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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
7 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
7 Trooper One

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 10m
7 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
8 Marshmallow Sea DS

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Trad 14m
7 Marshmallow Sea

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975

Trad 14m
7 Taya

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
7 R The Shaker

An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock.

Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.

  1. 22m (7) The loose juggy crack to a large ledge.

  2. 32m (7) R and up loose dangerous rib.

  3. 12m (-) Scramble off.

FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966

Trad 66m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
8 R The Match

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
7 Prairie

Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it.

Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner.

Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge.

FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
7 Easy Lizard

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
7 Cauldron

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 60m
8 Tantalus

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

  1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

  2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands & Alan Marsland, 1965

Trad 35m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
8 Diapason
1 7 20m
2 6 25m
3 8 10m

The first climb done in the 'Organ Pipes'. A very pleasant outing.

Start: Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

  1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

  2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

  3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963

Trad 55m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress
8 Echo

This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present.

FA: Troy Surkitt & Dan Cross, 30 Apr 2015

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
7 Charity

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968

Trad 14m
7 Chastity

Diagonal crack.

Start: Start just R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
8 Merry Go Round

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 25m
7 Wool socks and galoshes

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016

Trad 25m
8 Emohawk

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
8 Blinky Bill

This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new.

Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 24 Jan 2017

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
8 Dodgy Brothers

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 10m
8 Lobbail

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 21 Apr 2014

Trad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor
7 Mouse

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
8 Kestrel Alternate Finish

An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade.

From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse.

Trad 42m
8 The Eighth Direct Finish

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964

Trad 60m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
8 Pan Groove

A gentle romp that could serve as an alternative start to The Dribble.

Up the Pan Grove slab to whitish blocks at 15m. Instead of moving right (as for Pan Grove), continue following the left-leaning groove. When the groove peters out, step slightly right and finish in the obvious groove. Note: the steep bulging crack on the right is lovely to start, but the finishing blocks are a bit dodgy. Belay on the Senior Citizens terrace and descend Pan Grove.

FA: Keith Lockwood & John Smart, 20 May 2018

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
8 Boundary Rider

A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.

  1. 23m As for The Flue – the major chimney left of the grotto. Belay at pre-existing rap station.

  2. 12m Up steepening prow, past left side of roof, to another rap station, as for the easy top of Llareggub that no-one does anymore.

  3. 10m Easily to top of pinnacle for spectacular views. Descend north side of pinnacle into Pan Grove.

FA:

Trad 45m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
8 The Skeleton Coast

Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.

  1. 40m Climb clean rock on left side of the usually-dry little waterfall. Continue easily up and left to base of ridge.

  2. 20m Up to short orange corner, step right onto prow of ridge, and up easily to big ledge.

  3. 15m Bridge line 2m left of steep orange corner, and continue up nice wall on left side of the ridge to the big terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 27 May 2015

Trad 75m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
8 Water Wings

5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 7 Jun 2014

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
8 Spiral Staircase

Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

  1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

  2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

  3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

  4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

Trad 100m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
7 Stairway to Heaven

A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.

  1. 30m Mantelshelf onto the ledge and continue up and left to a nice flat ledge.

  2. 20m Up easily from the left end of the ledge for 3-4m. An unlikely traverse left around bulge at the horizontal break (nice exposure) leads to the base of a gulch. The enigmatic Duck Crag is up on the right.

  3. 40m Follow the shoulder all the way to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Keith Royce, Bob Ryan (alt leads), Ray Lassman & Miss Given, 16 Apr 2015

Trad 90m, 3
8 Sombrero

Not great.

Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it.

FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967

Trad 84m
7 South Pacific

The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall.

FA: Kurt Pitts & Keith Lockwood, 5 Apr 2015

Trad 35m
8 Long John Silver

Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015

Trad 30m
8 Pieces of Eight

The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag
7 Back by Three

Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
7 Heckle

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
8 Barefoot in the Park

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995

Trad 15m
7 A Walk In The Park

Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park.

FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
8 Teddy Bear's Picnic

A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off.

FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 23 Nov 2013

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
7 Spare Rib

Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 3 Sep 2016

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
8 Beer and Trembling

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

FA: Greg Pritxchard & Nicki Sunderland, 1992

Trad 10m
8 Falling Numbers

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993

Trad 20m
8 Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
7 Senile

Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'.

FA: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
8 Henry's Sample Is Missing

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

Trad 12m
8 Striding Ridge

Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.

  1. 40m Climb A Whale of a Time until level with the big terrace on the right. Step left and belay on the shoulder of the ridge.

  2. 25m Diagonally left to the base of the left-leaning line (the right-hand line is Court Jester – steep and loose).

  3. 25m Up left-leaning line, to finish steeply up right wall – highlighted by a classic mantelshelf and incut jugs.

  4. 20m Easily up ridge to terrace.

  5. 30m As for 5th pitch of Beau Geste.

FA: Stev Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 15 Aug 2016

Trad 140m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall
8 Cold Episode of Influenza

Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert.

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Heath Row Buttress
8 Heath Row

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

Trad 48m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
8 Touchwood

Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

  1. 35m (8) Potter up the easy-angled ground for about 15m until a corner leads up and can move around right onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to small stance above arete.

