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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
13 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

Trad 20m
13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
13 Trooper Two

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
13 Sir George

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0- V0 Problem
Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
13 Side Saddle Sally

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016

Trad 15m
13 Back Passage

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016

Trad 14m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
13 Mouse Trap

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979

Trad 45m
13 Rat Trap

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls
13 Kick the Ladder Down After You

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

FA: Leech & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
13 Zeppo

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
13 Hell For Leather

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
13 Muldoon
1 13 20m
2 12 22m
  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 42m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
13 The Frontier of Credibility

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
13 Bandwagon

The crack then slender buttress.

Start: Start just R of DM.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1978

Trad 35m
13 Organ Grinder

Good.

Start: Start at the buttress R of DM.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1973

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe
13 Holpyp

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of 'Ejaculation'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965

Trad 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
13 Horn Piece

Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 33m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
13 Hot Air Symposium

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

  1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

  2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008

Trad 35m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
13 Operation Leo

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
13 Pancho

Start: Start as for Quisling.

  1. 20m (13) Up Q to the pedestal then R into line and up this steeply to a corner. (Pancho Direct Start (19) takes the yellow groove 1m R of the pedestal).

  2. 28m (13) The corner then dodgy rock on the L.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (DS: Chris Baxter & Ed Neve), 1974

Trad 48m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
13 Sob Story

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
13 Cubbies Climb

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
13 Parity

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016

Trad 15m
13 whatever Tom decides to call it

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018

Trad
13 It's A Goer

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 8 Apr 2012

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
13 Slippery Dip

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford

Trad 25m
13 Fox on the Rocks

From the block step L and up frictional slab.

Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
13 Blue Toes

Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
13 Armpit

Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire) . Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
13 Stalagmite

The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966

Trad 36m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
13 Lawrence
1 9 35m
2 13 35m
3 13 30m

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start: Start between 'Dreadnought' Buttress and 'Dunes Buttress' at a shrubby rib.

  1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

  2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

  3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 100m, 3
13 Dunes Direct
1 13 30m
2 11 25m
3 10 22m
4 12 23m

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start: Tuck under the boulder left of 'Eskimo Nell' - One metre right of the start of Arab.

  1. 30m (13)

  2. 25m (11)

  3. 22m (10)

  4. 23m (12)

FA: Greg Pritchard & Simon Mentz - mid's, 1990

Trad 100m, 4
13 Eskimo Nell RHS

Not bad, Seems hard for the grade. Start around R from 'Eskimo Nell' in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of 'Eskimo Nell'

FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1966

Trad 30m
13 The Dark Side of the Dune

Start: Start as for 'Eskimo Nell RHS'

  1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then continue up ramp for some distance to belay below a corner, immediately right of the crack of 'Icecream Man'.

  2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

  3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

FA: Bill Andrews, Dave McLean & Barry Edwards, 1977

Trad 120m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
13 Petard

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little & Patrick Over, 1997

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0- The usual descent
Boulder 5m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V0- High traverse
Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V0- V0-

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V0- 8

Up jugs by pockets

Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
13 Ivan

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 14m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
13 Lock-up

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
13 R Seneca

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

Trad 77m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
13 Kestrel

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.

If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.

FA: Doug Hatt & Ian Guild, 1964

Trad 50m
13 Pegasus

Another combination route. OK at the grade if you're in the area. Start up 'Phoenix' until past the bulge on the arete to the left and then follow the arete ('Problem Child') to the top of the buttress. Abseil down 'Nakablitz' (40m).

Trad 48m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
13 Ariadne

Provides a good 4 pitch climb largely independent of Syrinx incorporating Clive’s magnificent traverse on Syrinx Direct (odd name for a traverse). There are only two short sections shared with Syrinx. As a whole, it offers good clean climbing, except for 10 metres of easy, somewhat mossy ground on the second pitch. That, as they say, will clean up with traffic, at which time we can probably add an additional star. Rope-drag can be a big issue, potentially destroying the fun on the traverse and there are many ways to slice and dice the pitch lengths and belays for pitches 2 and 3 to minimise this. This description takes a long, fairly direct second pitch finishing at an uncommon belay point. This allows for a shorter third pitch and the anchors are pretty straightforward so it’s quite an efficient option. Take lots of alpine draws or slings as most runners on pitches 2 and 3 will need a sling. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of Syrinx, as for The Lute.

  1. 35m (13) Climb the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. From the pod at 18 metres continue straight up the steep thin line, ignoring the mossy right-hand line. Belay 2m left of a large, precariously perched boulder (The Lute traverses right below this boulder to its rap anchor).

