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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
19 R Slip Knot

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V1 V1 Problem (a)
Boulder 3m
V1 V1 Problem (b)
Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
19 Sausage Of The Century

Bouldery start then L into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
19 The Last In Line

The arete.

Start just R of 'Yakshini'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
19 Brutus

The corner then finish R.

Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.

FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990

Trad 20m
19 Roman Ite Domum

The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple
19 I've Been a Bunny

Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.

Start: Start R of MC at jugs.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986

Mixed trad 12m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
19 Bridge of Thighs

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
19 When Mark Was King

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
19 Chubby Like Chris

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
19 R Coke Adds Life

Head diagonally L (bold but not the crux), then the flake.

Alternatively, head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove which has some gear, then back left.

Start: Start R of S, 1m L of small tree.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Trad 12m
19 Candy-O

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1982

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
19 Cool Shades

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

FA: Nick White (solo), 1990

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
19 A Cappella

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

FA: unknown

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
19 Togrul Khan

Pull through verhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 28m
19 Daily Planet RHV

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
19 Excuse Me While I Belch

Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area
19 The Last Disco Dancer

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015

Sport 18m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
19 Electra

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

Trad 40m
19 Telemachus

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few meters right of Electra.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
19 What Is Carborized?

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

FA: Jon Muir, Brigitte Muir (DS done by Louise Shepherd & Enga Lokey), 1994

Trad 18m
19 A Twist of Lemming

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995

Trad 15m
19 Lemmington

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
19 Juvenile Speed

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Keyboard'.

  1. 45m (12) Up 'Keyboard' until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

  2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

FA: John Stone & Richard Evans.., 1979

Trad 75m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall
19 Wyrd

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.

Start: On the left side of the grey pedestal.

FA: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 50m
19 Tannin

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

Trad 35m
19 F Sharp

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.

Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V1 Over the eye
Boulder 2m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
19 Red Valiant Charger

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
19 Nut Case

As for W but then follow the R crack to ledge. Step up R onto R wall, over roof into steep groove/crack.

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974

Trad 22m
19 Running Scared

A traverse of Brick Wall. A strange concept that has been superseded by Brickeasy. Start as for Brick Dust

Up Brick Dust for one move, then r across Squeakeasy to easier traversing.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

Trad 20m
19 Quisling

Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!

Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.

Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.

FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling, 1974

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
19 Possibly Beautiful

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky.

Start 1m R of Golden Fleece.

Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

FA: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 28m
19 Going to Sydney

The wall just right of Dylan.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
19 Murph Sports a Sparkler

Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.

Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
19 Black Dog

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Peter Watson, 1978

Trad 15m
19 Arethusa

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
19 R Crystalline

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
19 Up In My Bedroom

Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top.

Start: As you walk off the top of 'Mari Buttress' you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down.

The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
19 Change of Plans, Leg it!

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
19 Frontispiece

Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the 'Intransience' face.

Start: Start at the far L end of 'Skyline Walls'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
19 R Trademark

The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

Start: Start just R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 20m
19 Bit Torrent

Start as for 'Copyright' and continue up crack direct to top half of 'Bootleg'.

FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison & Nic Kiraly, 2010

Trad 20m
19 Bootleg

Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the 'thread' to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better.

Start: Start just R of Copyright.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
19 Hassan

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 12 Dec 2015

Sport 15m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin
{US} V1 Town Hall Water Gauge
Boulder
{US} V1 Gangsters Moll
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
19 Taking Aspirin for Despair

Trend a bit R to a smooth grey bulge with no pro (the gully just to the R is NOT an escape gully despite appearances). Walk R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars.

Start: Start 1m R of SC.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Michelle Doherty, 1992

Trad 18m
19 Rosy Shy

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged.

Start: Start 1m R of the major skanky diagonal cleft (Diagonal Crack).

The thin crack. After the crack eases the easiest finish is on the L, but pulling direct over the little overlap and up the short wall above is better.

FA: Eddy Ozols & Chris Stroud, 1979

Trad 35m
19 Energy Crisis

The wide crack, then the roof and wall.