  2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and follow the flake (could extend the previous pitch to top of flake and belay level with ceiling of Fiddler On The Roof) . From the centre of the wall go up and slightly left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974

Trad 70m, 2
8 Lone Pine Corner

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
8 Better Not Peak

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue
8 Oompaloompa

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Trad 8m
8 The First Kiddy Climb

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed)

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Trad 8m
7 Mermaid Avenue

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area
8 Silver Bullet

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre
7 The Nude Balloon Dance

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch.

Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.

  1. 12m (7) Follow line to good ledge on right.

  2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, either climb easy wall on right or traverse easily right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of Serpent.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 30m, 2
8 Twinkle Twinkle

Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of 'Guiding Light'. Essentially provides an easier finish to 'He Certainly Is'. Start in the gully uphill from 'The Bishop’s Crook'.

  1. 18m Up nice grey wall opposite 'Guiding Light', with a step right 3-4m up. Belay on big ledge.

  2. 14m Short crack, then follow right-trending ramp to the base of the prominent corner.

  3. 18m Climb the shorter (and easier) corner on the right, then trend up right to top-out where Guiding Light finishes.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 24 Sep 2015

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Deacon Area
7 The Deviant

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre
8 The Devil's Advocate

Climb short crack 1 metre right of 'Exodus' to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the 'Salem' wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Trad 45m
8 Pete Made Us Do It

Space filler.

FA: Bendigo CAE Students, 1990

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Possum Rocks
7 Faggot

Wide corner crack right of 'Myles'.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Francine Gilfedder, 1975

Trad 18m
7 Central Corner

The right-facing corner to large blocks at the top.

Start: Start about 35 metres up the gully above 'Cuscus'.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Lesley Roberts, 2004

Trad 11m
7 Dame Edna

The series of lines to the roof, step right and up.

Start: Start several metres left of "Pygmy Possum".

FA: Iain Sedgman & Lesley Roberts, 2004

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Christmas Walls
8 Ode To Mistletoe

Start 3m left of 'First Noel'.

FA: Vince Waters, Noel Whiteside & Iain Sedgman., 2002

Trad 22m
8 Victoria C. Woodhull

Up the line to a left facing corner. Move left onto the slab and up avoiding the corner to finish up a crack/groove.

Start: A few metres left of Ode to 'Mistletoe' and about 4m right

of a large old conifer.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning., 2003

Trad 24m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
8 Sporus

Up groove. At halfway ledge cross over gully and finish steeply up wide crack on left.

Start: Start at groove on left side of face about 12-13 metres left of pinnacle. Inital S (don\'t get on 'Sundowner' by mistake).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1967

Trad 33m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Pop Wall
8 Country Cousin

Rubbishy corner just left of chimney to ledge. Finish up face-crack.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Western Creek Valley
7 Bonsai

The left-hand of two corners facing the valley.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Iain Sedgman, 1979

Trad 13m
7 Sunday School

Up the corner 7 metres right of 'E Pluribus Unum' and finish right.

FA: Noel Whiteside, Iain Sedgman & Leigh Penna, 1999

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs
8 Windy
Trad 35m
8 Spirits In The Sky

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Warden Wall
8 Photographers Solo

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock
8 Nose Hairs

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

Trad 8m
7 Ulcerations

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

Trad 6m
7 Walking Frame

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Trad 10m
7 Granpa's Y-Fronts

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Trad 8m
7 Pension Days

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mt Emu
7 Noddy Gets His Phil
Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff
8 Mustang
Trad 57m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls
8 Hop Hop For Cheese

You would have to be extremely desperate.

FA: Geelan, 1991

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero 4 Cornered Crag
8 Future Legend

The scrubby second corner, R of Waiting.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Trad 14m
8 Spaceball Ricochet

Past 'Lost Daze' and the unclimbed arete, on the small wall at the end of the cliff. Follow the obvious line.

FA: Hope & Heather Phillips, 1988

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Mount Zero West Walls
8 Baa

A face crack 5m L of the corner to a ledge below the overhang. Heavens knows what happens there.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling late., 1985

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Mt Zero roadside Crag
7 Easy Face

Between Big Chimney Corner and Volksgrenadier is a well trodden expanse of easy rock. Up anywhere. FA Unknown

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall
8 Bellerophon

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd & Margaret Brookes, 1974

Trad 20m
7 P Of P

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls The Green Wall
7 Gunigalg Gully

A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain.

FA: Recorded by John Petheram, 2000

Trad 100m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
8 Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection

The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners route with excellent rock, big features and good pro.

Start 3m L of Mission Over Tokyo (to avoid it's tricky starting crack). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo then step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully, and up the short right wall to the top.

FA: Andy Pollitt?, 2000

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall
7 Tartarus
Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Reprisal Wall
8 Wasted Dreams

The first line on the cliff.

Start: Start below and L of the line.

  1. 33m (8) Climb to a ledge, move R and past the bush on the R. Follow the line to below the overhang.

  2. 7m (8) Easily out L and up.

FA: Ceri Law, Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1990

Trad 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Tartarus Area
7 Tartarus

The crack, followed by a juggy wall.

Start: The L-most and widest of three cracks in the wall.

FA: Charles Gunst, Mark Carlton & Margaret Brookes, 1974

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Back Wall
7 Meeni
Trad 10m
8 Seaweed Pepper
Trad 10m
7 Chrisglen
Trad 9m
8 Sleepy Head
Trad 25m
7 Eat More Parsley

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

FA: Heather Phillips +1, 1985

Trad 22m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Hadrian's Wall
8 Flying Scotsman
Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Norms Face
8 Glennige
Trad 8m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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