Routes in World

Great rock, technical crux up high. Share start with Mouse. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

"The best sport 13a in America?"

Up the face using arete + crimps. Burly. Sit start.

Straight up, match foot/hand in the midway crack while balancing. Don't go too far right.

Line starts at bottom right side of the small cave. Heads up right side to top and then traverses along lip to top out at the left side. Many variations for top out.

Start in bottom right corner of small cave and work the low line along the back of the cave to top out at left.

Tiny boulder downhill from the Maw of Malice. Sit start under boulder on good jugs, various options for topping out...good training, especially for little 'uns.

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

John Wildes route starting from ledge into offwidth and then up overhanging arete

1. 15m 5a A nice corner pitch
2. 18m 5b thrutchy overhanging pitch with some rusty pegs.

1. 4b An easy first pitch but without any worthwhile gear
2. 5b steep and strenuous with some rusty pegs but gear not too bad.

A relentlessly steep and pumpy crackline. One of the most sought after ticks of it's grade in the area.

Start from ledge to left of La Sancta Wall. Up corner then traverse left to arete and delicately up, traverse left to anchors.

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

Low start, matched on the broad sloper rail. Go up and left to the seemingly broken hold, then up and right via crimpy edges. Top out to the right of the fern.

This is an eliminate which does not use the giant sidepull/slopey jug hold on the right. Everything else is in.

Start bunched on low edges, aiming for high sidepulls and mantle

Long sequence of technical moves to top

Burly start easing to top

Heads right from start hold

Long sequence of technical moves to top (Not!)

SDS

The start flake has recently broken off, leaving the problem much harder. It still awaits a post-break FA.

Up groove from edges to slopers

Dyno to sloping lip from large edges

Up from glued sidepull to long edge then left to hold at lip and mantle.

Obscure and crap, intensely reachy.

Defiant Mantle

Technical Trad stuff in groove

Start as for 'L'envers du decors' then up to crimps at break and on to the arete to finish up 'Thumb Power'

The obvious low roof opposite the corridor.

2m right of MP Bouldery start.

Sit down start low and right on good jug for left hand then up features to mantel top out. Beautiful!!

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off.

Easiest one on the rock. Ladder-like.

Friction climb. Very slabby.

Sit start up the arete. Burly. Round the corner of the boulder from #12. Top out directly from the undercut side - don't pull around onto the slab.

Sit start, at the end of the boulder sharing #21.

Go from the bottom to the top. Layback, climb the face, do what you will really.

Direct up the arete off the small flake. Balancy and thin with a deadpoint required. Mat and spotter mandatory if you like your back.

On the right side of the sine wave rail. Sit start on the rail and shoot straight to the top...five moves will get you the tick!

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

Near over hanging belay ledge, traverse out or start form below, avoid dirty and loose rocks up slabs before no hands rest and then slightly chossy but good roof walk off from below roof possible.

Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007

Variation of number 6. The arete is the definitive climb in the CCA guide. V7 for the arete, V2 to join up with no. 6.

Straight up using the poor feet and the incut at chest height, incut higher up and the bulge. A few ways to do it but they're all mean.

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

Straight up the acid traverse boulder on tiny crimps with a slopey as crap dish to help you along. May want to lose 5 kilos before hopping on it! V4 with the gaston, probably closer to V5 if you throw straight from the chipped incut crimps to the hueco.

Slabby and more scary than tough. Don't be fooled by the photos - it's quite tall!

Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!