|Europe Spain Asturias Valles del Trubia Marabio El Bordillo y Artificial|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|24||★ Repo Man
Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.
Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.
FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|24|| ★ Scorpio
Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998
|23|| ★★ Sagittarian
Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.
FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
|23|| ★★ Little Thor Direct Finish
After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.
FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988
|24|| ★ Look Sharp
Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979
|24|| ★ Remembrance Day
From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.
Start: as for 'Problematic'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V4|| ★ V4 Problem
|23|| ★★★ Brain Death
Follow the wide crack the whole way up.
FA: Henry Barber
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|23||★ Vogon Destructor Fleet||20m, 4|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.
Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.
FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995
|23||★ Wingspan||10m, 1|
|24||★ Drowsy Drivers Die
Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.
FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
|24 R||★ Petro-Fy
Arete with poor pro.
Start 3m R of 'Petronius'
FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|23||★ spiderman savior
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully|
|23||Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983
Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.
Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981
|23 R||Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.
Start: Start 2m R of LF.
FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|24||Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.
Start: Start R of CLC.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|24||★★ A Loaded Gun
Flakes to BR then R and up.
Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.
FA: Roland Foster & Allan Wilkie, 1982
This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.
Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.
FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016
|23 R||Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.
Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981
|23||★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.
FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020
|23 R||★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. NOTE: The carrot bolt was very dodgy and has been removed. It needs to be replaced (and repositioned) when anyone can be bothered.
Start: Start R of KR.
FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982
|23||Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2016
|23||★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.
Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.
FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall|
|24||Wasters in Love
The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.
FA: Simon Mentz, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
|23 R||★ Even More Moves
Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.
Start: Start behind the tree, 1m R of CAL.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985
|23||The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.
Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.
FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983
|24||★★ Slap Strafe Jerk
Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.
Start: Start as for TOR.
FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983
|23||★★★ Dead Metaphor
Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.
|23||★★ Beside Myself
Start: Start 1.5m R of S.
FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982
|30m, 2, 2|
Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
|24||★ Use Me and Abuse Me
Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"
Start: Start in the cave L of CC.
The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.
FA: Simon Mentz, Simon Carter & Richard Henderson, 1991
|23||English Ethics LHF
As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.
Start: Start as for CC.
FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
|23||Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.
Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.
FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989
Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.
Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981
|24||★★ Astral Plane
Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.
Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
|23||★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.
Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1977
|23||★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.
Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.
FA: Greg Child, 1978
|23||★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.
Start: Start R of S.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980
Start: Start as for AF.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977
|24||I Dunno Direct Start
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
|24 X||★ Lois Lane
Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!
Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979
|23 R||Beasley St
Boldly up face to bolt.
Start: Start just R of C.
FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|23||★★ Pain Street
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.
Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'.
|23 X||Unguarded Moments
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!
Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck|
|24||★ It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.
Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.
Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966
FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.
FA: Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow, 1991
|35m, 2, 1|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
As for 'Muldoon' for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to continue up 'Muldoon' to it's rap anchors.
Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|23||★ Crows in the Snow
Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.
Poor rock and gear.
Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.
FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982
FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982
Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981
|24||★★ Female Friends
An exciting face climb that is very sustained.
Start: Start as for GG.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981
Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.
Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982
Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.
Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.
FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992
|24 R||★★ Telemachus Direct
Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|23 R||Blood and Iron
Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.
FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992
Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.
Start: Start under the arch.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982
|24 R||Mr Sheen
Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.
Start: Start 2m R of SDV.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Malcolm Matheson, 1981
|23||Throw Me No Beers
Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.
Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle|
The speckled face which may have a fixed wire.
Start: Start up around L of FP.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Warwick Baird, 1982
|23||★★ Finger Prince
Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds.
Start: Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.
FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (Direct Start by Nick White & Andy Pollitt), 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
|24||Iron Void Variant Start
Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.
Start: Start 8m R of 'Tuby Tuba'.
FA: Steve Monks, 1992
|23||★★ Iron Void
Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.
FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
|23||★ A Plaything For the Missus
Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR.
Start: Start up L of SO.
FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992
|24||★★★ Spring Offensive
BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR.
Start: Start in gully L of F.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Evelyn Lees (Direct Finish by Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow), 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|24 R||Private Assassin
Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Esther Renita Thompson, 2002
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
|24||★★ The Philosopher
Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
|23||★ Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes?
Start: Start left of 'Diapason' 2m right 'Ejaculation' beneath obvious overlap.
FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall|
|24||★ Abbie Normal
Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.
Start: Just L of Wyrd.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002
|23||★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Great moves on thin face cruxy past second bolt, finish straight up or traverse to finish wraith or tannin
Start: Just right of Wraith.
FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir.., 1986
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
|23||A Concerted Effort Direct
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
|23||★ Little Aesthetics
Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.
Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.
FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995
|23||★★ Golden Triangle
May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.
Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.
Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.
|20m, 23, 1|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
Start 3m right of Mind Games.The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming.
Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1976
FA: DS Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984
|23||Horrorscope Direct Start
Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope
FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothey & john smoothy, 1984
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam|
Thin crack to ledge.
Start: Start in the gully R of 'Bam Bam', on the L wall.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
|23||Wall of the Early Morning Wusses
Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.
Saunter on up.
FA: Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1978
|24||★★ Life in the Fast Lane
Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.
Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978
|24||★★ Die Loaded
Start beneath the RH crack.
Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.
FA: Greg Child, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall|
Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up.
Start: Start 1m L of H.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Mark Walters, 1985
Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think.
FFA: Eddy Mofadin, 2014
The flared handcrack.
Start: Start 4m L of DF.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980
|24||★ Deep Throat
The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.
Start: Start 1m R of DF.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
|23||★★ Poly Evans
Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy.
|24 X||Run It Out, Sucker
Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.
FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985
|23 R||★ Vacancy
Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs.
Although it may look mossy, it was brushed clean in late 2015.
Start 2m R of 'Devoid'. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.
FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979
|24||Another One Bites the Dust
Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.
FA: Mike Graham, 1980
|23 R||★ Moving Right Along
Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D.
Start: Start 8m L of D.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
|24 R||★ Split Level
Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.
Start: Start as for JC.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979
|24||★★ Guide for the Perplexed
Start 3m R of 'Johns Corner' at carrot bolt (bring a very tall friend to clip it for you), face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990
|24||★★ I-GoB-BA Link-Up
Really very good. A link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes. Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest, then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB of Blind Ambition.
(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent)
FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997
Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall.
Start: Start 10m R, and down from, 'Cecilia'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
|23||★ Thin Air
Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.
Start: Start 1m R of T.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982
|23||★★ Revolution Rock
Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left.
Start: Start down R of 'Copyright' in small gully.
FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983