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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
27 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

Mixed trad 12m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
27 Spinning Around the Drain

Old James Falla project with a bolt or maybe two? Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Trad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
27 Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

Sport 20m
27 Detestes

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.

Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Mixed trad 15m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
27 Love That Pain

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985

Mixed trad 40m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
27 Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy.

Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher'

Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher' (ignore third bolt out right). At first horizontal traverse right to flake which is followed to 'Cadenza'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier & Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Mixed trad 18m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall
27 Chill Pill

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011

Trad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
27 Exodus 2.5

At the top of the crux of 'Exodus lI', break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

FA: Dave Jones

Sport 20m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber
V6 1) two small edges
Boulder
V7 4) Out thin seam
Boulder
{US} V6 6) big dyno
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
27 R Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
27 Forced Entry Direct

Start 1m right of 'Dreadnought Variant' and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks (old piton). Join 'No Exit' near the top, and finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1991

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
27 Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: As for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 6
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V6 V6
Boulder 4m
V7 Trackside Reverse

Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.

Boulder 2m
V7 10

Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V7 V7

On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V6 3

Steep arete facing the creek

Boulder
V6 9

Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof

Boulder
V7 11

Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof

Boulder
V7 12

Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall
27 London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 30m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
27 Taylor Made

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
27 Anxiety Neurosis Original Line

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

Sport 20m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
27 FinaI Departure

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 27m, 7
27 Requited

Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Sport 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
27 Fox on a Hot Thin Roof

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V6 Crankshaft Traverse
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder
V6 Traverse
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V6 Attack a Helpless Chicken
Boulder 6m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
27 Body Recession

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 3
27 Hot Coq

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

Sport 15m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Rats Alley
27 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
27 Picking Winners

Start: Start 2m L of UCRN.

  1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

  2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979

Trad 50m, 2
27 Escape & Enter

The obvious link of Moorhead’s 1981 Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8.

Mixed trad 16m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
27 Mind Arthritis

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Mixed trad 35m, 5
27 Senile Dementia

Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
27 Flights of Fancy Direct

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
27 Twinkle Toes

Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
27 Elongate

Very reachy.

Climb the wall left of White Heat.

FA: Mark Moorhead. Chris Shepherd had earlier climbed the upper section as a variant (26) to "White Heat", 1983

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
27 Genug

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder
V6 V6 arete

Sit start arete and head straight up.

Boulder
V7 Finalgon

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
27 Security Jerks

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall
27 My Soul to Keep

An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.

Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.

Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Trad 35m
27 Akakage

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988

Mixed trad 50m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Watchtower Area Boulders Moody Blues Boulder
V6 Moody Blues

FA: Andy Pollitt

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
27 Mormon Poultry

Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS

FA: Simon Weill

Trad
27 The Fortress RHV

Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version.

FA: George Fieg (?), 1995

Mixed trad 12m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall
27 Tigger

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Mixed trad 12m, 2
27 Model Phantom

Thin stuff.

Start as for 'Blue-Eyed and Blond'.

Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left and up blank-looking wall past two bolts to jugs

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

Mixed trad 35m, 2
27 Pooh Sticks

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

Mixed trad 22m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group High Dive Gully
27 Power Corruption and Lies

"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt.

Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands).

Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall
27 Bada boom

Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Mixed trad 30m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Upper Curtain Wall
27 Encore

Start as for Cliffhanger. Continue straight up passing a bolt. At the roof reverse Curtain Call for 3m. Gain the headwall above via a neat pocket sequence (crux) passing two bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Mixed trad 30m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder
V7 Traverse
Boulder
V7 Sit start
Boulder
V7 V7 Problem
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Closed Campground Boulders
V7 Inspector Gadget

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

Boulder 4m
V7 Inspector Gadget Left

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

Boulder
V6 Pinch Dyno
Boulder
V6 Silly Putty

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip, then head right through the huecos following the obvious line leading to a top-out up and right. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

Boulder 5m
V6 Silly Putty Direct

Follow 'Silly Putty' to the lip, then head directly up through juggy flakes.

Boulder 4m
V7 Butt Gravity

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Boulder 5m
V7 happy camper

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

Boulder
V7 Button Mushrooms

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Boulder
V7 No Sex After Mushrooms LHV

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

Boulder
V7 Hip Flexor

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Boulder 4m
V6 No. 24
Boulder
V7 Plus

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

Boulder
V6 Connection

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

Boulder 4m
V6 Asterix

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

Boulder
V6 Fat Cow

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave
27 Canadian Honey

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.

FA: 2004

FFA: Josh Grose, 27 May 2018

Sport 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder
V6 Drowning Dicaprio

Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.

Boulder 4m
V7 Problem#4
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives Shangri-La
27 The Fat of the Land

This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping.

FFA: adam demmert

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

Sport 25m, 9
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave
27 Malice

The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent.

FFA: adam demmert, 2008

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

Mixed trad 35m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering
V7 The Show Must Go On

start in back of cave, come thru underclings, gain the lip climb left and top out on final jug.

Boulder 5m
V7 Primus Balerinus

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

Boulder
V6 Let it Be
Boulder
V7 Pussy Power

This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

FA: Sophie King

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Daves' Cave
V6 Tim and Kyles Big Love

Sit start to central line through roof to join PO.

Boulder 7m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Top Cave
V6 I Feel So Holy

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave
V7 Captain Tonnelli

Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Lower Cave
V7 Woody Guthrie

Lower Cave.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
V7 God of Thunder

Lower Cave.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder
V6 Shattering Dreams

Sit start. No crouch or stand start. Big shouldery move to the seam and pass crimps to top out.

Boulder 3m
V6 Compaction

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder
V7 Cardigan St Massacre
Boulder
V6 Media Construct

Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out.

Boulder 4m
V6 Breakfast of Champions
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Bolt Boulder
V6 The Bolt Torque Project
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder
V7 Lust

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

Boulder
V7 Ministry of Love
Boulder
V6 Ministry LHV
Boulder
V6 Sexy Direct
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder
V6 Conga Fury VAR

Same start as Conga Fury but instead of compressing your way up, shift left and follow the crimp line around the arete.

Boulder 3m
V7 Lisa Machete

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Boulder 3m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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