Start: Start 8m R of D.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle
19 X E6 on grit

Bold. Don't forget the mattress.

Start: Right of Wild Rose at obvious crack.

Up crack swinging right to arete and stance. Back up left onto arete. Wander to top.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 15m
19 Pestilence

Straightens out Jon Muir's old route which climbed mostly off to the L. Starts immediately L of 'Scourge'. A difficult pull or two leads up past two bolts and finishes directly up the seam above and up the middle of the final headwall.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jan 2015

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
19 Short Time

Takes the southwest arete of the 'Dreadnought Buttress', from a ledge above 'Intergalactic Space Patrol'. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of 'Cranking for Jesus'. Was mistakenly originally transcribed into ACA as being the southeast arete of Starless Buttress. Climb the arete.

FA: Peter Mills & Glenn Tempest, 1981

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
19 R Ground Rush

Start and finish have poor pro. Straight up (was originally brushed very clean but may have grown back). Finish up shallow corner L of an orange nose.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Brontosaurus' at L end of ledge.

FA: Damien Hansen & Tim McCormack, 1989

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
19 Firedance

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton, 1977

Trad 15m
19 Bearbrass

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

  1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

  2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Steve Greig, 19 Feb 2018

Mixed trad 33m, 2, 3
19 Stillborn

The line delineating the L side of the Morphydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Trad 20m
19 Morfydd

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
19 Mandible

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth, 2004

Trad 41m
19 Liver Little

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride & Wilkins, 1995

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
19 Loop

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

FA: Mike Law

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V1 Face and flake
Boulder 3m
V1 Hideous Mantle
Boulder 4m
V1 Wee Holds 2 Corner
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Big Pointy Boulder
V1 V1 Middle of face
Boulder 5m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Animal Acts
V1 Petit matelas

Starting on the two obvious crimps and using the sidepull to make your way right . Avoid using the obvious juggy ledges. Finishes on the round white marble-y hold.

Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Unkown Boulder Golden Streak area
V1 Unknown, Inverted roof problem
Boulder 2m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Perfect jam boulder
V1 Perfect jam slot

Stand start in jam then up left and top out. Looks like a quite hard sit start has been done

Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V1 V1

On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V1 1

Traverse R to L

Boulder
V1 13

Rounded arete on good holds

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders The Playground
V1 Slab behind first boulder off track
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress
19 The Desired

Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'.

Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.

  1. 45m (19) Directly up into the cruxy corner, then continue steeply up direct crack to a small stance.

  2. 30m (14) Much easier and less good climbing takes you to the Bard Terrace. Solo off left from here or climb the last pitch of Bard or the wide corner.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter in climbing Orpheus solved the initial crux. Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger established The Desired by climbing in from Orpheus, June 1967. The direct line as it now is, Tony Dignan, Guy Cotter & Mike Law, 1981

Trad 60m, 2
19 Orpheus

Start: Start 15m up the gully, at an orange ledge.

  1. 18m (-) Traverse R on pale rock then up corner to belay at guano niche on the R.

  2. 43m (19) Originally done in 3 pitches. Up the L-trending ramp (move R around a hard bit).

  3. 18m (-) An overhang then up R.

  4. 33m (-) 'Steep' flake on L then up loose ledges.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965

Trad 110m, 4
19 Eurydice LHF

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Trad 30m
19 Eurydice RHF

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the right one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Trad 35m
19 Poppies

Start as for The Bard, or by traversing easily R from near the base of Eurydice.

  1. 35m (19) Wander up The 'Bard' slab, then continue trending slightly left over bulges (at one point entirely on loose blocks/flakes - you can avoid these by doing OPM). Belay a few metres R of Eurydice's 1st belay.

  2. 35m (19) Punch through the low roof at a weakness 3m R of Eurydice, then diagonal right and blast up the great red wall, staying a few metres L of the main arete. Belay on the Bard Terrace.

