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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past 2 FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
27 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

Mixed trad 12m, 2
26 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Trad 15m
26 Hit the Deck

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

FA: Mike Law

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
26 Letting Go

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
26 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Sport 12m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
26 Motivated by Food

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989

Mixed trad 25m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
27 Spinning Around the Drain

Old James Falla project with a bolt or maybe two? Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Trad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
26 Sustained Metaphor

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
26 Cry Baby

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

FA: Muki Woods, 2006

Mixed trad 10m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
26 R Heimweh

More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!

Start: Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
27 Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

Sport 20m
27 Detestes

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.

Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Mixed trad 15m, 4
26 R Celine and Julie Go Bolting

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
26 Raven

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992

Mixed trad 12m, 1
27 Love That Pain

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985

Mixed trad 40m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle
26 Iron Void Variant

A completely separate route despite the name!

Start right of Iron Void and up.

FA: Steve Monks

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
27 Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy.

Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher'

Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher' (ignore third bolt out right). At first horizontal traverse right to flake which is followed to 'Cadenza'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier & Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Mixed trad 18m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
26 So you think you can jamb

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick

FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
26 Schnell

The short wall with a BR.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 10m, 1
26 R Fully Loaded

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
26 Dogbolter

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Mixed trad 10m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall
27 Chill Pill

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011

Trad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
26 Purgatory

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion.

Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 25m
26 Polygap

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Start: Start as for 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994

Mixed trad 36m, 3
26 The Best of Hollywood

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Trad 20m
26 King of the Jungle

Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete.

Start: Start at the arete just R of D.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
26 Clap Hands

Crank up the line past PR to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove.

Start: Start 1.5m R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
26 Fists of Fury

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of 'Exodus lI' . Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

Trad 20m
26 Exodus lI

Well chalked line (marked in yellow) left of obvious left-trending crack (Copyright). Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 1
27 Exodus 2.5

At the top of the crux of 'Exodus lI', break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

FA: Dave Jones

Sport 20m, 4
26 Mass Exodus

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

Start: As for 'Exodus 2.5'.

Trad 20m
26 Copyright Direct

Takes the line immediately right of 'Exodus' II (white line) and left of large crack weakness (Copyright). Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of 'Exodus' II.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 20m
26 Blast Off

Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Slip Slop Slap'.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

Mixed trad 16m, 2
26 Pull My Strings

Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Start: Start 7m R of W.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Mixed trad 10m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber
V6 1) two small edges
Boulder
{US} V6 6) big dyno
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
26 Grimstone

Climb 'Reaper' to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on 'Taste Sensation'. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join 'Taste Sensation' at its final crack.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Trad 35m
26 Incest sensation direct

Best of the lot. Boldly up Incest to no hand rest to join taste sensation. At thr big break head directly up Grimstone.

Could be 27.

70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper.

Mixed trad 40m, 5
26 Sisterly and Christally

Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with 'Wild Reaper Connection' to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Incest'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991

Mixed trad 40m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
27 R Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 3
26 X Redrum

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Mixed trad 25m, 1
26 El Mega Pump

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

Mixed trad 35m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
26 R End of the Earth

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully!

Start: Start by scrambling up the wall opposite 'Dreadnought', to a big chockstone.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd & Philby, 1991

FA: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones., 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 2
26 R Last Temptation Variant

The original version of 'Last Temptation'. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join 'Great Temptation' at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Wythe, 2000

Trad 25m
26 R Great Temptation

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall - or from the top of 'Dreadnought'.