  2. 45m (11) Climb the line directly above, keeping on the left after the first few moves, to the large overhang at 10m. Traverse right immediately below the overhang into the hanging corner. Follow the corner until it merges with the scrubby line to the right. Easy but mossy for a few metres up the corner to bushes. Step left and up 3 metres to the long ledge on Syrinx. Rather than belay here, climb up right to the short corner with the arrow marking. Belay on the right at the top of the corner on the narrow ledge.

  3. 30m (8) Pull up the little wall above the belay then step left and up, moving a little left until level with the ledge on the right which is the belay for Headbanger. Now go left and up past a big bucket hold and a U-bolt, moving left through the exposed orange rock to the prominent guano-stained ledge (long sling on runners on the guano ledge). Continue left and up across the top of the major corner (airy) to a small ledge on Sunday Best. Awesome easy traverse but probably not suitable for beginners.

  4. 20m (7) Continue left past hollow block to evade the roof and then up to join Pitch 7 of Syrinx to finish. Scramble off as for that climb.

FA:

Mixed trad 120m, 4, 1
13 The Lute Original

An old climb which is just too vegetated and chossy.

Start as for The Lute but at 18m continue up the mossy vegetated line for two 35m pitches to join Syrinx at it's third belay. Finish as for Syrinx.

FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965

Trad 150m, 4
13 The Lute

This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 18m continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 35 metres, traverse right below a large balanced boulder to ledge and rap anchor(35m rap).

Note: Don't touch the boulder, you should cross below it. It would have been better if the new rap anchors had been placed in the line rather than on the traverse.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2006

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
13 Cunrack

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

FA: Andrew Smith & Glen Devereaux., 1964

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall
13 Undergraduate

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Trad 90m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
13 Spider

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall
13 Rock Soff

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 58m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall
13 Defector

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
13 Social Comment

Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.

Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.

  1. 15m (13) V crack then reachy step L to ledge. Belay on the L.

  2. 22m (13) Up R to flake (hollow but avoidable), up L to ledge, R to balancey finish.

FA: Roger Murphy & Neil Philips, 1977

Trad 37m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
13 Jezebel
1 13 35m
2 8 15m
3 13 36m

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant.

Start: Start as for "Hurricane Lamp Cracks".

  1. 35m (13) Up "Hurricane Lamp Cracks", stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance. Take care with a large loose block on the right here as you prepare to start the next pitch.

  2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

  3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace, ending at double bolt belay. It is possible to abseil or walk off from here (and most people do).

Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...

  1. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

  2. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of "French Crack".

FA: Chris Baxter & Darryl Carr, 1967

Trad 86m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
13 Beat Route

Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up.

Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise".

FA: Chris Baxter, Joy Fletcher & Greg Garnham, 1982

Trad 40m
13 Default

The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero.

FA: Mark Shelton, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1976

Trad 42m
13 The Black Pearl

Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 2 Apr 2015

Trad 35m
13 Blackbeard

Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall
13 Dotage

Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 20m
13 Hugh Goes West

Climb flake and wall above.

Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
13 R Rush of Blood

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979

Trad 18m
13 Rush of Blood Direct Finish
Trad 18m
13 Sheckle

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall
13 America After the Bomb

Direct line up and across 'Altered States'.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 17m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
13 Long Hair And Great Coats

A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish.

Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress.

Climb up to and through the hole between the chockstone and the face. Up shallow black corner to old fixed peg. Continue straight up steep wall which is slightly run-out.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
13 Gruntled

Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 5 Jan 2019

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
13 Hillary's Dog

Start: Short line R of IBC.

FA: Loughran & Sleeman, 1996

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
13 Golden Apples

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

  1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

  2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

  3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 21 Dec 2013

Trad 95m, 3
13 Tiptoe Corner

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

FA: Darryl Carr & Bernie Lyons, 1967

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
13 Barren Waste
Trad 170m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
13 Joyride

Another climb superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood & Kathy Burman (alt), 1975

Trad 100m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall
13 Bolero

Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson, 1966

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
13 Bung

Looks great but is just OK.

Begin up Tale Of Woe then step right and follow sinuous line up and slightly left on wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug & Beryl Palmen, 1977

Trad 45m
13 The Met

Good corner.

V-corner a few metres right of Goonkachoong.

FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg, 1984

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall
13 Unauthorised Mice

The right arete of the orange wall uphill from Tea is Full of Good Things.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jess Hartridge, 7 May 2016

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Kachoong Area
13 A Taste of Bin Laden

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
13 It's Sausage

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

FA: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 Apr 2016

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall
13 Back Roads

Climb the middle of the wall between Sidetrack and Hump the Bluey.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Paul Kinnison, 20 Oct 2018

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Bonsai Buttress
13 Weak Daze

On the back of the buttress (ie South facing). Climb the crack between the main wall and the detached block to the V cave, step left and through the overhang.

FA: Dan Flynn & Chris Jillard, 28 Sep 2018

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Winterset Wall
13 Courting Daze

Crack just right of 'Dismember'

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1982

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre
13 Sky Pilot Direct Finish

After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 1998

Trad 20m
13 Sky Pilot

An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters.

Start: Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap, 1983

Trad 35m
13 The Baptism

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now 'Wee Skerrick' though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start: Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of 'Acapulco Gold'.

  1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

  2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

Trad 30m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area
13 Lucifer

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre
13 R Belltower

Chimneying to good wall climbing. Easy bridging up deep chimney left of 'Beelzebub' with poor protection. Now finish up the centre of the wall above.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967

Trad 40m
13 Bostok

Scramble to the top of ramp. Now go up short crack and scoop, trending right, and then back left and through overlap.

Start: Start at a ramp running up diagonally right 12 metres left of "Belltower" and just left of a large conifer growing against the cliff.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Tony Marian & Tony Dignan, 1977

Trad 40m
13 Mason's Apron

Nice climbing, just avoid the hollow rock at the start.

Start: Start in the middle of the wall left of "Exodus", behind little pinnacle.

FA: Dick Evans & John Stone, 1979

Trad 24m
13 Leather Bound

Quite good moves on the top flake. Start as for Penny Dreadful or at the next seam to the right. Up to the blocky ledge then take the flake-crack right of the Penny Dreadful corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Watling, 1984

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Fox Rocks
13 Dead Fox

Follow a series of little corners just left of steep ground.

Start: Start towards left end of lower tier, immediately left of small cave and about 8 metres left of a major V-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Francine Gilfedder, 1981

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Christmas Walls
13 13 Norman Knights

Doesn't look too bad.

About 100 metres left of the 'Swingtime' gully is a squarish gully with two chimney lines at the back. On the right wall of this gully is a diagonal line.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning., 2003

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
13 Kiwi Usurper

The next 6 routes are actually above Cream Between.. Either walk up the descent at the far left of the wall (you'll approach the routes in order) or scramble up from Sundowner (you'll approach the routes backwards)

Thin, R-leading crack L of RR to ledge. Finish as for that climb.

FA: Murray Cullen & Mike Ashton, 1995

Trad 30m
13 Rover's Revenge

Middle of short wall (with roof at half height) round L of 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen' past tree to ledge. Wide crack.

FA: Paul & Brian Williams., 1995

Trad 28m
13 Mad Dogs and Englishmen
  1. 15m (13) Wide, overhanging crack 3 m L of corner at L end of recessed wall L of Winchester Cathedral. Line to ledge.

  2. 5m (-) Wall.

FA: Brian Williams, Mike Ashton & Paul Williams, 1995

Trad 20m, 2
13 Sundowner

Lovely-looking climb.

Start: Start at clear initial S just right of a scrappy corner.

FA: Alec Campbell & Ray Lassman, 1967

Trad 30m
13 Cactus Fuctus

Scrappy. Used to get a star but I'm not sure about that.

Start: Start as for 'Dilettante' at ramp below guano patch.

  1. 33m (13) Go up 9 metres to the formidable orange wall. Now climb second pitch of Heart Full Of Soul(!), finishing up a crack in right wall of corner.

  2. 10m (-) Pull onto wall above and move diagonally up right to a small alcove.

  3. 17m (-) Ove bulge directly above and go up left to exit up tricky corner on right side of summit prow.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974

Trad 60m, 3
13 The Seven Year Itch

Supposed to be pleasant face-climbing.

Start: Start at in indistinct groove 1.5m right of a sharp, right-facing corner (Cancer).

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Trad 45m
13 Sour Grapes

An awful approach leads to a good corner high on the climb. It would be better to traverse into the terrace from the descent gully and avoid the start.

Start: Start by finding a conifer growing against the mossy cliff about 30 metres down left of the 'Swill' wall. There\'s actually a set of 3 conifers against the wall at what seems to be the correct place and another tree 5 metres to the right.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Trad 50m
13 The Ill Wind

Not much good.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Chris Dewhirst, 1973

Trad 30m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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