FA: Mike Law & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Trad 70m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
19 R TKO

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

FA: Ed Neve & Chris O'Brien, 1975

Trad 30m
19 Kama Sutra Pitch 2
Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
19 Dire Straights

Start as for 'Keyhole'. As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

FA: Ed Neve & Chris Baxter, 1974

Trad 30m
19 R Castles in the Air

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien, 1975

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
19 Pacemaker
  1. 18m (2) As for Eagle Cleft to base of chimney.

  2. 32m (19) Up Eagle Cleft direct chimney for 15m, bridge out and step on to right wall past bolt (19) up flake and traverse 5m to belay at chains.

  3. 17m (19) Directly up past loose blocks(pinned) to guano under roof. Exciting and exposed moves past 2 bolts to bolt belay.

  4. 22m (15) directly up wall for 18m then traverse right for 3m to belay as for new tricks.

  5. 25m (14) Directly up and through overhang past bolt on central buttress to bolt belay.

FA: Geoff, amp; Maureen Little & Pat Ford, Jun 2017

Mixed trad 110m, 4, 3
19 Grand Design

The left wall of Kestrel. Scramble up the first 3 metres to the alcove. Small corner then past bolt to seam and follow this for 18m to join arete, eventually meeting Skylark for the final few metres

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jul 2015

Mixed trad 54m, 1
19 Subsonic moose

After the rooflet on Supersonic Moose, continue straight into Kestral. It's the obvious thing to do.

FA: Wendy Eden & Louise Shapherd, 15 Sep 2018

Trad
19 Supersonic Moose

As Flying Moose except keep left at top and gain crack in overlap 3 metres right of Kestrel. A trad anchor can be built here. Up through crack and gain rising right traverse to easy stance then up the left facing corner of Surfacing before avoiding the boulders above by stepping left into Kestrel for the final 8 metres or so to the Kestrel rap chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jo Lee, 28 Mar 2018

Trad 55m
19 Pfeffernusse

Start 5 metres right of the Kestrel ramp beneath a bolt. Climb directly up past bolt and wall above to a more slabby section veering left to easy stance and shallow corner. Directly up to rap chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018

Mixed trad 23m, 1
19 Velvet Green

A good single pitch to a rap anchor or an approach to the pitches above, The first climb in the area, it was filthy, the exact start wasn't clear and it had a weak second pitch. Now the first pitch is cleaned and re-instated and we'll just forget about pitch 2.

Start between Kestrel and Yo Yo.

Up past BR towards little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to major overlap at 25m, moving right below this to rap anchors.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Trad 25m
19 Straight Eight

Quite pleasant climbing.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.

  1. 12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.

  2. 30m (16) Move left and finish up the arete left of Phoenix (the original finish of Problem Child).

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 42m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
19 Greasy Burritos

A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor.

FA: David Gallagher & fan club, 1992

Trad 28m
19 Little By Little

Nice technical climbing on quality rock with good protection. Start on wide ledge, 4m right of Broken Song. Up past 2 bolts, continue up on easier ground to final headwall, trending rightwards up to lower off.

FA: Maureen, Geoff & Maureen Little, Aug 2017

Mixed trad 32m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Senior Citizens Wall
19 Down on Your Knees

The central line on the upper wall. Start up 'Senior Citizens' or 'The Gentle Touch' and belay on good ledge to left of line.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983

Trad 15m
19 Rat on Roller Skates

There's a gnarly old gumtree about 15 metres right of Take Me To Elwood. Climb the smooth streak.

FA: Dave Mudie & Dennis Kemp, 1987

Trad 20m
19 Bela Lugosi Meets the Natimuk Kids

Start below the hole. Up to hole stepping left at this point and up through steep stuff. Wander up to belay as for 'An Alien Cut My Rope'.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1994

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Roadside Crag
V1 V1 problem
Boulder 4m
V1 Jug Haul

Sit start on the jugs, heading straight upwards.

Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V1 Waterboys
Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Woody
V1 Buzz

Start as for “the woody”, top out between the branch and the knob.

Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
19 A Cut Above

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble & Jane Wilkinson, 1984

Trad 30m

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