|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|18|| ★ Raiders of the Lost Crack
Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.
Start: 1m right of 'CC'.
FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
In the same vein as Je Sui Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.
Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
Start beneath the R side of the front face.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
|18||★★ The Rack
People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.
FA: John Ewbank, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|18||★ dont chuck your shoes till it is over
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|18||Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face.
Start: Start 6m R of BT.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|18||Angry, gun totin', meat eating people
Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague
arete to top.
Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
|18||★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.
Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.
FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
Start: Start R of CLCP2.
FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.
Start: Start 4m L of BL.
FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989
|18||★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.
Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981
|18||★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.
Start: Start as for IaLD.
FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
|18||★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line.
Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967
FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall|
|18||Serious Young Lizards
Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.
FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver|
This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Jack Lewis, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.
Start: Start R of EE.
FA: Mike Law & Yoshio Mishima, 1982
The next line of holds up the face.
Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.
FA: Robin Miller & Dave Gairns, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.
Start: start left of 'Tendrils'
FA: Rod Young, 1980
Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980
Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.
Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.
FA: Mike Law
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
|18||★★ Gilt Edged
Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|18||★★ Daily Planet
Superman is lurking!
Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980
FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.
Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.
FA: Mike Stone & Peter Watling, 1975
FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton), 1977
|40m, 2, 5|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
|18||★ The Iliad Connection
Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.
Start: Start as for Iphigenia.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|18||Almost Completely Worthless
What's in a name?
Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998
|18||What Is and What Should Never Be
Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.
Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.
FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|18||★★ Steel Delinquency Variant
Up the slick crack to join SD.
Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Flake then short wall.
Start: Start in middle of wall.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
|18||★ Dude Boobs
Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.
FA: Roger Caffin, Sue Caffin & Jan Neville, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.
The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.
Descend via rap off chains.
FA: original start by Peter Lindorff & Chris George early 70s with 2 aids
FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975
Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974
|18||★ Cantata Variant Start
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
|18||★★ Jens roof
A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others.
Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.
Go straight up to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef) and follow the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. The climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, up through middle of roof to easier climbing and 30m rap anchor.
FA: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 2007
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.
FA: Dave Scarlett, 2 May 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
Start: Line on arete.
FA: L, P & H, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Feb 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|18||★★ Golden Fleece
A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.
Start 3m R of Jason.
Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969
FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than 'The Rack'. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.
Start: Start just R of FT.
FA: Roland Pauligk, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall|
|18||★ Creeping Green Chinese Crud
Start: Start 3m L of TSSO.
FA: Craig Nottle & Mark Moorhead, 1979
|18||★★ The Stoat Steps Out
Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The RHV goes diagonally R.
Start: Start under the main chalked crack line on this wall.
FA: Peter Watson & Barry Edwards
The block and seam.
Start: Start 1m R of TSSO.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985
Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top!
Start: Starts right of 'Bunyip' and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
The bottomless crack.
Start: Start R of WoT.
FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall|
Dyno, then the wall.
Start: Start R of CV.
FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982
|18||Eat More Fat
Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.
FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.
Start: Start R of D.
FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield & Ann Hurst, 1992
The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)
Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966
|18||★★ Howling Wolf
The diagonal crack then the face.
Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.
FA: Matt Taylor & Rod Young, 1978
More wide crack thrashery.
“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”
Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966
|18||★ The Hard Ears
The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Ben Ewald, 1976
|18||★ Yelping Pup
Start: Start 1m R of THE.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Gordon Talbett, 1978
A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.
Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.
FA: Andy Reynolds & Simon McRae, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall|
Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.
Start: Start as for H.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|18||★ Happy Ending
The crack with a hard start.
Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Law, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979
|18||Don't Do This
At last - some truth in advertising!
Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing 'Central Gully'.
Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.
FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
|18||★ Johns Corner
Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. (The DF goes straight up from the corner at 20).
Start: Start off the top of the detached pillar.
FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
|18||★ Brown Thumb
Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor
FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015
|18 R||★ Access
Start right of Eat Your Greens at the dark grey section of slab. Up boldly to first gear at 6m. Continue up wall 1m left of Pet Parsley until the two routes merge for lower angled finish. 30m lower off.
FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1981
|18||★ Pet Parsley
Up tiny ramps to bolt left of WMT. Up to bottomless crack in pod and to ledge on WMT. Step left and up wall. There are good small wires between bolt and pod if you look around.
FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 12 Dec 2015
|18||★ Pritchard's Neuralgia
Down from Misunderestimated are 2 lines up a short grey bulging wall. Up the right line, climb over or around a large detached block depending on how mad you are feeling to a grey seam leading to ledge under orange roof. Lower off. Watch rope if using 50m.
FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 23 Dec 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress|
|18||Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute
On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.
FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 1 Jan 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall|
|18||★ Subliminal Cut
Start 5m R of 'Red Parrot Chasm' on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 1982
Recently underwent a major makeover to reveal a very enjoyable pitch. Start at the line between 'Stalagmite' and 'Preludes'. The crack to break, then steep tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Best finish is direct through the pumpy overhang (18), or move over L to finish up much easier crack of 'Stalagmite'
This route has very large loose blocks. Probably not a good choice if you are just leading 18, and maybe worth avoiding altogether.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Williams, 1987
|18||Smeg and the Heads
Up wall on left through steep bulge.
Start: Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'.
FA: Smith & Pritchard, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle|
|18||★ The Curse
Up the crack on the east face (the one that looks towards camp), then the SE arete (the one which looks towards the Organ Pipes).
FA: Mike Stone & Andrew Thomson, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress|
|18||★ Rolling Dice
start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!
FA: Geordie Webb & Kane Hendy, 25 Nov 2016
Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.
Start: Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up 'Dunes' or Eskimo Nell).
FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1975
|18||Eskimo Nell Upper Variant
The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.
Start: Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which 'Eskimo Nell' pitch 4 crawls under.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977
Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack.
Start: Start under the middle of the grubby wall.
FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall|
|18||★★ Natchez Trace
A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.
Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite 'Missing Link' or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977
A sweet slab.
FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980
|18||★ Housemaid's Knee
The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.
Start: Start just L of G.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress|
|18 R||★★ XI
The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...
Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.
FA: Mike Law & Peter Watson, 1976
A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.
Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965
Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge
FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth, 2004
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque|
Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.
FA: Mike Law
|18 R||★ The Nose of El Capitan
Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.
FA: Mike Law
|18||★ Age of Raisins
Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Jon Muir
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder|
|V0+||★ Wall R of the descent
|V0+||★ Up nice wall
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders No Hands Boulders|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall|
Up the seam.
|V0+||Face L of easy crack
On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.
|V0+||High easy crack
Climb the high crack on the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress|
|18||A Group of Thrutching (Thracian) Women
Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier.
Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Debra Sweet (1st pitch), Deb Sweet, Jon Bassindale (2nd & 3rd pitches)., 1999
1 18 33m
2 17 32m
A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.
Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.
FA: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965
|65m, 2, 2|
The middle of the face, kinking R at one point.
Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'.
FA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1990
|18||Shepherds in Love
Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above.
Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Dennis Kemp, 1981
|18||The Desired Variant Start
Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD.
Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'.
FA: Robin Miller & Louise Shepherd, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle|
Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.
Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area|
Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.
Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.
FA: John Moore & Phillip Stranger, 1966
|18||Heart of a Dog
The face, leading into I near the top.
Start: Start 2m R of I.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face|
A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a mallion on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!
Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.
FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone & John Moore with two points of aid., 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face|
|18||★★ Preservative Added
An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time.
Start: Start as for ML.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jim Grellis & John Chapman, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall|
Start as for 'Seneca'.
Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.
FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall|
|18||★ Blue Diamond
Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear.
FFA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, May 2015