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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

Trad 20m
11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

Trad 20m
11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
11 Hail Spagnum

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
11 Right Hand Variant

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
11 Fireman Don't Got Convictions

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989

Trad 45m
11 Bottoms Up

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016

Trad 14m
11 Wash Your Hands

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Jul 2016

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
11 Gummo

Line 1m R of Groucho.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
11 Lizard Procrastination

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

  1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

  2. (11) Up

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Guild, 1964

Trad 50m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
11 Agamemnon
  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle
11 Tubby Tuba

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1966

Trad 24m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
11 Harpsichord

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Piccolo Pipe
11 Piccolo
1 11 18m
2 11 15m

'Piccolo Pipe' The second pipe with the narrow front.

  1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the 'pipe' past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

  2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into 'Organ Pipes Gully' to get off.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965

Trad 33m, 2
11 Piccolo Direct
Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
11 Didgeridoo

On the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe. Veers left from 'Horn Piece' near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

Start: As for 'Horn Piece'.

FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
11 Deflated

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

  1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

  2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

FA: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981

Trad 35m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
11 Pedro

Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Start: Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start).

FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 36m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
11 Heatherbell

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1993

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
11 Freckled Duck

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of 'Tres Hard'.

Trad 26m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
11 Red Parrot Chasm

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Trad 55m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
11 Transylvania

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch (incorrectly marked in topo) so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy.

Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning aganst the cliff.

  1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Fiona Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1999

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 1
11 Vampire Arete

This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut.

From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andy Schmutter, Steve Findlay & Ken Wilkinson, 31 Jan 2017

Trad 40m
11 Dracula
1 11 25m
2 8 15m

Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

Start: Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block.

  1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

FA: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965

Trad 40m, 2
11 Red Parrot Jism

This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
11 Fear of Praying

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Roger Murphy, 1976

Trad 33m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor
11 Bluff Minor

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 55m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
11 Open Sesame

A pleasant link from Fliners Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, and 3 or 4 metres right of the slimy access corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Matisse, Amy & PLC girls, 23 Nov 2016

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
11 Blockbuster

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: 1964

Trad 30m
11 Whiskers

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & ANdrew Smith, 1966

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
11 The Lost Chord

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Felicity Rousseaux, 1993

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
11 Eagle Cleft
1 2 30m
2 11 30m
3 10 30m
4 10 28m

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

  1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

  2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

  3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

  4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 120m, 4
11 Phoenix

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

  1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

  2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

FA: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 98m, 3
11 The Eighth Direct
  1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

  2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

  3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

FA: John McLean & Richard Schmidt.., 1966

Trad 96m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
11 The Dribble
1 8 35m
2 11 20m
3 10 50m
4 7 15m

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

  1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

  2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

  3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

  4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve Mid 70s., 2000

Trad 120m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
11 Trapeze

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
11 Bastress

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

FA: Rod Harris & Dave Neilson., 1967

Trad 36m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
11 R.I.P. Sludge

This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top.

Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Suzie Frost & Dave Clarke, 1993

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
11 Sensible Shoes

Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
11 Gwen

Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney.

FA: Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1981

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
11 The Slot

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

  1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

  2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

FA: Peter Jackson, Doug Angus. Alternate finish : Ian Guild & Doug Hatt., 1964

Trad 100m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
11 Malcolm’s Bent Friends

A gentle introduction to the joys of slabbing. Take a selection of cams, bent or otherwise.

Start right of Panzer at clean streak – Battle of the Bulge.

  1. 45m Up streak for about 20m, move left along ledge and up slab on horizontal slots to prominent horizontal orange bulge. Amble left and climb last few moves of Panzer to terrace.

  2. 45m From left end of terrace climb up to little corner about 3m left of Joyride. At top of corner step left and climb straight up nice black rock, gradually easing, to terrace. (This pitch is midway between the original versions of Chameleon and Joyride.)

  3. 15m Two short walls.

  4. 15m (Optional) Short wall, then steep juggy rib above, finishing up crack on the right.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 21 Dec 2016

Trad 120m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
11 Trouble With Lichen

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

FA: Bill Andrews & GIT course member, 1981

Trad 45m
11 Harlequin Cracks

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely. BIRD TAKING UP RESIDENCE 9 sept 2018, stay off until nesting over

  1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

  2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

  3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr., 1966

Trad 80m, 3
11 Salami
1 11 36m
2 9 15m
3 10 30m
  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

  3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large,scrubby ledge and undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965

Trad 81m, 3
11 Salami Direct Finish

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

Climb steep cracks and corner above the first belay.

FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1965

Trad 27m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall
11 Most persecuted politician in history

Up easy crack in centre of wall, cross left over I will build a great wall to next easy crack.

FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017

Trad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North PB Gully
11 Banjo Opera

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Intrepid Gully
11 Intrepid

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall
11 Redback

Appropriate that these two should be new route hunting near JLYF.

