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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 52m
12 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Trad 20m
12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
12 What Have the Romans Done for Us?

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
12 Welease Wodger

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Welease Witchard

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Incontinentia Buttocks

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
12 Left Hand Variant

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977

Trad 24m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
12 What's My Motivation

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
12 Nempnett Thrubwell

Start: Opposite VIMH.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Grope Lane

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Dance of the Flaming Anus
Trad 10m
12 Uncle Fistula
Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
12 Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989

Trad 14m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
12 Pied Piper

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
12 Groucho

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
12 Clytemnaestra

The slick chimney.

Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.

FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1964

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
12 Laughing Stock

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 12m
12 Breeding Stock

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Pual Hoskins, 1995

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
12 Castrati

The arete.

Start: Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of 'Organ Pipes Gully'.

FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1987

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
12 Fugue

Another gully.

FA: Bernie Lyons & Steve Craddock., 1965

Trad 63m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
12 Bag Pipes

A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Jul 2017

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
12 Shit View

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard., 1995

Trad 15m
12 Great View

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Trad 15m
12 Keeping the Tailend Off Strike

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

FA: Pritchard, Lattanzio & Hoskins, 1995

Trad 15m
12 Mr. Blobby

Start: The left most line.

FA: Hoskins, Lattanzio & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam
12 Rush

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

FA: Richard Smith, Eric Laidlaw & Greg Pritchard, 2001

Trad 15m
12 With an F!

The arete left of 'Duck Off'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall
12 Dhole

Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking.

Start: Start as for C.

FA: Digby Gotts & Peter Watling, 1970

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
12 Please Be Kind

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

FA: Allen Hope & Bill Andrews, 2000

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall
12 Channel Vision

The central crack.

Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall.

FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
12 A Little Ray of Sunshine

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
12 Lloyd Williams' Nose

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
12 Mortality

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress
12 Past & Present

This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face.

FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 8 Mar 2012

Trad 11m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
12 Zorro

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 12m
12 Faith

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Rob Taylor, 1968

Trad 18m
12 Prudity

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

FA: Ray Lassman & Keith Lockwood, 1981

Trad 18m
12 Treachery

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
12 Humpty Dumpty

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
12 Pure and Simple

Supped to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
12 Eat Your Greens

Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 15 Dec 2015

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
12 Josie's Climb

1 (30m) 12: Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory to rap anchor on ledge. 2 (20m) 11: Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

Start: Start at the left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the 'Reaper Buttress' page).

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

FA: Josie Ley & late 80s, 2000

Trad 50m, 2
12 Native Companion

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Sonia Jones, 1989

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
12 Troglodytes

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

  1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

  2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

  3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

  4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 4 Mar 2017

Trad 120m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
12 Dunes
1 136m
2 6m
3 12 40m
4 27m
5 10m

The original version.

Start: Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right).

  1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

  2. 6m (-) Up the chimney. (In Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman skipped the pitch 2 chimney by going straight up from the p1 slabs, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (grade 9)).

  3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

  4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

  5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 220m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
12 Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Mixed trad 30m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
12 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up 'Orpheus').

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

Trad 80m, 4
12 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 66m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress
12 Bard
1 12 43m
2 12 12m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m
5 12 30m

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965

Trad 120m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
12 Hawk
1 10 46m
2 12 25m
3 12 30m
4 25m

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

  1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

  2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

  3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

  4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Bennett & Greg Martin (alt), 1964

Trad 130m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
12 The Flue

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholz., 1967

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Pan Grove
12 Golden Oldies

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Jack Lewis, 1986

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
12 Point the Bone

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall
12 Goanna

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

Trad 60m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall
12 Come Clean

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

FA: Jack Lewis & Michael Persin, 1995

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
12 Hurricane Lamp Cracks
1 12 25m
2 11 20m
3 11 20m
4 11 10m
5 8 43m

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible.

Start: Start at the chimney 7 metres right of "Five Fingered Mary".

  1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

  2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

  3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

  4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

  5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of "Spiral Staircase" and may be split as for that climb.

FA: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 120m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
12 Shitty Nappies

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992

Trad 15m
12 Lights in the Sky

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 15m
12 Bites in the Pie

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag
12 Home for Tea

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall
12 Prendergast

Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up.

Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Doug Palmen, 1977

Trad 15m
12 Marcia’s Route

A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Baker's Delight.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Marcia, 2006

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
12 Hendor

Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless.

Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats".

Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top.

FA: Daryl Carr & Ken Readwin, 1967

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
12 Sweet Bugger All

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984

Trad 30m
12 R The Protege

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 50m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
12 Mentor

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1977

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
12 Moonlighting

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

FA: Recorded : Annette Halley, Jenni Martin, Dave Kitching & Marian Lester, 1992

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
12 Chookfest 93

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh & Annette Jone, 1993

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area
12 Artemis

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

  1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

  2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

FA: Pete Holmes, Jack Jane & Colin Hoad, 2 Jun 2017

Trad 80m, 2
12 Siren Direct Finish
1 4 25m
2 8 35m
3 8 35m
4 12 50m
5 11 25m
6 10m

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

  1. 25m (4) As for Siren

  2. 35m (8) As for Siren

  3. 35m (8) As for Siren

  4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

  5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

FA: Ian Guild & Doug Hatt.., 1964

Trad 180m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
12 Watchtower Chimney
1 12 45m
2 8 17m
3 12 31m
4 8 18m

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

  1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

  2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

  3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

  4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 1965

Mixed trad 110m, 4, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower
12 A Rack of Phobias

The right arete of 'Arachnus'. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations.

Trad 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
12 Panzer

Start: Directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.

  1. 40m (12) Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, travers delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner. Small gear essential to protect this pitch

  2. 25m (12) Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower.

  3. 30m (12) Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.

FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1965

Trad 95m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
12 Cheshire Cat

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

Trad 22m
12 Alley Cat

Mangy.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruce Osborne, 1966

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
12 The CIown

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

  1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

  2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

  3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth.., 1968

Trad 78m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
12 Court Jester

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

  1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (-) The crack above.

  3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

  4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965

Trad 100m, 5
12 Last Remake

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

Crack about 10 metres left of Beau Geste, avoiding top overhang to right (dirty)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven & Robert Knox, 1980

Trad 25m
12 XXXX

Similar to Bung.

Start as for Bung but after stepping right continue straight up the wall rather than following line.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983

Trad 45m
12 Where The F Are We

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

  3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

  4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

  5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

Set by Geoff, 4 Apr 2013

FFA: 4 Apr 2013

FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason & Holly, 4 Apr 2013

Trad 97m, 4
12 Happy-go-Lucky

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

  1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

  2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

  4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984

Trad 91m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall
12 Gardener's Delight

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

  1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

  2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt), Daryl Carr & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 60m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
12 Whimsical

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

  1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

  2. 15m (12) V-chimney

  3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968

Trad 60m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Kachoong Area
12 Monkey

Looks awful.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

Trad 24m
12 Taliban Airways

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Nameless Gully
12 Devil’s Food Cake

The blocky staircase-like feature that leads right and up. Shares finish with Kueh Lapis. Walk off descent.

FFA: madeleine Woods, Jae Zhong & muki woods, 12 Jul 2018

Trad 8m
12 Declan the Crab

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the left side of this wall.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue
12 The Police Gospel Quartet

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue' then up right arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Manatee Fair

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 20m
12 Jonathon Livingstone Baitfish

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North PB Gully
12 Is The Pope a Catholic

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Hum Terrace
12 From the Ridiculous to the Sublime

The next three routes start from the ledge above Menagerie. Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Windy Buttress
12 Cantaloupe

Up crack just right of 'The Closet' for 10 metres then up front of buttress. Finish up good short crack.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1982

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall
12 Cuddapan

Good rock.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001

Trad 18m
12 Hump The Bluey

Diagonal line slanting slightly left.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre
12 Wee Skerrick

This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of "The Baptism"

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre
12 Gulp

Up and right to ancient peg runner then left and up onto grassy ramp and wander up this.

Start: Start 8 metres left of the conifer near the "Bostok" ramp. There's a ramp of spiky grass at 8 metres.

FA: Shorty Turner & members of Z Commando Company, 1967

Trad 45m
12 Iago

OK.

Start: Start as for "Morgul Khan".

FA: Rod Young (solo), 1977

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Possum Rocks
12 Common Ringtail

The line up the wall to a ledge with a large loose block.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Central Corner".

FA: Trevor Wall & Vince Waters, 2004

Trad 9m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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