|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|13||★ Sexless Sue
Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.
FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970
|13||Sue's Crutchless Knickers
Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.
Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.
FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall|
|13||★ Trooper Two
Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.
FA: Peter Martin, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|13|| Sir George
Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.
FA: John Fisher, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V0-|| V0 Problem
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
|13||Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.
FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|13||★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.
FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.
FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|13||Kick the Ladder Down After You
Takes a line of jugs.
Start: Start 1m left of TLL.
FA: Leech & Pritchard, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall|
Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|13||★★ Hell For Leather
As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.
Start: Start 10m R of T.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
1 13 20m
2 12 22m
Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
|13||The Frontier of Credibility
The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.
Start: Start R of LS.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
The crack then slender buttress.
Start: Start just R of DM.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1978
Start: Start at the buttress R of DM.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1973
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of 'Ejaculation'.
FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
|13||★★ Horn Piece
Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.
FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
|13||Hot Air Symposium
Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.
Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
The small crack/corner system on the L.
Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.
FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
Start: Start as for Quisling.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (DS: Chris Baxter & Ed Neve), 1974
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|13||★ Sob Story
The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.
Start: Start R of P.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
Tricky start then into the wide crack.
Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.
FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016
|13||whatever Tom decides to call it
Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.
FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018
|13||It's A Goer
Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.
FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 8 Apr 2012
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford
|13||Fox on the Rocks
From the block step L and up frictional slab.
Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.
FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress|
Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.
Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire) . Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall|
The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.
Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress|
1 9 35m
2 13 35m
3 13 30m
Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.
Start: Start between 'Dreadnought' Buttress and 'Dunes Buttress' at a shrubby rib.
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965
|13||★★ Dunes Direct
1 13 30m
2 11 25m
3 10 22m
4 12 23m
A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.
Start: Tuck under the boulder left of 'Eskimo Nell' - One metre right of the start of Arab.
FA: Greg Pritchard & Simon Mentz - mid's, 1990
|13||Eskimo Nell RHS
Not bad, Seems hard for the grade. Start around R from 'Eskimo Nell' in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of 'Eskimo Nell'
FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1966
|13||The Dark Side of the Dune
Start: Start as for 'Eskimo Nell RHS'
FA: Bill Andrews, Dave McLean & Barry Edwards, 1977
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area|
|13||A Snortiblog in Paradise
Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.
Start: Start at Ali's.
FA: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress|
Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.
Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.
FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little & Patrick Over, 1997
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder|
|V0-||★ The usual descent
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder|
|V0-||★ High traverse
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder|
On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder|
Up jugs by pockets
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area|
The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.
Start: Start just R of A.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face|
This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall|
Has a lot of loose blocks.
The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!
Start 7m R of BT.
Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.
FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall|
A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.
If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.
FA: Doug Hatt & Ian Guild, 1964
Another combination route. OK at the grade if you're in the area. Start up 'Phoenix' until past the bulge on the arete to the left and then follow the arete ('Problem Child') to the top of the buttress. Abseil down 'Nakablitz' (40m).
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area|
Provides a good 4 pitch climb largely independent of Syrinx incorporating Clive’s magnificent traverse on Syrinx Direct (odd name for a traverse). There are only two short sections shared with Syrinx. As a whole, it offers good clean climbing, except for 10 metres of easy, somewhat mossy ground on the second pitch. That, as they say, will clean up with traffic, at which time we can probably add an additional star. Rope-drag can be a big issue, potentially destroying the fun on the traverse and there are many ways to slice and dice the pitch lengths and belays for pitches 2 and 3 to minimise this. This description takes a long, fairly direct second pitch finishing at an uncommon belay point. This allows for a shorter third pitch and the anchors are pretty straightforward so it’s quite an efficient option. Take lots of alpine draws or slings as most runners on pitches 2 and 3 will need a sling. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of Syrinx, as for The Lute.
|120m, 4, 1|
|13||★ The Lute Original
An old climb which is just too vegetated and chossy.
Start as for The Lute but at 18m continue up the mossy vegetated line for two 35m pitches to join Syrinx at it's third belay. Finish as for Syrinx.
FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965
|13||★ The Lute
This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 18m continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 35 metres, traverse right below a large balanced boulder to ledge and rap anchor(35m rap).
Note: Don't touch the boulder, you should cross below it. It would have been better if the new rap anchors had been placed in the line rather than on the traverse.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2006
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag|
The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.
FA: Andrew Smith & Glen Devereaux., 1964
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall|
Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress|
Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.
Start: At north shoulder of buttress.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall|
Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,
or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall|
Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.
FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle|
|13||★ Social Comment
Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.
Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.
FA: Roger Murphy & Neil Philips, 1977
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall|
1 13 35m
2 8 15m
3 13 36m
A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant.
Start: Start as for "Hurricane Lamp Cracks".
Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...
FA: Chris Baxter & Darryl Carr, 1967
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area|
Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up.
Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise".
FA: Chris Baxter, Joy Fletcher & Greg Garnham, 1982
The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero.
