Routes in World for selected grade

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

Muchos bloques por hacer de grado muy variado. Varios problemas abiertos de 5º y 6º grado.

4+, 3, 5+, 6b (5+/A0), 5+, 5+, 6b (5+/A0), 6a, 4+, 4, 6a, 5, 5

The second biggest cove area, directly near the port and ship docking area (http://kko.to/pRLchd7fj). A strong traverse with sharp crimps make a splendid workout.

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

Starts at the left corner of the east-facing wall; go up 6 bolts to the top of the column and chain anchors (5.10a); safer to belay here if doing the more serious 3 bolts finish (5.12b)

Lots of variants

Cara oeste/sur. L1: 5c, L1+L2: 7a/7a+

Per questa via è possibile scegliere tra tre versioni. L1 5b L2 IV L3 IV+

Informazione : https://www.infoelba.it/sport-tempo-libero/sport-terra/free-climbing/san-bartolomeo/

Warm up on the right of No name (steep), start from the left, the grade depends on how far you traverse to the right

esta adentrandose en la junglita del lado izquierdo es muy prominente

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

versiones

Eigentlich kann man hier alles machen und ausprobieren.

Pitch 1: 5c, 22m, 8 bolts

Pitch 1 + 2: 7a, 42m, 17 bolts

#SD Guidebook 5m 4C, rockclimbing.dk 3m 6A+.

Route follows traverse of SW ridge feature and accompanying pinnacle and sub summits. Grade varies based on exact route up each tower/bypassing certain features, 5.9 is common throughout the line.

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Well featured wall to warm up on. About 6 problems V0-V3 across the face.

Dinámico de los agarres de abajo al agarrote alto. igual con muchas variantes para cambiarle el grado y practicar dinámicos.

En la zonita de la entrada, travesía para la izquierda, agarrando cualquiera de los miles de agarres, para calentar. Un poco más difícil que ir de izquierda a derecha. Tan difícil o fácil como quieras y puedas hacerlo.

En la zonita de la entrada, travesía para la derecha, agarrando cualquiera de los miles de agarres, para calentar. Tan difícil o fácil como quieras y puedas hacerlo.

R2, R3 bolted in 2015 by Alex

7a for full route

You can practice boulder movements here on the flat wall.

#SD

#SD. Nice long move.

#SD

Old top rope problem. Kelly Hansen holds the honor of having first top rope ascent of this little beastie.Up crack to lip then crimp hard onto very thin face. Tenuous and balancy moves under right leaning Flake to thank f*#K jug. 2BR, 3BB.

Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder.

The tottering right facing corner climbs to the same lower offs as "A Touch Too Much". You don't have to bother.

The climb’s start is punctuated by a young neem tree growing in front of it.

Be gentle with the tree. It could help soften the grade at some point. If you pre-clip the first bolt and climb from left of the tree along the arete, and continue to the second bolt, the grade is no harder than 5.10a/b, but still an excellent and enjoyable climb, that takes you along crystal block to your right and crimpy slab to your left.

If you reach the bolt along crimpy and slabby finger pockets, grade jumps just for those few moves.

Project above the line is to extend it for a multi-pitch to the roof. Anchor stations in place

Climb the sloping face with tons of big jugs. Perfect for kids.

Pitch 1: 26m, 5b+

Pitch 2: 20m, 6c

Cara oeste/sur. L1: 5a, L1+L2: 6c

Per questa via è possibile scegliere tra tre versioni. L1 5a L2 6b L3 6c

Informazione : https://www.infoelba.it/sport-tempo-libero/sport-terra/free-climbing/san-bartolomeo/