having Trad CPR

I can hang on with two finger's for two min

Fun

nutcracker/c.s. concerto better

Perfection. Low end.

2nd ascent

Much easier than Peace for me.

with Ronnie, Jan 2019

FFA with Connor Herson

The best piece of stone on earth. Wait… how do you crack climb?

非常搞心态的一条线路，最接近红点的一天手皮在指缝里拉爆了，养了一周手皮后刚爬鞋子又磨穿了，换鞋后每把都滑脚，心态都要炸了，还好今天放轻松爬，最后顶住了，这半个月学习到很多，攀爬更成熟了，感谢保护员利利，周磊老师，大闯老师。

Hazel via Insta: "Well I‘m pleased as punch. ☺️Gushing and long post to follow... (but feels appropriate). Today I climbed Magic Line fourth try of the day, on the last day of the trip with the pressure on and an emotional roller coaster of (more) breaking foot holds, a sore finger, numb feet and wind-blown water from Vernal Falls. But I worked hard for this one. I knew as soon as I tried it very briefly in November 2018 that if I was ever going to climb one very hard (for me) single pitch this would be it. Just because it was so beautiful to look at, so fun to move upwards on and in such a magical place. So I trained properly with the help of David Mason all summer and I committed myself to these 35 metres for the whole valley season. It was stressful getting heartbreakingly close twice but in reality doing it on the last day of the trip meant that this route was the perfect challenge for me, testing me right to the end. To give you an idea of how hard this route was for me - the lower boulder crux is the hardest boulder problem I’ve ever done. Of course it’s nice to bask in send-glory but really the process is where I’ll take the value from and there’s no chance this route hasn’t made me a better climber/person. Thanks to the Kauks for inspiring me especially Lonnie (who I think has done the route 4 times now 🤯) and all the valley friends this year who’ve spectated or participated in this process and supported me along the way especially Madeleine Cope, Angus Kille, Barbara Zangerl (lucky belay), Jacopo Larcher, Sandy Russell, Keenan Takahashi."

Awesome pitch!

OMG unexpected, but first lead attempt I climbed this better than ever and flowed to the top. So happy to come away with this tick from an amazing time in China. Huge thanks to Hannah for the belay / hiking efforts.

Whoop! What a route! Super psyched on the style and the lessons it taught me. Given the history it was always a dream route. Quite the mental battle in the end. This trip (my 3rd on the route) I managed to pretty quickly cruise up to and through the birdbath. But I fell 9 times above the birdbath!, mostly trying to match hands after getting my foot on it. Tough to match this route as a lesson in technique and flow, especially the top half. Thanks to Marie for the many patient belays and to Will Monks for working it with me last trip.

Punk

FFA.

这条线路大概80米长度，前面两段难度11，大概40米，后面一段可能40米左右，难度13+，2017年西班牙Raúl首攀，Tony老师拍摄纪录片“黑洞”，线路用到7号到00号塞子，各种尺寸都要会爬，前面7-4号塞比较费耐力，后面比较靠能力，爬到最后两米一个动态动作，比较考心理，在这条裂缝里攀爬就像是掉进一个无尽的黑洞，非常煎熬，时间很漫长，这条线路对我来说绝对是裂缝技术的一个突破。

Hot, 15-17C and 65%. Zero breeze. 2x TR burns both with 1 fall at crux #2. Very good considering conditions. [15]

Commencing the campaign. 2 working TR burns. [13]

One of the most properly resistant in the area - and a total blast to climb on. Pumpy!

2nd Go

First time back on after 17 years. A bit of an exploration following Duncan's funeral to feel that connection again and consider if I want to commit further. [11]