|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|25|| ★ Deck Games
Very appealing rock.
Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V5|| ★★ The Big E
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|25||★ Failing New Romantic
The original start climbed a tree, which since fell down. Now there is a bolt and you need to batman the start.
Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Batman, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.
An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground has been bolted, still a closed project.
FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|25||Lord of the Midgets
L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.
Start: Start R of MRS.
FA: Gavin Jensen & Wayne Jensen, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
|25 X||★★ Elmer Thud
Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!
Start: Start 2m R of R.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989
|25||★ Mixed Metaphor
VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|25||★★ I Dunno Direct Finish
I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
|25||★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes
Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.
Start: Start L of the blunt arete.
FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981
The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.
Start: Start R of D&C.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982
The reachy face with a bolt.
Start: Start just R of LL.
FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck|
|25||★★★ Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.
Start: As for It'll Never Fly.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
|25||★★ Fail Safe
Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.
Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|25||★ Gay Olympics
Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.
Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!
FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983
|25||★★ Golden Gaytime
Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006
|25||★★ No Country for Old Men
An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.
Start: Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.
From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Glenn Tempest, Sep 2016
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle|
|25||Up, Up and Away
Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide.
Start: Start just right of 'Stirling Moss'. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.
FA: Ant Prehn, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
|25||★ The Flashing Blade
Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular.
Start: Start on the uphill side of the 'Iron Void' pinnacle.
FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
Start: The start is not described...
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979
|25||Rats Have Feelings Too
The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.
Start: Start 5m R of WT.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Ant Prehn, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
|25||The Philosopher Direct
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V5||★ Traverse the whole Bunny
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
Start as for QDS.
Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Simon Parsons, 1981
|25 R||★★★ Squeasing
Start as for QDS.
Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.
FA: ingvar lidman, 2005
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall|
|25 X||Small Wall
This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top Start: Start 1.5m L of TSSO.
FA: Dave Mudie, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|25||★★ Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish
Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.
Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
|25||★ Alone in the Dead Zone
Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.
FA: Tim Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall|
|25||★★★ Deep Freeze
The leftwards diagonal. Not that well protected at the start, but a great little route.
It has been done starting in from the L, but it's harder and not as good.
Start: Start 2m L of the R arete of the wall.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Eddy Ozols, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.
Start: Start just L of the arete.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.
Start: Start just L of C.
FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990
|25||★★ Blind Ambition
Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.
Start: Start down R of I.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982
|25||★★ Girls on Bikes
Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.
Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
|V5||★★ Outrageous Coincidences
L to R trav
|V5||O.C's R to L
|25||★★ I'm a Mess
Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
|25||★ Tres Hard
Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.
Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979
|25||★ Playing With A Different Sex
Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.
FA: Roland Foster, 1982
Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979
Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.
Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Wilkie, 1982
Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.
FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber|
|V5||★★ 5) Second thin seam
Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.
|V5||★★ Left side of scoop
Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".
|V5||7) classic traverse
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress|
|25||★★ Taste Sensation
From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.
Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1981
|25||★★★ Taste Sensation Direct Finish
Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this launch straight up into Grimstone's finish.
Back at ground level, 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.
Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Louise Shepherd, 1983
|25||★ The Perfect Match
Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. Note: Trad anchor now mandatory after some tosser stole the double ring anchor.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2008
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress|
|25||★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant
Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd carrot bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.
FA: Kim Carrigan early 80s.
|25 R||★★★ Ride Like the Wind
Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two carrot bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.
FA: Mike Graham, 1980
|25 X||★ Mr Fukuoka
PR, BR, R into 'Windsong' to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge.
Start: Start R of RLtW.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Jeff Shrimpton & Phil Begg, 1990
|25 X||★ Breezin'
Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.
Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.
FA: Mike Graham, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully|
|25||Happy as Larry
Line of bolts 2 metres left of Dreadnaught, finishing by veering right that climb.
FA: Matthew Brooks. Mids, 1990
|25||★ Dreadnought Variant Variant
Start on the L of DV then cross it and finish on it's right.
Start: Start just L of DV.
FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1984
|25||★★ No Exit
Start: Start 10m R of 'Dreadnought'.
FA: Chris Peisker & Tony Dignan did p1, 1979
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff added p2, 1979
|65m, 2, 1|
Unattractive crimps past 2 bolts to jug, then face with piton.
Start: Start 2m R of NE.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir (the independent start described was added by Martin Scheel)., 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress|
The roof jam crack.
Start: Start under the small lump of rock with a flat top, up and R from the start of 'Sandpiper'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall|
Start: Start 2m R of FC.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994
|25||Standing on Principles
Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.
Start: Start 2m R of NS.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Kim Carrigan, 1985
|25||★★ Master Blaster
Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better).
Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is good gear now with modern gear, (especially near the pin which should not be trusted by it's self), but can you hang on to place it. The High bolt on Morfyne should also be backed up.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Carole Bradley, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area|
Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.
Start: Start as for Ali's.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress|
Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang). Alternative opinion: the gear is not bombproof! Small, fiddly gear through crux with decking potential if you can't place it. Good gear exists at the start and in the top diagonal.
A block came off the start of the hard section, not sure if this has changed the route.
Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque|
Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.
FA: Nick White & Dave Mudie
FA: Kim Carrigan & Greg Child
|25||★ Sonic Boom
A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.
Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Animal Acts|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall|
|V5||★ Jump to Jug
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder|
Can be bouldered or top roped (there's a bolt on top).
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder|
The Continuation of the traverse (1) on the wall facing the creek
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders The Playground|
A linkup that traverses the cave, twice.
Start as for "Four", traverse leftwards and then finish up traversing right as per "One".
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle|
|25 X||Let Me Cry
Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.
Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.
FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985
|25 X||I'll Nail You
Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.
Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.
FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area|
Thin corner with a bolt.
Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Glenn Tempest, 1981
|25 R||★ Imagination LHF
The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.
Start: Start as for I.
FA: Chris Peisker, 2000
Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.
Start: Start as for SC.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face|
|25||★★ New Diocese
Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins 'Preservative Added' about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall.
Start: Start between 'Anxiety Neurosis' and 'Missing Link', where there is a short flake above a low roof.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face|
|25||★★★ Station to Station
Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past BR and frightening mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb (starting up TC), 1980
Start as for Recent Theft.
FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|60m, 2, 5|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall|
wonderful little companion route to Barnstormer. Breaches the roofline 1 ½ metres left of Barnstormer, past a bolt, some trad gear then a second bolt, before tending rightward for the last two body-lengths to Barnstormer’s anchors.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Jun 2016
A classic Arapiles baby bum face route. Originally given 24 but since upgraded (rightly so) in line with Vanja's upgrade. Quite sustained and powerful.
FA: Ingvar Lidman
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area|
Positional Climb the wall and steep arete to the left of Boy Racer.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010
|25||★★ Sunday Best
Sustained right-hand line starting out of 'Boy Racer'. Half of this pitch was originally aided as 'Syrinx' 'Direct Finish' by Peter McKeand and Gordon Talbett on 26-12-1968 and Chris Baxter had freed the top half of the route from above the crux on 3-12-1977.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead., 1982
The finger-shredding sickle starting two metres right of 'Greasy Burritos', veering left into that climb.
FA: David Gallagher, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder|
|V5||★★ Blunt arete
Sit start and up via slopers on blunt arete above blocks between the two Gonzos.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder|
Jump to the poor hold and head right and up.
|25||★★ Not the Height of Fashion
FA: Jon Muir
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag|
|25||★★ The Low Down
Sensational jug hauling traverse
Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'
FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1984
|25||★★ The Undertaker
The first grade 25 in the country.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1965
FFA: Mike Law & Greg Child., 1978
|25||Me and My Hamster
As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.
FA: John Muir & Geoff Little., 1985
Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little., 1985
Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.
FA: Tim Hancock & Andrew Thomson, 1969
FFA: Mark Moorhead., 1980
1m left of Dynamic.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Pan Grove|
|25||★ Stepping Out Direct Finish
Start up the thin seam as for 'Stepping Out', to the halfway ledge. Then, where 'Stepping Out' traverses R, continue straight up (just right of the arete). If it feels like the route is solid for the grade, just wait until you get to the final moves...
FA: Roland Foster & Phil Bigg., 1984
|25||★ Stepping Out
Start up thin diagonal line to a ledge. Traverse right past a BR, then move up the wall (cruxy, but about 4 grades easier than the Direct Finish). Move R and then over the bulge to the top.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd., 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall The Bat Cave|
Not that nice.
Start: The crackline left of 'Living With a Hernia'.
FA: Paul Hoskins, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall|
|25/26||★★ Lick the Spoon
Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress|
|25||Blockwork Orange Direct Finish
As for original to break, then climb through roof past bolt.
Start: As for BO.
FA: Brian Fish, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Waste of Space Gully|
|25||★★ I Wanna Be Your Dog
R of SWCF is a R-leaning crack beginning from a hand traverse. Runners were placed with a stick.
FA: John Lattanzio & Phil Parker, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall|
|25 X||Four Wheel Drive
Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.
Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.
FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall|
Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.
Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother'
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins & Scott Camps, 1988
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie|
|25||★★ Punks in the Gunks
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Punks up the leaning diagonal, but traverse off R at the second bolt to chains on the arête. The first bolt is very high and a committing clip for those at this grade.
FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982
|25||★★ Punks at the Piles
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).
Start: Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984