|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
Start at crack line 2 metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dec 2017
|15||★ The Ghost of Melville
-ATTENTION: There can be a Bee hive on this route, take care- ( none Sept 2018) The major corner, facing the second cave.
Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.
FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall|
|15||★ Orange Crush
Start: 3.5m right of CC.
FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990
|16||★ Rubbery Under Arms
Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.
FA: Michael Creek, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|16|| Pot Boiler
Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.
FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984
|16 R|| ★★ Marmot's Mall
The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.
Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.
FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V0|| V0 problem on left
|V0|| ★ V0 Juggy Arete
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
The line just L of the arete.
Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.
FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992
|16||Nothing Too Serious
Short corner then R and up.
Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.
FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966
LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.
Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.
FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970
|15||★ Flavius Maximus
Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.
Start just R of the descent chimney.
FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970
The bottomless corner.
Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.
FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|16||★★ tool bender
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|15||Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57
See if you can pick the theme running here?
Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.
Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|15||Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.
Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.
FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Dec 2016
|16||★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.
Start: Start 1m R of GM.
FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989
|15||Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.
Start: Start 1m R of F.
FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|16||Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner.
Start: Start just R of arete.
FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982
Up then step L and follow the continuation.
Start: Start 2m R of SL.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams
Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966
|16||★ Scylla Alt Finish
A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.
|15||Hey There Little Insect
As for C for 10m then R and up arete.
Start: Start as for C.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall|
The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.
FA: Harley Burke + others, 1981
On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|15||Two Years on a Nork in Shedway
Up middle of face.
Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.
FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall|
Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.
FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver|
|16||Trapped Like a Rat In a Corner
An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.
FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998
The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.
FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
The crack, moving R at overhang.
Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
|15||★ ScarIet Sage
Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.
Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.
FA: Lindorff, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 19 Mar 2015
|16||Shades Of Grey
Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 19 Mar 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.
Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.
FA: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
Start: Start in the gully R of PW.
FA: Norm Osborne & Paul Gillis, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|16||★★ Bat Out Of Hell
A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.
Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.
FA: Loughran + ? & late 80s.
FA: Kieran, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.
Start: Start as for C.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|15||★ Smooth Journey
If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976
|16||★★★ Men in Tights
Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.
Left curving crack with a few nice jams.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967
|16||Running From the Martian
The crack R of a bush.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
A link-up of the first part of 'Bandwagon' into the finish of 'Passionate Tips'.
Start: Start as for B.
FA: Flaccid Mentz & Floppy Tempest, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|16||★ Stentor 3rd Pitch
Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.
Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
|15 X||★★ Minuet
Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
A few good moves up the front of the 'D Major' buttress.
Start: Start at the lowest point of the 'D Major' Buttress.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rod Young, 1976
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section.
Start: Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of 'D Major'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968
Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots.
Start: Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
The central line up the 'Conifer Crack' buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux.
Start: Just right of 'Conifer Crack'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Neil Barr., 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
|15 R||★ Fiddle
The left arete of the 'Didgeridoo' buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off.
Start: As for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984
This pitch right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack' looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from 'Horn Piece' or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.
Start: Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack'
FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965
1 15 27m
2 13 23m
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.
Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.
Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.
FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965
Lovely corner on the second pitch.
Start: Scramble up the gully right of 'Toccata' under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for 'Yossarian' but it doesn't add much value.
FA: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979
Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 23 Sep 2017
|15||Wingnuts in Heaven
The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.
FA: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V0||★ Ear of the Bunny
|V0||★ Face and scoop
Over the nose
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left What You Like|
Climb is on the east face, facing the Pines. Starts easily to shallow cave at 6m. Leaving the cave, the gear is rather thin and at the grade.
FA: Lachlan Brown & Pete Holmes, 6 Mar 2012
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
|16||The Day Bryn's Dad Got Scared
Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.
Up right side of flake.
FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995
|15||★ Six and Out
About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.
FA: P, L & H, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
|16||★ Brick Dust
Pale waterstreak into thrutch crack.
Start on blocky ledge halfway up the left side of Brick Wall - i.e. off the top of the pinnacle just ledt of Squeakeasy.
FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling (aided on peg - Baxter freed it later), 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|16||★ Jed's Climb
Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013
|15||★★ Beautiful Possibilities
A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975
Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.
Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966
There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.
FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966
Stronlgy suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same. This climb is up behind 'Golden Fleece Wall', starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of 'Dylan'.
Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulg, finger-crack and on to top.
FA: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 2008
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall|
|16||★ Where Weasels Dare
Originally described as SSO RHV.
Start as for The Stoat Steps Out.
Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar|
|16||The Height Below
The crack then the arete.
Start: Start 2m L of D.
FA: Keith Egerton & Russell Crow, 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall|
|16||Rambo Survival Route
Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.
Start 2m L GC.
Crack, seam, ramp, wall.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Bert Levy, 1981
Climb the corner.
Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Rein Kamer & Peter Watling, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|15||Tears For Fears
Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.
Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.
FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992
The short flake with a bouldery start.
Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Roger Greatrick, 1984
|15||★★ Two Pitches to Glory
The big L-facing flake.
Start: Start R of SS.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|16||The Crying Game
A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.
Start as for SS and TJ.
From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.
FA: Andy Reynolds, Chris Abernathy, Ben Clayton & Lauren Connell, 1997
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
The corner then L around the roof.
Start: Start in the alcove R of K.
FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett & Mike Stone, 1978
|15||★ Puppy Love
The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.
Start: Start at the arete just R of F.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1978
|16||Click my Lit
Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.
Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.
FA: Richard Smith & solo, 1999
Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.
FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall|
Up the line and exit left.
Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.
FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
The line up the L side of the buttress.
Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.
FA: Rod Young & Matt Taylor, 1976
The first route in the world to have its own web-site!
Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.
Up the corner, finishing slightly left
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
As for Z then up L onto flake and up.
Start: Start as for Z.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993
Climb the line between 'Charity' and 'Hope Variant Start' to overlap. Step right 1 metre then straight up, finishing up nice clean slab past bolt. Apparently 'Great Pissing Ledges' finishes on the left of the upper slab though it's a bit hard to tell that from the descriptions and topo.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 7 Jul 2011
|15||★ Great Pissing Ledges
Ewww, hopefully the name is hypothetical! You need to see a urologist if your bladder can't hold on for a 14m route. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab. Note since doing this climb the Mentz Tempest guide to Arapiles mentions a climb called 'Hope Variant Start'. 'Great Pissing Ledges' is a direct continuation of Hope Variant Start which remains completely independent of Hope.
FA: Deb Churches & Mark Witham, 1996
|15||★ Resurrection Direct Start
Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.
Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.
FA: Pete Holmes & Phil DaCosta, 2003
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
|16||Lets Do Lunch
See arapiles.net for a photo.
Start: Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.
FA: Keith Lockwood et al.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear.
Start: Start 2m R of NH.
FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd & Kazimierczak, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984