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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
14 Holdup Line Direct Finish
Trad 20m
14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 28m
14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
14 Kelly Watch The Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0- V0 Problem
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
14 Nero

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 13m
14 Tom Thumb

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Trad 15m
14 Roaming Knows

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
14 Dud Day Afternoon

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000

Trad 50m, 2
14 A Sore Finger

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
14 Climb is not the correct noun

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
14 I'm A Little Teapot

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001

Trad 25m
14 Charybdis

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

  1. 15m (14) The R crack to the ledge.

  2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

Trad 30m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
14 Rat Cracker

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
14 Chico

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
14 Huldra

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015

Trad 15m
14 Scatterbrain

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
14 Tarzan

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
14 Eurylochus

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
14 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.

Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

Mixed trad 30m, 1
14 D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe
14 Libretto - CS Concerto combo

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.

  1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of 'Libretto'.

  2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

Trad 50m, 2
14 C.S. Concerto

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.

Start: In the 'D Major' gully.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

  2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967

Trad 50m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
14 Fiddle Diddle

Desperate for short people.

Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
14 Cod Piece

Not attractive.

Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
14 Tremulo

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.

Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966

Trad 25m
14 Alychne

The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (#3 RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968

Trad 40m
14 Middle 8

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
14 Underachiever

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 30m
14 Overachiever

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
14 Blobs Away

Start: The next line right.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
14 Three Pitches to Glory

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976

Trad 15m
14 Strife on the Gravy Train

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
14 Ball Terrier

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 15m
14 Bitch Wank

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
14 Loyalty

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975

Trad 18m
14 Beguiled

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014

Trad 15m
14 It Went

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
14 Penny Lane

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

  1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017

Trad 20m
14 Meanwhile...

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start: 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985

Trad 20m
14 Megalomaniac

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!

A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, take the R arete to find the rap anchor on a ledge just below the top (although the climbing is better if you take the shallow corner on the L arete)

FA: John Moore, 1967

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
14 Next Horizon

3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
14 Easier Access

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Thyme

Up the R crack,which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start: Start at the crack R of A.

FA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Sage

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

FA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dec 2018

Trad 29m
14 Pitchfork

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

FA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982

Trad 40m
14 Gethsemane

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
14 R Castelle

Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).

  1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of 'Dreadnought' pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

Trad 45m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert
14 Ngarrinarri

Belay on big ledge 35m down abseil. Easily up orange corner, but watch out for some loose rock, to the little overhang. Through overhang and up interesting ground (slings needed) then easy ground to top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 22 Mar 2014

Trad 40m
14 Crusader

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

  1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

  2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Schirmer, 1977

Trad 60m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
14 Mantis

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965

Trad 33m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
14 Minimus

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0- The usual descent
Boulder 5m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V0- High traverse
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V0- V0-

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V0- 8

Up jugs by pockets

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle
14 Shoadee

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Trad 24m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
14 Lightning Crack

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

FA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
14 New Tricks

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

  1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

  3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

  4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Jul 2015

Trad 110m
14 Swansong

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

  1. 30m (-) As for EC.

  2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

  3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

  4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

  5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974

Trad 120m, 5
14 Resignation-Kaiser

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.

Trad 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
14 Shaggy's Route
1 14 40m
2 13 35m
3 13 35m
4 ?

Increasing traffic means that this route has cleaned up quite nicely. With more traffic it should become as good as the Dribble but at a higher grade and with more varied climbing.

The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up.

Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.

  1. 40m (14) Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. A very good pitch.

  2. 35m (13) Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top.

  3. 35m (13) Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge.

  4. -m (-) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch and finish up that or alternatively wander off to the right.

FA: Shaun Kratzer & Derek Chadderton

Trad 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
14 Heart of Stone

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Gordon Talbett, 1969

Trad 27m
14 Squeaker

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

  1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

  2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

FA: Possibly John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1965

Trad 41m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
14 Lichenthrope

About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 15 May 2018

Trad 20m
14 Buttons

Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands amd Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014

Trad 10m
14 Black Box

4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014

Trad 25m
14 Black Box Direct Start

Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 6 Feb 2016

Trad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
14 Midgets Club

Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge.

FA: Jae Zhong & muki woods, 30 Oct 2019

Trad 27m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
14 Lamplighter
1 10 30m
2 14 30m
3 13 18m

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

FA: 1965

Trad 78m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
14 Punts On A Whim

Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 7 May 2016

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
14 Tamesis

Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline.

Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise".

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969

Trad 42m
14 West Coast Dogma

Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Trad 33m
14 Robinson Crusoe

The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 5 Apr 2015

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall
14 Soggy Muffin

A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall.

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 14 Jan 2017

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
14 Crab Walk

Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.

  1. 18m Climb past right side of the massive chockstone (original start of Hendor'. Belay just below obvious orange cave.

  2. 20m Climb past left side of the orange cave, then step delicately right to diagonal crack. Up this then traverse right and finish up right side of the wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 23 Feb 2017

Trad 38m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
14 No Room for Mistakes

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

FA: Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
14 Lusts of the Flesh

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 14m
14 Carnal Intent

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
14 The Green Singer
1 14 45m
2 12 45m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

  1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

  2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

  3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

  4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

FA: Lockwood. (var)

FA: Keith & Tim, 2002

Trad 130m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
14 R Hot Flap
1 8 24m
2 13 30m
3 14 32m
4 13 50m
5 12 35m

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

  2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

  3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

  4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

  5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

FA: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 1965

Mixed trad 170m, 5, 2
14 Driftwood/Antigone

FA: Speedie, Stone, Kerkin / Caffin & Wilcox

Trad 120m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
14 Salamander
1 12 25m
2 13 25m
3 14 10m
4 14 25m
5 12 30m

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing.

Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (as for pitch 1 of 'The Watchtower' Crack).

  2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweeping to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.

  3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).

  4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.

  5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1964

Trad 120m, 5
14 Gecko

A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to 'Salamander' or as a climb in its own right.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1965

Trad 48m
14 Gecko / Salamander Link

As for Gecko (14) to the rap chains then follow Salamander to the top.

Trad 100m, 3
14 Mantle

More great slabbing.

Start: 8 metres right of 'Brolga', directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.

27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor. 14m (6) Easily up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965

Trad 94m, 3
14 Lounge Lizard

The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower.

Start 5 metres right of 'The Mantle' at a clean seam.

  1. 27m (14) Up seam then step right to right-facing flake/overlap. Up on left sde of this to ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Up diagonally right to flake and clump of spear grass at 8 metres. Above left are two horizontal overlaps on bulge in wall. Pass these on the left, then back up right to good anchors. The bulge can be climbed direct at grade 20 with poor protection (Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson 1984).

  3. 48m (12) Straight up.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill & Barry Edwards, 1981

Trad 95m, 3
14 Blue Tongue

Another mossy filler.

Start 8 metres right of Lounge LIzard on cleanish rock.

  1. 25m (14) Left past two holes near ground. step right an wander up to the base of a short corner (Chameleon).

  2. 50m (14) Up corner, over bulge and up.

  3. 10m (-) Up

FA: Peter Kraehenbuhl & Darren Crawford, 1990

Trad 85m, 3
14 Chameleon

Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1983

Trad 90m
14 Chameleon Connection
1 14 27m
2 13 22m
3 13 39m
4 10 18m

This route combines the best bits of 'Chameleon' and 'Joyride' as well as imrpoving the first pitch of 'Chameleon'.

Start 25 metres right of 'Brolga' at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of 'Omaha Beach'.

  1. 27m (14) Up technical seam then straight up mossy, easy ground to left end of good ledge.

  2. 22m (13) Step left and through steepening then straight up to little horizontal break level with terrace on right. Traverse right and belay below small, right-facing corner at left side of terrace.

  3. 39m (13) Corner and wall to big ledge.

  4. 18m (10) Move right and up two short walls then easy scramble off right.

FA: See Chameleon & Joyride, 2000

Trad 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
14 R Manx

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 25m
14 Manx Right-Hand Variant

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

Trad 25m
14 Creeque Alley

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall
14 Rolling Stone

Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Phil Grossi & Rein Kamar, 1969

Trad 11m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
14 A Whale Of A Time

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

  1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

  2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

  3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

  4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

  5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2010

Trad 140m, 5
14 Stop lt Or You'll Go Blind

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1989

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall
14 Dingbats

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

  1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984

Trad 50m, 2
14 Tea is Full of Good Things

The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016

Trad 25m
14 I will build a great wall

Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP.

FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017

Mixed trad 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
14 Touchstone

Two very nice pitches.

  1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1974

FFA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003

Trad 60m, 2

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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