|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|14||★ Holdup Line Direct Finish
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.
Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.
FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970
|13||★ Sexless Sue
Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.
FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970
|13||Sue's Crutchless Knickers
Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.
Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.
FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983
Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.
Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.
FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall|
|13||★ Trooper Two
Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.
FA: Peter Martin, 1981
|14||★ Kelly Watch The Stars
The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|13|| Sir George
Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.
FA: John Fisher, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V0-|| V0 Problem
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
The crack requires a bit of jamming.
Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.
FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966
|14||★ Tom Thumb
The layback corner.
Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.
FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969
The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.
FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|14||Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000
|14||A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock.
The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
|13||Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.
FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|13||★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.
FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.
FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971
|14||Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.
FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|14||I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.
FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001
Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|13||Kick the Ladder Down After You
Takes a line of jugs.
Start: Start 1m left of TLL.
FA: Leech & Pritchard, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall|
Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'
FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall|
Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019
Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015
If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!
Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.
Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.
FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|13||★★ Hell For Leather
As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.
Start: Start 10m R of T.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
1 13 20m
2 12 22m
Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
|13||The Frontier of Credibility
The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.
Start: Start R of LS.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
The crack then slender buttress.
Start: Start just R of DM.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1978
Start: Start at the buttress R of DM.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1973
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.
Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.
FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966
|14||★★ D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.
This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.
Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
|14||★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo
This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.
|14||★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.
Start: In the 'D Major' gully.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967
One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of 'Ejaculation'.
FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
|14||★★ Fiddle Diddle
Desperate for short people.
Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.
FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995
|13||★★ Horn Piece
Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.
FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.
Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.
FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966
|13||Hot Air Symposium
Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.
Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008
The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.
Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.
Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (#3 RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.
FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968
Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.
Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.
FA: Bert Levy, 1998
Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.
FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
The small crack/corner system on the L.
Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.
FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981
Start: The next line right.
FA: L, P & H, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
Start: Start as for Quisling.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (DS: Chris Baxter & Ed Neve), 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|14||★ Three Pitches to Glory
Start: Start just L of P.
FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976
|13||★ Sob Story
The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.
Start: Start R of P.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|14||★★ Strife on the Gravy Train
2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.
Start: Start 6m R of DS.
Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
Tricky start then into the wide crack.
Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.
FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000
|14||★ Ball Terrier
The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.
Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.
Up, finishing on arete.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999
Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.
Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016
Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.
Start: Start between H & F.
FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975
|13||whatever Tom decides to call it
Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.
FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018
A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.
FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014
Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.
FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011
|13||It's A Goer
Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.
FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 8 Apr 2012
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start: 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!
A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, take the R arete to find the rap anchor on a ledge just below the top (although the climbing is better if you take the shallow corner on the L arete)
FA: John Moore, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford
|13||Fox on the Rocks
From the block step L and up frictional slab.
Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.
FA: Rod Young, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.
FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015
Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.
|14||★ Wild Mountain Thyme
Up the R crack,which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.
Start: Start at the crack R of A.
FA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982
|14||Wild Mountain Sage
Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.
FA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dec 2018
Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.
FA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982
Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.
To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress|
Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.
Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire) . Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall|
The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.
Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully|
Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).
FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert|
Belay on big ledge 35m down abseil. Easily up orange corner, but watch out for some loose rock, to the little overhang. Through overhang and up interesting ground (slings needed) then easy ground to top.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 22 Mar 2014
Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.
Start: Start by the giant chockstone.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Schirmer, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress|
1 9 35m
2 13 35m
3 13 30m
Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.
Start: Start between 'Dreadnought' Buttress and 'Dunes Buttress' at a shrubby rib.
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965
|13||★★ Dunes Direct
1 13 30m
2 11 25m
3 10 22m
4 12 23m
A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.
Start: Tuck under the boulder left of 'Eskimo Nell' - One metre right of the start of Arab.
FA: Greg Pritchard & Simon Mentz - mid's, 1990
|13||Eskimo Nell RHS
Not bad, Seems hard for the grade. Start around R from 'Eskimo Nell' in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of 'Eskimo Nell'
FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1966
|13||The Dark Side of the Dune
Start: Start as for 'Eskimo Nell RHS'
FA: Bill Andrews, Dave McLean & Barry Edwards, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area|
|13||A Snortiblog in Paradise
Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.
Start: Start at Ali's.
FA: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress|
Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.
Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.
FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965
Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.
Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.
FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little & Patrick Over, 1997
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque|
The bulging crack just right of the plaque.
FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder|
|V0-||★ The usual descent
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder|
|V0-||★ High traverse
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder|
On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder|
Up jugs by pockets
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle|
Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.
Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area|
The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.
Start: Start just R of A.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face|
Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.
FA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976
This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall|
Has a lot of loose blocks.
The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!
Start 7m R of BT.
Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.
FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall|
|14||★ New Tricks
Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.
FA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Jul 2015
Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974
The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.
Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.