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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
18 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

Trad 28m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
18 Raiders of the Lost Crack

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
18 Limp

In the same vein as Je Sui Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 7 Oct 2015

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
18 Thimble

The crack.

Start beneath the R side of the front face.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977

Trad 9m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
18 The Rack

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

FA: John Ewbank, 1968

Trad 13m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin
18 dont chuck your shoes till it is over
Trad 7m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
18 Thighs and Quivers

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
18 Angry, gun totin', meat eating people

Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague

arete to top.

Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
18 Glutimus Maximus

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989

Trad 14m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
18 Speedy Lou

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
18 Deception

Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.

Start: Start 4m L of BL.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

Trad 15m
18 I'm A Little Dinosaur

Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.

Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981

Trad 25m
18 I'm A Little Asteroid

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork
18 King Rat

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967

FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
18 Serious Young Lizards

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver
18 Chalk Talk

This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Jack Lewis, 1986

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
18 Riddled

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

FA: Mike Law & Yoshio Mishima, 1982

Trad 18m
18 Bing Crozzley

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

FA: Robin Miller & Dave Gairns, 1982

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
18 Falsetto

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

FA: Rod Young, 1980

Trad 15m
18 Tendrils

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980

Trad 15m
18 Wascal

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

FA: Mike Law

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
18 Gilt Edged

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

  1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

  2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Trad 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
18 Daily Planet

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980

FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area
18 Cassandra

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 22m (18) Straight up past 5 bolts, then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

  2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

FA: Mike Stone & Peter Watling, 1975

FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton), 1977

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
18 The Iliad Connection

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.

Start: Start as for Iphigenia.

  1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

  2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998

Trad 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
18 Almost Completely Worthless

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998

Trad 10m
18 What Is and What Should Never Be

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle
18 Steel Delinquency Variant

Up the slick crack to join SD.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
18 Chicken Stock

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
18 Dude Boobs

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
18 Cerberus

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

FA: Roger Caffin, Sue Caffin & Jan Neville, 1966

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
18 Aardvark

Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.

The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.

Descend via rap off chains.

FA: original start by Peter Lindorff & Chris George early 70s with 2 aids

FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975

Trad 18m
18 Cantata

Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge. Varient start (19) is little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974

Trad 35m, 2
18 Cantata Variant Start
Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
18 Jens roof

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others.

Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.

Go straight up to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef) and follow the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. The climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, up through middle of roof to easier climbing and 30m rap anchor.

FA: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Mixed trad 30m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
18 Overachiever Direct

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 2 May 2015

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
18 Cellulite

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
18 Brickeasy

A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Feb 2015

Trad 28m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
18 Golden Fleece

A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start 3m R of Jason.

Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969

FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
18 Hyaena

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than 'The Rack'. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

Start: Start just R of FT.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1967

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
18 Creeping Green Chinese Crud

Short line.

Start: Start 3m L of TSSO.

FA: Craig Nottle & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 8m
18 The Stoat Steps Out

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The RHV goes diagonally R.

Start: Start under the main chalked crack line on this wall.

FA: Peter Watson & Barry Edwards

Trad 8m
18 Bunyip

The block and seam.

Start: Start 1m R of TSSO.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 8m
18 Time Warp

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top!

Start: Starts right of 'Bunyip' and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall
18 Wusstic Charm

The bottomless crack.

Start: Start R of WoT.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall
18 Pritikin Sucks

Dyno, then the wall.

Start: Start R of CV.

FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982

Trad 10m
18 Eat More Fat

The rooflet.

Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.

FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
18 R Kapunya

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield & Ann Hurst, 1992

Trad 10m
18 Dingo

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Trad 25m
18 Howling Wolf

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

FA: Matt Taylor & Rod Young, 1978

Trad 28m
18 Jackal

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Trad 25m
18 The Hard Ears

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Ben Ewald, 1976

Trad 13m
18 Yelping Pup

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Gordon Talbett, 1978

Trad 12m
18 Hound Dog

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

FA: Andy Reynolds & Simon McRae, 1995

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall
18 Wildfire

Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Trad 13m
18 Happy Ending

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
18 Femroc

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979

Trad 20m
18 Don't Do This

At last - some truth in advertising!

Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing 'Central Gully'.

Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.

FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
18 Johns Corner

Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. (The DF goes straight up from the corner at 20).