FA: Mark Shelton, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1976
|13||The Black Pearl
Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 2 Apr 2015
Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall|
Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985
|13||Hugh Goes West
Climb flake and wall above.
Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area|
|13 R||★★ Rush of Blood
Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979
|13||★★ Rush of Blood Direct Finish
The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.
FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall|
|13||America After the Bomb
Direct line up and across 'Altered States'.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress|
|13||★ Long Hair And Great Coats
A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish.
Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress.
Climb up to and through the hole between the chockstone and the face. Up shallow black corner to old fixed peg. Continue straight up steep wall which is slightly run-out.
FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully|
Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge).
FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 5 Jan 2019
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area|
Start: Short line R of IBC.
FA: Loughran & Sleeman, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area|
In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.
FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 21 Dec 2013
Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.
FA: Darryl Carr & Bernie Lyons, 1967
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face|
Another climb superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.
FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood & Kathy Burman (alt), 1975
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall|
Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.
FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson, 1966
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area|
Looks great but is just OK.
Begin up Tale Of Woe then step right and follow sinuous line up and slightly left on wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug & Beryl Palmen, 1977
V-corner a few metres right of Goonkachoong.
FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall|
The right arete of the orange wall uphill from Tea is Full of Good Things.
FA: Wendy Eden & Jess Hartridge, 7 May 2016
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Kachoong Area|
|13||A Taste of Bin Laden
Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area|
Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.
FA: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 Apr 2016
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall|
Climb the middle of the wall between Sidetrack and Hump the Bluey.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Paul Kinnison, 20 Oct 2018
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Bonsai Buttress|
On the back of the buttress (ie South facing). Climb the crack between the main wall and the detached block to the V cave, step left and through the overhang.
FA: Dan Flynn & Chris Jillard, 28 Sep 2018
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Winterset Wall|
|13||★ Courting Daze
Crack just right of 'Dismember'
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre|
|13||Sky Pilot Direct Finish
After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.
FA: Bert Levy (solo), 1998
An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters.
Start: Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap, 1983
|13||★ The Baptism
The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.
The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now 'Wee Skerrick' though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.
Start: Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of 'Acapulco Gold'.
FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area|
Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre|
|13 R||★ Belltower
Chimneying to good wall climbing. Easy bridging up deep chimney left of 'Beelzebub' with poor protection. Now finish up the centre of the wall above.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967
Scramble to the top of ramp. Now go up short crack and scoop, trending right, and then back left and through overlap.
Start: Start at a ramp running up diagonally right 12 metres left of "Belltower" and just left of a large conifer growing against the cliff.
FA: Phillip Armstrong, Tony Marian & Tony Dignan, 1977
|13||★ Mason's Apron
Nice climbing, just avoid the hollow rock at the start.
Start: Start in the middle of the wall left of "Exodus", behind little pinnacle.
FA: Dick Evans & John Stone, 1979
|13||★ Leather Bound
Quite good moves on the top flake. Start as for Penny Dreadful or at the next seam to the right. Up to the blocky ledge then take the flake-crack right of the Penny Dreadful corner.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Watling, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Fox Rocks|
Follow a series of little corners just left of steep ground.
Start: Start towards left end of lower tier, immediately left of small cave and about 8 metres left of a major V-corner.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Francine Gilfedder, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Christmas Walls|
|13||13 Norman Knights
Doesn't look too bad.
About 100 metres left of the 'Swingtime' gully is a squarish gully with two chimney lines at the back. On the right wall of this gully is a diagonal line.
FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning., 2003
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom|
The next 6 routes are actually above Cream Between.. Either walk up the descent at the far left of the wall (you'll approach the routes in order) or scramble up from Sundowner (you'll approach the routes backwards)
Thin, R-leading crack L of RR to ledge. Finish as for that climb.
FA: Murray Cullen & Mike Ashton, 1995
Middle of short wall (with roof at half height) round L of 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen' past tree to ledge. Wide crack.
FA: Paul & Brian Williams., 1995
|13||Mad Dogs and Englishmen
FA: Brian Williams, Mike Ashton & Paul Williams, 1995
Start: Start at clear initial S just right of a scrappy corner.
FA: Alec Campbell & Ray Lassman, 1967
|13||★ Cactus Fuctus
Scrappy. Used to get a star but I'm not sure about that.
Start: Start as for 'Dilettante' at ramp below guano patch.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974
|13||★ The Seven Year Itch
Supposed to be pleasant face-climbing.
Start: Start at in indistinct groove 1.5m right of a sharp, right-facing corner (Cancer).
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973
An awful approach leads to a good corner high on the climb. It would be better to traverse into the terrace from the descent gully and avoid the start.
Start: Start by finding a conifer growing against the mossy cliff about 30 metres down left of the 'Swill' wall. There\'s actually a set of 3 conifers against the wall at what seems to be the correct place and another tree 5 metres to the right.
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973
|13||The Ill Wind
Not much good.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Chris Dewhirst, 1973