|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an under cling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.
FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dec 2017
The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984
|17|| Pot Boiler Right Hand Variant
Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.
Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.
|18|| ★ Raiders of the Lost Crack
Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.
Start: 1m right of 'CC'.
FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984
|17|| Hog Jowls
Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
In the same vein as Je Sui Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.
Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
Start beneath the R side of the front face.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
|18||★★ The Rack
People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.
FA: John Ewbank, 1968
The right line.
FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|18||★ dont chuck your shoes till it is over
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|18||Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face.
Start: Start 6m R of BT.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|18||Angry, gun totin', meat eating people
Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague
arete to top.
Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
|18||★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.
Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.
FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
Start: Start R of CLCP2.
FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.
Start: Start 4m L of BL.
FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989
|18||★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.
Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981
|18||★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.
Start: Start as for IaLD.
FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987
|17||Ed's Super Sarnie
Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected.
Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'.
FA: Ed Darling & Gareth Llewellyn, 1997
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
|18||★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line.
Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967
FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall|
The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base.
FA: Philip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|17||Tractatus Logica Ludicrous
The thin seam.
Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.
FA: Robert Leech & Pritchard, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall|
|18||Serious Young Lizards
Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.
FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver|
This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Jack Lewis, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.
Start: Start R of EE.
FA: Mike Law & Yoshio Mishima, 1982
The face - take care with delicate rock.
Start: Start 1.5m R of R.
FA: Mike Law & friends, 1982
The next line of holds up the face.
Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.
FA: Robin Miller & Dave Gairns, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.
Start: start left of 'Tendrils'
FA: Rod Young, 1980
Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980
|17||★ Mexican Madness
Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.
Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.
Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.
FA: Mike Law
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
|18||★★ Gilt Edged
Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|18||★★ Daily Planet
Superman is lurking!
Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980
FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.
Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.
FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|17||★ Limbo (Baby Limbo)
It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015
This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.
Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.
FA: Mike Stone & Peter Watling, 1975
FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton), 1977
|40m, 2, 5|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|17||★★ Surface To Air
Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.
Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
|18||★ The Iliad Connection
Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.
Start: Start as for Iphigenia.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998
Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains.
Start: Start at the chimney between Iphigenia Buttress and 'Clytemnaestra Buttress' (ie start as for Clytemnaestra).
FA: Reg Williams & Peter Jackson, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|17||★ Cruxless Knickers
The thin crack, careful of the loose block.
Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1978
|18||Almost Completely Worthless
What's in a name?
Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998
|17||Suck Got Sick
Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.
Start: Start as for RftM.
FA: Sam Blainey & S Madoc, 1990
|18||What Is and What Should Never Be
Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.
Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.
FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|18||★★ Steel Delinquency Variant
Up the slick crack to join SD.
Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
R and up at top.
Start: Start R of TFoC.
FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995
Flake then short wall.
Start: Start in middle of wall.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
|17||Born to be Mild
Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!
FA: Douglas Hockly & Edwin Irvine, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
|18||★ Dude Boobs
Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.
FA: Roger Caffin, Sue Caffin & Jan Neville, 1966
|17||★ Saint Peter
The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.
The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.
Descend via rap off chains.
FA: original start by Peter Lindorff & Chris George early 70s with 2 aids
FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975
Essentially the right arete of D Minor.
Start 2m R of D Minor.
Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.
FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff , 1978
Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974
|18||★ Cantata Variant Start
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
|17 R||★★ Stentor
Subtle line on left side of the 'D Major' Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.
Start: Front left side of 'D Major'
FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980
Not really inferior to 'Libretto'.
Start: As for 'D Major'.
FA: Unknown., 2000
|17||It Could Be Worse
How? The initial crack of 'Ejaculation' and then straight up from the plaque.
FA: Brigitte & Jon Muir.., 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation. It is possible to do a harder finish (18) by traversing across the blank wall to the final flake system of F Sharp but there doesn't seem to be much point. This variant by Lockwood and Ed Neve 23/7/1977. Second pitch is complete rubbish so abseil/lower 30m from chains into gully 5m above ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974
|18||★★ Jens roof
A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others.
Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.
Go straight up to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef) and follow the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. The climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, up through middle of roof to easier climbing and 30m rap anchor.
FA: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 2007
The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at 'Arapiles' that he would not consider repeating.
Start: As for Jen's Roof.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981
|17||★★ Discord Direct
As appears in new mentz/tempest select guide (2008).
Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.
FA: Digby Gotts (Direct Start)
FA: Richard Curtis & Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish), 1980
Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.
FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 21 Dec 2015
A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall.
Start: Start on the grey buttress just right of 'Toccata'.
FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett.
|17||★ Hindenburg Disaster
Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.
Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.
Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.
FA: FRancine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.
FA: Dave Scarlett, 2 May 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
|17||Blue Chevrolet Ballerina
Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.
Start: Start 5m down R of OL.
FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1982
|17||Diet of Worms
The wide L-facing flake-crack.
Start: Start 4m L of MYC.
FA: FRA Miller & Dodd, 1982
Start: Line on arete.
FA: L, P & H, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
The shallow groove, then the L crack and the L side of the flake to a corner and face on the south wall.
Start: Start on L edge of 'Brick Wall'.
FA: Mike Law & Peter Watson., 1976
A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Feb 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|17||★ Sue's Climb
Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.
Start: Start 2m L of 'Pedro'.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984
|18||★★ Golden Fleece
A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.
Start 3m R of Jason.
Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969
FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974
Start: This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.
FA: Hoskins & Lattanzio, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
|17||★★ Moby Dick
The obvious flake crack on the wall facing 'Golden Fleece Wall'.
Start: Start on S side of the pinnacle.
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst, 1966
The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than 'The Rack'. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.
Start: Start just R of FT.
FA: Roland Pauligk, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall|
|18||★ Creeping Green Chinese Crud
Start: Start 3m L of TSSO.
FA: Craig Nottle & Mark Moorhead, 1979
|18||★★ The Stoat Steps Out
Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The RHV goes diagonally R.
Start: Start under the main chalked crack line on this wall.
FA: Peter Watson & Barry Edwards
The block and seam.
Start: Start 1m R of TSSO.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985
Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top!
Start: Starts right of 'Bunyip' and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall|
|17||★ Golliwogs Cakewalk
The weakness in the slab then L into chimney
Start: Start just L of 'Coyote'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|17||★★ Gollywog's Cake icing (direct finish)
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
The bottomless crack.
Start: Start R of WoT.
FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|17||There is no Dog
An accidental new route. Not easy to locate from this description though!
Start: Behind the 'Wailing Wall' up right arête.
FA: Edwin Irvine & Greg Pritchard, 2007
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall|
Dyno, then the wall.
Start: Start R of CV.
FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982
|18||Eat More Fat
Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.
FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.
Start: Start R of D.
FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield & Ann Hurst, 1992
The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)
Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966
|18||★★ Howling Wolf
The diagonal crack then the face.
Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.
FA: Matt Taylor & Rod Young, 1978
More wide crack thrashery.
“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”
Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966
|18||★ The Hard Ears
The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Ben Ewald, 1976
|18||★ Yelping Pup
Start: Start 1m R of THE.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Gordon Talbett, 1978
A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.
Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.
FA: Andy Reynolds & Simon McRae, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall|
The twin cracks.
Start: Start just L of KB.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Allan Wilkie, 1983
Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.
Start: Start as for H.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|18||★ Happy Ending
The crack with a hard start.
Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Law, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.
FA: Mike Totterdell & Pete Holmes, 8 Mar 2012
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.
FA: Smith & G. Hoxley, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Quite classic and good fun.
Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967
Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979
|18||Don't Do This
At last - some truth in advertising!
Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing 'Central Gully'.
Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.
FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999