Start: Start off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Brown Thumb

Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015

Mixed trad 15m, 2
18 R Access

Start right of Eat Your Greens at the dark grey section of slab. Up boldly to first gear at 6m. Continue up wall 1m left of Pet Parsley until the two routes merge for lower angled finish. 30m lower off.

FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1981

Trad 30m
18 Pet Parsley

Up tiny ramps to bolt left of WMT. Up to bottomless crack in pod and to ledge on WMT. Step left and up wall. There are good small wires between bolt and pod if you look around.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 12 Dec 2015

Mixed trad 30m, 1
18 Pritchard's Neuralgia

Down from Misunderestimated are 2 lines up a short grey bulging wall. Up the right line, climb over or around a large detached block depending on how mad you are feeling to a grey seam leading to ledge under orange roof. Lower off. Watch rope if using 50m.

FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 23 Dec 2015

Trad 26m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
18 Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute

On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 1 Jan 2015

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
18 Subliminal Cut

Start 5m R of 'Red Parrot Chasm' on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1982

Trad 18m
18 Interlude

Recently underwent a major makeover to reveal a very enjoyable pitch. Start at the line between 'Stalagmite' and 'Preludes'. The crack to break, then steep tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Best finish is direct through the pumpy overhang (18), or move over L to finish up much easier crack of 'Stalagmite'

This route has very large loose blocks. Probably not a good choice if you are just leading 18, and maybe worth avoiding altogether.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Williams, 1987

Mixed trad 35m, 2
18 Smeg and the Heads

Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Start: Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'.

FA: Smith & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle
18 The Curse

Not bad.

Up the crack on the east face (the one that looks towards camp), then the SE arete (the one which looks towards the Organ Pipes).

FA: Mike Stone & Andrew Thomson, 1978

Trad 17m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
18 Rolling Dice

start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!

FA: Geordie Webb & Kane Hendy, 25 Nov 2016

Trad 35m
18 Penal Confinement

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start: Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up 'Dunes' or Eskimo Nell).

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1975

Trad 37m
18 Eskimo Nell Upper Variant

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start: Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which 'Eskimo Nell' pitch 4 crawls under.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 12m
18 Brontosaurus

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack.

Start: Start under the middle of the grubby wall.

FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
18 Natchez Trace

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite 'Missing Link' or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 15m
18 Kinkaid

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980

Trad 20m
18 Housemaid's Knee

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
18 R XI

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law & Peter Watson, 1976

Trad 30m
18 Fang

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965

Trad 25m
18 Preying

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth, 2004

Trad 37m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
18 Tis-sa-ack

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

FA: Mike Law

Trad 10m
18 R The Nose of El Capitan

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

FA: Mike Law

Trad 10m
18 Age of Raisins

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Jon Muir

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0+ Wall R of the descent
Boulder 5m
V0+ Up nice wall
Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders No Hands Boulders
V0+ easy slab
Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V0+ V0+

Up the seam.

Boulder
V0+ Face L of easy crack

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.

Boulder
V0+ High easy crack

Climb the high crack on the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress
18 A Group of Thrutching (Thracian) Women

Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier.

Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.

  1. 25m (18) Follow obvious and contrived line diagonally left, being careful not to step into gully.

  2. 10m (18) Up hideous grovel on left end of 'Redd Tracy' ledge. Belay when possible.

  3. 15m (18) Follow line up until it meets 'Directathal' and reverse first moves of this route to join Alis!

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Debra Sweet (1st pitch), Deb Sweet, Jon Bassindale (2nd & 3rd pitches)., 1999

Trad 50m, 3
18 Eurydice
1 18 33m
2 17 32m

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

  1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

  2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

FA: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965

Mixed trad 65m, 2, 2
18 Lubricant

The middle of the face, kinking R at one point.

Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1990

Trad 10m
18 Shepherds in Love

Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Dennis Kemp, 1981

Trad 32m
18 The Desired Variant Start

Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD.

Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'.

FA: Robin Miller & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle
18 Shalimar

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Trad 31m
18 Shanghai
Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
18 Aristocrat

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Trad 25m
18 Heart of a Dog

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
18 Scorpion

A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a mallion on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone & John Moore with two points of aid., 1966

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
18 Preservative Added

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time.

Start: Start as for ML.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jim Grellis & John Chapman, 1975

Mixed trad 30m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
18 Time Out

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
18 Blue Diamond

Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, May 2015

Trad 32m

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