Hand traverse into the base of the very overhung crack. Up this, being careful of the opposite wall. A good belayer essential.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad 25m
26 Deliciously Deranged

Starts on the upper terrace above 'Dreadnought' pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of 'Great Temptation'. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 25m, 1
26 Cecil B De Mille

Start as for 'Dreadnought Variant' but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 20m, 1
27 Forced Entry Direct

Start 1m right of 'Dreadnought Variant' and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks (old piton). Join 'No Exit' near the top, and finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1991

Trad 18m
26 Forced Entry

Start 1m left of 'No Exit' and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into 'No Exit'. Finish as for that route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
26 X Forbidden Fruit

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

  1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

  2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith & late 80s, 1988

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
26 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

Mixed trad 30m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
26 Hot Finger

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Mixed trad 10m, 3
26 Strolling Direct Start

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney

Mixed trad 20m, 3
27 Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: As for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 6
26 Ergonomics

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

Sport 20m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
26 Wilma Holds Her Own

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V6 V6
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V6 3

Steep arete facing the creek

Boulder
V6 9

Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle
26 Atomic Fusion

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall
26 Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988

Mixed trad 35m, 5
26 Denim

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in the 80's - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear.

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 2
27 London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 30m, 3
26 See You Round

A very tough crux down low.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
26 Imagination DS

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 8m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
27 Taylor Made

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
26 R Very Anxious

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows.

Start: Start down L of AN.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 20m
26 Anxiety Neurosis

Start: Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of 'Bluff Major'.

  1. 20m (26) Head out left past a piton and a high bolt, then step down and left to arete and onwards to ledge.

  2. 20m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top.

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 4
26 Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct

From the chain of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way.

FA: Jill McLeod

Sport 20m
27 Anxiety Neurosis Original Line

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

Sport 20m, 2
26 R Holy Moses

Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro.

Start: Start at the first belay of AN.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
26 Bounds

Follow 'Anticipation' towards AN, as far as a ledge with a bolt. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Start: Start as for 'New Diocese'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Mixed trad 35m, 2
26 R New Diocese Bulk More Direct

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold.

Unrepeated?

Start: Start as for ND.

FA: Roland Foster & Philby, 1984

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
26 The Prow

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

Sport 22m, 6
27 FinaI Departure

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 27m, 7
26 The Year of Loving Dangerously

Start down R of D. Slim groove with 2 bolts, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join 'Despatched'.

FA: Nick White & Kelly Lenglet, 1991

Mixed trad 30m, 4
26 Veneer

Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'. Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Sport 15m, 4
27 Requited

Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Sport 35m
26 Recent Theft

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
27 Fox on a Hot Thin Roof

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 25m
26 Into the Black

The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m.

Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.

  1. 20m (15) Climb up TGTBaTU then belay while you're still below the roof on the right.

  2. 30m (26) Move R under roof, then crank out it past a piton and sling, which by now will be rubbish if they're even there at all. Now head R up a flake above and through the next roof. Continue up the wall above (or, more conveniently, move L to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980

Trad 30m, 2
26 The Last Emperor

Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2015

Mixed trad 32m, 2, 2
26 Vanya Going Underground

Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof.

Start: Start 6m R of NF.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

Trad 25m
26 R Is Vanya a Dog?

A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade!

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

FFA: 1983

Mixed trad 18m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V6 Crankshaft Traverse
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder
V6 Traverse
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V6 Attack a Helpless Chicken
Boulder 6m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
26 Think Positive

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 22m
26 Siva Eva Mor Direk

Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish.

FA: Gordon Poultney

Mixed trad 15m, 1
26 Siva Direct

As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker.

FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983

Mixed trad 20m, 2
26 Procol Harum

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
27 Body Recession

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 3
27 Hot Coq

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

Sport 15m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall
25/26 Lick the Spoon

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016

Sport 20m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Rats Alley
26 Crystal Vision

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986

Sport 20m, 4
27 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
26 Social Retard

Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes.

Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a rusty carrot which can be backed up by a wire just below. Crimp and slab R into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!).

If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Social Retard Deviant', also 26.

FA: Kieran Lawton & Gordon Poultney, 2010

Mixed trad 35m, 4
26 Social Retard Deviant

As for Social Retard, but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original.

Mixed trad 4

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