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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
9 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
9 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
9 Craddock Crack

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Trad 13m
8 Marshmallow Sea DS

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Trad 14m
9 Sickle

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

Trad 13m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
8 R The Match

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
9 Gri Grieving

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

FA: Dan Flynn & Wendy Eden, Sep 2018

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
9 Tingles

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
9 Butte

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 16 Oct 2011

Trad 28m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
8 Tantalus

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

  1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

  2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands & Alan Marsland, 1965

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
9 Drum Major

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'.

Start: Start R of T.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Bernie Lyons, 1965

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
8 Diapason
1 7 20m
2 6 25m
3 8 10m

The first climb done in the 'Organ Pipes'. A very pleasant outing.

Start: Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

  1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

  2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

  3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963

Trad 55m, 3
9 Keyboard

Deep crack on left side of 'Conifer Crack' buttress. Take some large gear.

Start: In the gully between the 'Diapason' and 'Conifer Crack' pipes.

FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter., 1968

Trad 25m
9 Conifer Crack
1 9 40m
2 9 40m

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks.

Start: 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

  1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

  2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

FA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964

Trad 80m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
9 Bass Clef

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish.

Start: Below the next buttress right of the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe.

Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit, now done as part of Jen's Roof ) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

FA: Ian Speedie & Michael Stone, 1964

Trad 66m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
9 Good As Gold

Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

FA: Tim Harris & Dave Millard

Trad 15m
9 Anne

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

FA: David Millard, 2004

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
9 Exploding Tomatoes

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Noel Coward & Peter Watling, 1994

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress
8 Echo

This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present.

FA: Troy Surkitt & Dan Cross, 30 Apr 2015

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
9 Hope

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage, 1968

Trad 16m
9 Gabriel’s Oboe

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

FA: Pete & Meg Holmes., 2001

Trad 12m
9 Gaucherie

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 26 Feb 2012

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
8 Merry Go Round

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 25m
8 Emohawk

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
9 Diagonal Crack
Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
9 Gazollika

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968

Trad 20m
8 Blinky Bill

This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new.

Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 24 Jan 2017

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
9 R Ali's Face

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1964

Trad 50m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
8 Dodgy Brothers

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 10m
8 Lobbail

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 21 Apr 2014

Trad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
9 Eagle Cleft Variant
Trad 120m
8 Kestrel Alternate Finish

An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade.

From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse.

Trad 42m
9 The Eighth
1 8 24m
2 9 25m
3 9 30m
4 8 20m
  1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

  2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

  3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

  4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963

Trad 99m, 4
8 The Eighth Direct Finish

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964

Trad 60m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
8 Pan Groove

A gentle romp that could serve as an alternative start to The Dribble.

Up the Pan Grove slab to whitish blocks at 15m. Instead of moving right (as for Pan Grove), continue following the left-leaning groove. When the groove peters out, step slightly right and finish in the obvious groove. Note: the steep bulging crack on the right is lovely to start, but the finishing blocks are a bit dodgy. Belay on the Senior Citizens terrace and descend Pan Grove.

FA: Keith Lockwood & John Smart, 20 May 2018

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
8 Boundary Rider

A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.

  1. 23m As for The Flue – the major chimney left of the grotto. Belay at pre-existing rap station.

  2. 12m Up steepening prow, past left side of roof, to another rap station, as for the easy top of Llareggub that no-one does anymore.

  3. 10m Easily to top of pinnacle for spectacular views. Descend north side of pinnacle into Pan Grove.

FA:

Trad 45m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
8 The Skeleton Coast

Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.

  1. 40m Climb clean rock on left side of the usually-dry little waterfall. Continue easily up and left to base of ridge.

  2. 20m Up to short orange corner, step right onto prow of ridge, and up easily to big ledge.

