Routes as sport in World

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges.

Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since.

Left of Astral plane

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

At the top of the crux of 'Exodus lI', break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug.

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

From the chain of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way.

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

The unclimbed line of bolts.

Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'. Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Link Required into Requited.

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Boulder start through underclings left of The Undertaker to jug, then out to crimps out left and up, briefly into Siva Direct. Trend right up to a hard boulder problem finish (direct via the pinch). A left hand sequence is also possible.

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

Popular sport route.

Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. Quite probably still un-repeated.

Start: Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym

Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

Looks bloody desperate.

Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.

Climb directly into 'Escape' without bridging.

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Soft for the grade. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.

Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.

From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.

Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'.

Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish.

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains.

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

Tweaky

Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor!

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

Starting just right of arete, climb pretty orange wall through small overlap. Continue steeply up wall to small stance and rap anchor.

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulders' will probably just highball it at V2!

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

BOLTS ON THIS ROUTE ARE DANGEROUS with stress cracking that is hard to see. Stay off until replaced. Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

Start: 3rd bolted line from the left.

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off.

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start (stick clip ring) up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left to join MP. Climb all the way to top of cave. Ignore bolt out left Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.

Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor.

Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain.

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route.

Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

Line of 5 bolts at the very left hand end of the main face. Follow right

trending crack to difficult moves into the corner and up to a welcome

rest. Head back left and then up to anchor.

Starts at tree against cliff. Bridge up tree till you can reach break above slopy ledge. Now power your way to the top.

Good and interesting climbing, tricky crux followed by and exciting mantle and sustained climbing to the top. Maybe 27.

Start: Next bolted line right of Hidden Kingdom

This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping.

The overhanging arete on excellent orange rock. 'Steep' moves lead to a difficult transition to the face, with a sting in the tail.

So called because you can't see any of the holds from the ground. Start up in between LH and DT follow the line of bolts up the weird never quite horizontal holds to a difficult crux through the bulge to a thank god pocket. Then continue straight up to join DT at the last bolt. Don't be afraid to use the slopy side pull!

Complex climbing, with the occasional weird move to negotiate (as you'd expect from the first ascentionist!). Expect a reasonable amount of lichen. FHs on the right side of the Shangri La wall. Requires second to clean due to traversing.

Brilliant 'Arete' that is all too short.

Up the middle of the over hang to a ok rest then hard bolder crux on the face before the end. open to any and all

Small roof route through cave just left of the Northern Cave with 5 rings.