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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
14 Holdup Line Direct Finish
Trad 20m
14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 28m
13 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

Trad 20m
13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

Trad 20m
14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
13 Trooper Two

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
14 Kelly Watch The Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
13 Sir George

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0- V0 Problem
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
14 Nero

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 13m
14 Tom Thumb

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Trad 15m
14 Roaming Knows

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
14 Dud Day Afternoon

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000

Trad 50m, 2
14 A Sore Finger

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
13 Side Saddle Sally

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016

Trad 15m
13 Back Passage

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016

Trad 14m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
13 Mouse Trap

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979

Trad 45m
13 Rat Trap

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971

Trad 45m
14 Climb is not the correct noun

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
14 I'm A Little Teapot

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001

Trad 25m
14 Charybdis

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

  1. 15m (14) The R crack to the ledge.

  2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

Trad 30m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls
13 Kick the Ladder Down After You

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

FA: Leech & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
14 Rat Cracker

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
14 Chico

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
13 Zeppo

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
14 Huldra

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015

Trad 15m
14 Scatterbrain

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
14 Tarzan

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
14 Eurylochus

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
13 Hell For Leather

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
13 Muldoon
1 13 20m
2 12 22m
  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 42m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
13 The Frontier of Credibility

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
13 Bandwagon

The crack then slender buttress.

Start: Start just R of DM.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1978

Trad 35m
13 Organ Grinder

Good.

Start: Start at the buttress R of DM.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1973

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
14 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.

Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

Mixed trad 30m, 1
14 D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe
14 Libretto - CS Concerto combo

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.

  1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of 'Libretto'.

  2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

Trad 50m, 2
14 C.S. Concerto

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.

Start: In the 'D Major' gully.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

  2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967

Trad 50m, 2
13 Holpyp

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of 'Ejaculation'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965

Trad 50m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
14 Fiddle Diddle

Desperate for short people.

Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
14 Cod Piece

Not attractive.

Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995

Trad 30m
13 Horn Piece

Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 33m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
14 Tremulo

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.

Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966

Trad 25m
13 Hot Air Symposium

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

  1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

  2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008

Trad 35m, 2
14 Alychne

The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (#3 RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968

Trad 40m
14 Middle 8

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
14 Underachiever

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 30m
14 Overachiever

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
13 Operation Leo

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981

Trad 12m
14 Blobs Away

Start: The next line right.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
13 Pancho

Start: Start as for Quisling.

  1. 20m (13) Up Q to the pedestal then R into line and up this steeply to a corner. (Pancho Direct Start (19) takes the yellow groove 1m R of the pedestal).

  2. 28m (13) The corner then dodgy rock on the L.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (DS: Chris Baxter & Ed Neve), 1974

Trad 48m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
14 Three Pitches to Glory

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976

Trad 15m
13 Sob Story

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 16m
14 Strife on the Gravy Train

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
13 Cubbies Climb

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000

Trad 10m
14 Ball Terrier

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 15m
14 Bitch Wank

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
13 Parity

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016

Trad 15m
14 Loyalty

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975

Trad 18m
13 whatever Tom decides to call it

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018

Trad
14 Beguiled

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014

Trad 15m
14 It Went

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011

Trad 12m
13 It's A Goer

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 8 Apr 2012

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
14 Penny Lane

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

  1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017

Trad 20m
14 Meanwhile...

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start: 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985

Trad 20m
14 Megalomaniac

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!

A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, take the R arete to find the rap anchor on a ledge just below the top (although the climbing is better if you take the shallow corner on the L arete)

FA: John Moore, 1967

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
13 Slippery Dip

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford

Trad 25m
13 Fox on the Rocks

From the block step L and up frictional slab.

Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
14 Next Horizon

3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
13 Blue Toes

Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015

Trad 15m
14 Easier Access

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Thyme

Up the R crack,which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start: Start at the crack R of A.

FA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Sage

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

FA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dec 2018

Trad 29m
14 Pitchfork

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

FA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982

Trad 40m
14 Gethsemane

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
13 Armpit

Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire) . Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
13 Stalagmite

The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
14 R Castelle

Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).

  1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of 'Dreadnought' pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

Trad 45m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert
14 Ngarrinarri

Belay on big ledge 35m down abseil. Easily up orange corner, but watch out for some loose rock, to the little overhang. Through overhang and up interesting ground (slings needed) then easy ground to top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 22 Mar 2014

Trad 40m
14 Crusader

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

  1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

  2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Schirmer, 1977

Trad 60m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
13 Lawrence

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start: Start between 'Dreadnought' Buttress and 'Dunes Buttress' at a shrubby rib.

  1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

  2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

  3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 100m, 3
13 Dunes Direct

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start: Tuck under the boulder left of 'Eskimo Nell' - One metre right of the start of Arab.

  1. 30m (13)

  2. 25m (11)

  3. 22m (10)

  4. 23m (12)

FA: Greg Pritchard & Simon Mentz - mid's, 1990

Trad 100m, 4
13 Eskimo Nell RHS

Not bad, Seems hard for the grade. Start around R from 'Eskimo Nell' in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of 'Eskimo Nell'

FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1966

Trad 30m
13 The Dark Side of the Dune

Start: Start as for 'Eskimo Nell RHS'

  1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then continue up ramp for some distance to belay below a corner, immediately right of the crack of 'Icecream Man'.

  2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

  3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

FA: Bill Andrews, Dave McLean & Barry Edwards, 1977

Trad 120m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
14 Mantis

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965

Trad 33m
13 Petard

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little & Patrick Over, 1997

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
14 Minimus

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0- The usual descent
Boulder 5m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V0- High traverse
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V0- V0-

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V0- 8

Up jugs by pockets

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle
14 Shoadee

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Trad 24m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
13 Ivan

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 14m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
14 Lightning Crack

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

FA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 30m
13 Lock-up

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984

Trad 16m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
13 R Seneca

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

Trad 77m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
14 New Tricks

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

  1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

  3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

  4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Jul 2015

Trad 110m
14 Swansong

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

  1. 30m (-) As for EC.

  2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

  3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

  4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

  5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974

Trad 120m, 5
14 Resignation-Kaiser

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.

Trad 110m, 4

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