|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|22||★ Cricket Bats in a Box
Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.
Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988
|22||★ Red Right Hand||10m, 1|
|22||★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro||14m, 2|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|21 R|| ★ The Ferrets Are Coming
Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.
Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.
FA: Peter Watson & Mike Law, 1976
|21|| ★ Sagittarian Variant Start
Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.
FA: 1 Jan 2014
|22|| ★ New Wave Wanks
Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.
FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983
|22|| ★ A New Toy
Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.
FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982
|22|| ★ Problematic
The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V3|| ★ Traverse
|V3|| ★★ V3 pocket problem
|V3|| ★ Brain Death - Piker's Variant
|V3|| ★★ L
|V2|| ★★ S
|V3|| ★★ D
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|21||★ Oogie Boogie
A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.
FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981
Overhang, mantle, then weakness on R.
Start: Start just R of 'Popeye' at the obvious V.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981
|22||★ Hyperspace Bypass||20m, 4|
Shallow corner then R through bulges.
Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
|22||★ Pinpricks Of Blood
Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979
Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.
FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984
|22 X||★ No Wall At All
A low bolt then try not to die above that.
Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.
FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981
The steep corner.
Start 6m R of Nero.
FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke, 1969
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977
|21||People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse
Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.
FA: Hoskins, G. Jones & Smith, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
|21||Squeeze Me Gently
The arete, veering L.
Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.
FA: Ian Anger & James Falla, 1986
Try and find this one, I dare you.
Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.
FA: Smith, Bride & Pritchard, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|21||★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!
FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully|
The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.
Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.
FA: Rod Young, 1980
|22||★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line.
Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.
FA: Mike Law, 1977
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.
Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.
FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|21||That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete.
Start: Start just R of WMWK.
FA: Brian Fish, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|21||★★ Feel It Closing In
Good face climbing past BR into crack.
Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.
FA: Roland Foster & Greg Pritchard, 1982
|22 R||Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner.
Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.
FA: Jon Muir & Russell Chudleigh, 1984
Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.
Start: Start as for IaLD.
FA: Sean Toren & Steph Stewart, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
|22||★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.
Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1976
|21||★ Rats in the Ranks
Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jan 2015
Sustained face and crack with good wires.
Start: Start 3m R of K.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1982
A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.
Start: Start R of MW.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mike Law, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
Steep groove, delicate slab. Had a lower-off added around 2003; you can also walk off via KRGRF.
Start: Start on the L end of 'Skydiver' Wall, just L of a nose.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
|22||★★ Free Admission
Straight up well protected wall.
Start: Start 1m R of EMM.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981
|22||★★ Easy Does It
Seam with two bolts.
Start: Start 1m R of FA.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981
|22||★ Spasticus Autisticus
It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.
Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8
FA: Mark Wood, 2005
Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.
Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.
Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).
FA: Lionel Clay & John Pawson, 1986
|21||★★ Cruel Consistency
The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.
Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).
FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young (with illogical finish). DF by Mike Law, 1982
|21||★★ English Ethics
More like a RHV than a separate route...
Start: Start as for CC.
FA: Mike Law & Robin Miller., 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.
Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'
FA: Rod Young, 1980
|22||★ Pwocol Hawum
Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.
Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.
FA: Mike Law
|22||★ Cry Hawum
An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 18 Apr 2015
|21||Chunder at 30
FA: John Muir, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.
Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981
FFA: Chris Jones., 2001
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|22||★ Fixed Smile
Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).
Start: Start just R of TK.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
|21||★★ I Dunno
Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels & Mark Moorhead, 1981
FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982
FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982
FA: Direct Finish (25) by Kevin Lindorff., Dec 2014
|22 R||Perry White
The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.
Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985
Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).
Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.
FA: Geoff Weigand & Peter Croft (both solo), 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
|21||Across the Andes by Frog
The small arete with a bolt.
Start: Start R of LL.
FA: Simon Mentz & Nick White, 1992
Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.
Start: Start as for B.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|22||★ Cassandra Direct
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.
Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.
FA: C Peisker, 1978
|22||Warts and All
Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.
Start: Start 3m R of C.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Heinz Zak, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck|
|22 R||★★ Plimsoll Line
Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...
Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.
FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|21||★ Blind Profit
Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.
Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Simon Mentz., 2007
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|22||★★ Collision Course
Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.
Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979
|22||Love that comfort
The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.
FA: Douglas Hockly, 1 Jan 2014
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|22||★★ Trench Rawfare
Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!
Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.
Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.
Offwidth Size Dependent!!
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
Up the face with 1 BR.
Start: Start as for FB.
FA: Kurt Smith & early 90s?, 2000
The fine line L of the slim tree.
Start: Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake.
Start: Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.
FA: John Chapman & Kevin Lindorff, 1975
Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected.
Start: Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of 'Frenzy'.
FA: Jim Thomas & Mark Moorhead, 1982
The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.
Start: Start just R of F.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aid), 1968
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1976
|21||★ Passionate Tips
Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.
Start: Start on wall R of DM.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|22||★ Private Detective
One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Lincoln Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
|22 R||★ Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
|21||★ Pull Anchor
Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt.
Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station.
FA: muki woods
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall|
|21||★ Wyrd Direct
Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.
FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978
|22||★ Wyrd Left Hand Variant
|21||★★ The Wraith
This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. 'Small' wires now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21.
Start: Just right of 'Tannin'.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
|21||★ Clear the Pipes
A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to joint H at the bottom of it's crack.
FA: Anthony Schellens & Paul Deacon, Dec 2018
Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scarey.
Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Tremulo' at seam.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000
|22||A Concerted Effort
Beautiful rock but a bit contrived.
Start: Start as for 'Discord'.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982
Hardly a recommendation.
FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V2||★ Eye of the bunny
Left to right over nose. Sit start.
|V2||★ Obvious Problem on Back Left
|V3||★ Over the Nose of the Bunny
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
|21||★ Falling Upwards
Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.
FA: David Millard, 2004
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.
|22||Mark You've Changed
"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie & Malcolm Matheson, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.
Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1974
FFA: Henry Barber, 1975
|22||★★ Quisling Direct Start
Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds.
The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb & Peter Mills, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|21||★ Beautiful Loser
Up 'Jason' then R along traverse line to 'Mind Games'. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.
Start: Start as for 'Jason'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979
|21||★ Medea's Revenge
Start as for Mind Games.
Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1993
|21 R||★ Nightlinger
The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
|22||Things That Make You Go Hmm
Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.
FA: Simon Mentz & Greg Pritchard, 1991
The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.
FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam|
As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground.
Start: The L crack on the pillar.
FA: Rolang Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1967
FFA: Henry Barber, 1975
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
Sustained full value crack.
Start: Start 1m R of W.
FA: Paul Aubrey & Glenn Tempest, 1980
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|22 R||★ Death Sentence
A badly protected difficult start, which has been done many ways, eases off to nondescript climbing.
Start: Start about 5m R of DL.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
|22 R||Reservoir Gods
You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. Start: 2m Left of Howling Wolf at the arete.
Up arete to break. Difficult blind step up to top.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997
|21||Dog Day Afternoon
The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.
Start: Start just R of HW.
FA: Ant Callaghan & James Naylor, 1990