Routes in World

First 9A in the world, yet to be repeated and confirmed. Grade proposed by Nalle Hukkataival after several years of trials. During these years, Hukkataival "very quickly" solved several 8C and 8C+ boulder problems throughout the world, including Gioia. Compared to these other problems, Burden of Dreams felt "way way harder".

Red Tagged!

First 9c of the world. The climb begins with 20 meters of sustained 8b climbing to a knee-bar rest, before entering a 10-move 8C crux with some V13 and V9 cruxes towards the anchor.

video of the FA

Ground up version of 'Off the wagon'. First 8C+ in 'Switzerland'

"Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion." Nalle Hukkataival.

Semi traverse, 16 moves, a foothold broke at the beginning of March 2015 but got glued back right after

#sd

#traverse

Hypothèse with a sit start.

This problem is still awaiting grade concensus.

Second ascent by Ryohei Kameyama, March 2019 proposed grade V16/V17 - 8C+/9A

Nicolas Pelorson proposed only 8C or V15

#traverse

#traverse

#sd

First 8C+ in the world.

Z madla pod cestou 'Kudlanka' ze sedu (nastupuje zde 'Špička ledovce' i 'Pata ledovce'), traverz doleva do spáry, konec v hrotu stejně jako 'Euro 2000' a další, ve spádnici druhého jištění cesty 'Hradní spára'.

Start jako 'Brutus', dolez cestou 'Ghost Rider'. Celkem 25 těžkých kroků. Do cesty 'Ghost Rider' se přidá 8A+.

It links “Brutus”, an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider, providing a lower start into Ghost Rider. The boulder problem is long, it has 25 hard moves and according to Adam Ondra could also be graded as hard 9b sport route.

Adam Ondra #68: Brutal Rider 8C+ / Czechia's Hardest Boulderproblem

A 30 move problem, the first of its grade in Japan. Situated under a bridge by a river.

Extension of Euro Roof.

Sit start of Terre de Sienne.

First attempted by Nalle Hukkataival.

A low start to Leviathan Style.

Originally graded V15, but upgraded in 2016 to V16.

The proudest and most obvious line on the classic Grandpa Peabody boulder.

Progetto

8C hard or 8C+

#SD

fysiek

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

The route is 45-degrees overhanging with a boulder problem to pull over into the final slab. 25 moves of 8c+ to reach a poor rest. Then 10 moves to reach the crux: a jump from a mono to a big pinch. Afterwards endurance 8b+ with few rests. Yellow rock at the bottom that goes to white and at the top it is grey.

Ascents

• Adam Ondra - 20 October 2013
• Seb Bouin - 18 June 2019

First 9b+ of the world.

Currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

This is Beyond with its extension

Left exit to Ray of Light.

A 13-move problem.

Considered the benchmark for 8c (V15). First confirmed 8C in history, by Dave Graham. Five years earlier, Fred Nicole had proposed 8C for Dreamtime, on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+

#SD

'Boogalagga' with sit start.

Discovered by Dave Graham. FA by Giuliano Cameroni (video).

Direct exit of Foundation Edge. Grade to be confirmed.

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

The line is right behind Dinos don't Dynos and near Rythmo.

#sd

#expo

Video-Beta: https://youtu.be/00spoNb8c6U

Airian begins in the Arroita block and ends at the top of Hay que masticar antes de tragar.

A roof full of small crimps.

Sit start