|North America United States Utah Maple Canyon The Upper Road Early Bird|
1 5.10c 30m
2 5.8 35m
3 5.6 15m
4 5.0 15m
5 5.9 10m
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|20|| ★ Brit Milah
High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.
Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.
FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 9 Jul 2011
|19 R|| ★ Slip Knot
Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977
|20|| ★★★ Little Thor
The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.
Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.
FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965
FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V1|| V1 Problem (a)
|V1|| ★ V1 Problem (b)
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|19||★ Sausage Of The Century
Bouldery start then L into the line.
Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.
FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981
|20||★ The Wizard of Id
Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981
Past the alarming jammed blocks forming a roof, R and up weakness past ledge to top.
Start under the jammed blocks in the overhangs R of 'The Wizard Of Id'.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
|19||The Last In Line
Start just R of 'Yakshini'.
FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
|20||★★ Christian Crack
Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of 'Colosseum Wall' - this is the left one.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966
FFA: Joe Friend, 1974
The corner then finish R.
Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.
FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990
|19||Roman Ite Domum
The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.
Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996
|20||I've Got A Big Honker
The usual claim of those who don't...
Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.
FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
|19||I've Been a Bunny
Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.
Start: Start R of MC at jugs.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|20||★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof.
Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977
|19||Bridge of Thighs
Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.
Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.
Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).
FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981
|20||A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.
Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.
FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|20||The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.
Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|20||Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000
|20||Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|19||When Mark Was King
Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.
FA: Brian Fish, 1982
|19||Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!
Start: Start at the arete R of RT.
FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
|19 R||★ Coke Adds Life
Head diagonally L (bold but not the crux), then the flake.
Alternatively, head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove which has some gear, then back left.
Start: Start R of S, 1m L of small tree.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981
Face, around L side of block, wall above.
Start: Start 1m L of R.
FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.
Start: Start L of CC.
FA: Nick White (solo), 1990
|20||★ Shakin' Stevens
Up to the top of the flake, R, up.
Start: Start 2m R of BC.
FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.
Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.
Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.
FA: Mike Law & solo, 1981
The grey wall.
Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
|20||So Help Me God
Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.
Start: Start 5m R of TS.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|20||★★ Pilot Error
More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.
Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.
FA: Ian Anger, 1980
Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.
FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979
|19||★★ Togrul Khan
Pull through verhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.
Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977
|19||★ Daily Planet RHV
From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.
FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
|20||★★ Lex Luthor
Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.
Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.
FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|20||★★ Excuse me Lex
Link up of Excuse me while I belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20
|19||★ Excuse Me While I Belch
Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.
Start: Start as for E.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|19||★ The Last Disco Dancer
Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015
|20 R||Permanent Wave
Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.
FA: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|20||Nanga Parbat Solo
Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.
Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.
FA: Mike Law & solo, 1982
|20||★★★ Wizard of lce
The diagonal elephant's butt crack, classic of the genre.
Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975
Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.
The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966
FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973
Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few meters right of Electra.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
Gain striking grey prow, veer R at the top.
Start: Start 8m L of SDV.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Start at the small flake but step L and then up.
Start: Start 2m R of CS.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1995
Straight up the flake.
Start: Start as for V.
FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995
|20||Critical Realists Are Chastened Moderns
Start on the L to gain the diagonal.
Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.
FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|20||Beyond Good and Evil
Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.
FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle|
Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak.
Start: Start as for FP.
FA: Kevin lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|19||What Is Carborized?
Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.
FA: Jon Muir, Brigitte Muir (DS done by Louise Shepherd & Enga Lokey), 1994
|19||A Twist of Lemming
Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995
Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Matt Taylor, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.
Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.
FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.
Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994
|30m, 2, 3|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing.
Start: Start as for 'Keyboard'.
FA: John Stone & Richard Evans.., 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall|
Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.
Start: On the left side of the grey pedestal.
FA: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976
Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm
FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976
|20||★★★ Tannin Direct
Makes a good change.
FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985
|19||★ F Sharp
This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.
Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof.
Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH and finish up Jen's Roof.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V1||★ Over the eye
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.
FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995
|19||Red Valiant Charger
Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.
FA: Smith, Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995
Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.
FA: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982
Try not to pike right.
Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.
FA: H & L, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
|19||★ Nut Case
As for W but then follow the R crack to ledge. Step up R onto R wall, over roof into steep groove/crack.
Start: Start as for W.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974
A traverse of Brick Wall. A strange concept that has been superseded by Brickeasy. Start as for Brick Dust
Up Brick Dust for one move, then r across Squeakeasy to easier traversing.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975
Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!
Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.
Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.
FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974
FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling, 1974
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|20||Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start
Boulder the start...
FA: Michael Woodrow, 1991
|19||★★ Possibly Beautiful
If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky.
Start 1m R of Golden Fleece.
Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.
FA: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979
|20||★ Mind Games
Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978
|19||Going to Sydney
The wall just right of Dylan.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984
The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.
FA: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar|
The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.
Start: Start on the next slim pillar R of Stoat Wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & John Smart, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam|
|20||★★ Bam Bam
Start: The R crack.
FA: Rolang Pauligk, 1968
FFA: Nic Taylor, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
The curving corner.
Start: Start at the middle of the wall.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|20||Ouah Con C'est Edlinger
The thin crack in the front face of the block.
Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983
|20||★ A Boy and His Dog
To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.
Start: Start at the top of DS.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1985
|19||Murph Sports a Sparkler
Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.
Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.
FA: Chris Baxter & Malcolm Matheson, 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
|19||★ Black Dog
... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.
Start just L of The Hard Ears.
Up over a bulge.
FA: Rod Young & Peter Watson, 1978
With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!
Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.
FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"
Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.
Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.
FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999
The R-leaning sickle.
Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978
Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.
Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978
The thin crack.
Start: Start at the R end of the wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
|20||★★ Electric Warrior
An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high.
Start below the major corner crack on the right hand side of the wall.
Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976
|19||Up In My Bedroom
Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top.
Start: As you walk off the top of 'Mari Buttress' you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down.
The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.
FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
|20||★ John's Corner Direct
From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.
|19||Change of Plans, Leg it!
Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.
FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999
|20||Entering the Gelf Zone
On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.
FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
|20||Piece of Shit
Traverse L past F and up the 'Intransience' face (see the 'Cecilia Wall' area).
Start: Start as for F.
FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985
Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the 'Intransience' face.
Start: Start at the far L end of 'Skyline Walls'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979
The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.
Start: Start just R of F.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979
|19||★ Bit Torrent
Start as for 'Copyright' and continue up crack direct to top half of 'Bootleg'.
FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison & Nic Kiraly, 2010
Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the 'thread' to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better.
Start: Start just R of Copyright.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979
Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.
FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
|19||★ I Am Not A Pork Chop||15m, 4|