Start: Start right of 'Just Like Your Father'.- I assume this is the obvious corner on the right end of the wall

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre
11 The Bishop

Start: Start as for "Revelations"

  1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

  2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

FA: Garry Sudholz & Rod Sutherland, 1967

Trad 50m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area
11 Armageddon

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Trad 13m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre
11 Bangla Desh

Worthless. Has lots of loose blocks as well.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1973

Trad 36m
11 Penny Dreadful

Start: Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of 'The Archbishop'.

  1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge.

  2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Gen Corcoran & Phill Hay, 1973

Trad 40m, 2
11 The Archbishop

Start: Start at the painted initial

  1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this to ledge.

  2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

FA: Geoff Uebergang & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Trad 48m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Possum Rocks
11 Myles

Climb the wide crack which is the major feature of this outcrop and is clearly visible from the road.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Watson, 1975

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
11 Leprechaun

Some nice moves but a bit scrappy.

Right arete of pinnacle above and left of Zorba. Start about 10 metres up left of 'Sundowner' at clear initial L. Roped descent off back of pinnacle necessary.

FA: Alec Campbell & John Veasey, 1967

Trad 30m
11 Mr Crab

Looks quite OK.

Start: Start at blocky groove 1.5 metres left of Couer De Lion. Faint initials MC.

FA: Chris baxter, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1973

Trad 48m
11 Beginners' Luck

Line with great rock on small wall at head of descent gully.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1973

Trad 12m
11 Scarper

Up the curving crack. Finish back up right.

Start: Star at the curving crack on the left (east) side of the buttress. There\'s a small cave just left of the start.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins & Jane Wilkinson, 1983

Trad 13m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Deep South
11 Cotton Balls

Start just right of the gully and climb narrow east face of buttress.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1979

Trad 15m
11 Doodad

The prominent corner and roof several metres right of 'Oldies But Boldies', exiting right at roof.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Pop Wall
11 As Tears Go By

Corner crack to narrow chimney on right side of buttress. Exit on wall just below chockstone.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968

Trad 21m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Bordel Buttress
11 Strumpet

This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish.

FA: Peter Watling & Dave Asquith, 1985

Trad 25m
11 Aunt Glad

This is the corner 8m right of Bridget.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Iain Sedgman, 1977

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Crows Nest
11 Farewell To Arms
Trad 70m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Eyrie
11 The Windhover Direct Finish
Trad 37m
11 Vulture
Trad 88m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls
11 Pied Oystercatcher Head Stabilization

The name is much more interesting than the climb.

FA: Megan Rush, Burnett & Geelan, 1991

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero 4 Cornered Crag
11 Lost Daze

The fourth corner.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1984

Trad 14m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall
11 Rungwalk

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn & Gordon Bedford, 2000

Trad 21m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Cloud Cuckoo Land
11 R Heat Haze

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1994

Trad 20m
11 White Rabbit

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

FA: Ray Lassman & Kieran Loughran, 2006

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls The Grey Wall
11 The Crank

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

  1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

  2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

  3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

  4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

  5. 30m (-) Easily up.

FA: Ian Guild & John McLean(var) Easter., 1965

Trad 110m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall
11 M4 Icarus

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

  1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

  2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

FA: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970

Aid 61m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Closed Main Wall
11 Milk Armour
Trad 15m
11 Waxman

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

FA: Stan Manley + 2, 1979

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Calcutti Crag
11 Left Right Out

The arete

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bird Wall
11 Escape From Alcatraz
Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Noah's Ark
11 Pump That Body
Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools
11 Stock Man

Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'.

Start: Start just L of 'Handles'.

FA: Mathew Alen & Aidan Banfield, 1989

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bowler Boulder
11 Don't Blink

The line of choss L of RE.

FFA: Steven Barnett, 1988

Trad 7m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Callitris Gully
11 True Quality
Trad 20m
11 Boy Toys
Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Scout Cliff
11 Brownsea
Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Brownie Buttress
11 Hey There Little School Girl
Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley The Last Bastion
11 The Glum Chum

The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

Trad 12m
11 Wish You Were Here

4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

Trad 11m
11 Momentary Lapse Of Reason

3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start.

FA: Mark Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
11 In The Flesh

3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack.

FA: Jarrod Smith & Michael Pirzas, 1988

Trad 11m
11 Comfortably Numb

Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Old Campsite Area
11 Wild Honey
Trad 12m
11 Rockclimbing Smurf
Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Orange Blossom Wall
11 Paperclip

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

  1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

  2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

  3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ben Sandilands (var leads), 1973

Trad 91m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted)
VB- - 10 Unknown/Unticked - to delete

FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) Clicke Wall
11 M2 Piracy

M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.

Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.

FA: Roger Caffin, 1966

Aid 24m, 2
11 Stepping Stones

Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1997

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) Northern Caves (aka Kindergarten)
11 Stepping Stones
Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Expedition Crag
11 Loose Chocks
Trad 15m
11 A-climb-atizing
Trad 10m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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