  3. 15m Bridge line 2m left of steep orange corner, and continue up nice wall on left side of the ridge to the big terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 27 May 2015

Trad 75m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall
9 Doo Voo

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

FA: Allan Hope & Peter Watling, 1991

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
8 Water Wings

5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 7 Jun 2014

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
8 Spiral Staircase

Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

  1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

  2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

  3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

  4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

Trad 100m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
8 Sombrero

Not great.

Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it.

FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967

Trad 84m
8 Long John Silver

Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015

Trad 30m
8 Pieces of Eight

The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
9 Girl Talk

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
8 Barefoot in the Park

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
8 Teddy Bear's Picnic

A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off.

FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 23 Nov 2013

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
9 Two Bob Each Way

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
9 Kermit

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1995

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
8 Beer and Trembling

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

FA: Greg Pritxchard & Nicki Sunderland, 1992

Trad 10m
8 Falling Numbers

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993

Trad 20m
8 Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area
9 Siren
1 4 25m
2 8 35m
3 8 35m
4 6 25m
5 9 25m

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

  2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

  3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

  4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

  5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

Trad 150m, 5
9 Tauraroa

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch.

FA: John Bennett & MUMC team. 1960s, 2000

Trad 120m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower
9 Arachnus
1 8 40m
2 8 21m
3 9 14m
4 8 30m

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately).

Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section, and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

  2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

  3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

  4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

FA: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964

Trad 110m, 4
9 R Arachnus Variant (Minerva)
1 8 40m
2 8 12m
3 9 23m
4 8 30m

A very popular variant on 'Arachnus', but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

Start: Start as for 'Arachnus'.

  1. 40m (8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge.

  2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

  3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

  4. 30m (8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

FA: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965

Trad 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
8 Henry's Sample Is Missing

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

Trad 12m
8 Striding Ridge

Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.

  1. 40m Climb A Whale of a Time until level with the big terrace on the right. Step left and belay on the shoulder of the ridge.

  2. 25m Diagonally left to the base of the left-leaning line (the right-hand line is Court Jester – steep and loose).

  3. 25m Up left-leaning line, to finish steeply up right wall – highlighted by a classic mantelshelf and incut jugs.

  4. 20m Easily up ridge to terrace.

  5. 30m As for 5th pitch of Beau Geste.

FA: Stev Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 15 Aug 2016

Trad 140m, 5
9 Beau Geste
1 9 50m
2 9 13m
3 9 18m
4 9 25m
5 7 30m

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

  1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

  2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

  3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

  4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

  5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

Trad 140m, 5
9 Tale of Woe

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

  1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

  2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

  3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1973

Trad 85m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall
8 Cold Episode of Influenza

Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert.

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Heath Row Buttress
8 Heath Row

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

Trad 48m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
8 Touchwood

Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

  1. 35m (8) Potter up the easy-angled ground for about 15m until a corner leads up and can move around right onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to small stance above arete.

  2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and follow the flake (could extend the previous pitch to top of flake and belay level with ceiling of Fiddler On The Roof) . From the centre of the wall go up and slightly left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974

Trad 70m, 2
8 Lone Pine Corner

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Kachoong Area
9 Moritz

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
8 Better Not Peak

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue
8 Oompaloompa

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Trad 8m
8 The First Kiddy Climb

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed)

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Trad 8m
9 Poles Apart

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Hum Terrace
9 Munchkin

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for 'Menagerie' followed this line but the orginal 'Menagerie' description clearly places it further right.

Start: Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting)

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 20m
9 Menagerie

Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left..

Start: Start right of largest conifer at short red groove.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area
8 Silver Bullet

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Winterset Wall
9 Wall Flower

Shabby left wall of broken corner immediately left of 'Winterset'. 'Contrived' up middle of slab to finish just left of roof.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre
9 He Certainly Is

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

  1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of 'The Bishop's Crook' and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

  2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999

Trad 40m, 2
8 Twinkle Twinkle

Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of 'Guiding Light'. Essentially provides an easier finish to 'He Certainly Is'. Start in the gully uphill from 'The Bishop’s Crook'.

  1. 18m Up nice grey wall opposite 'Guiding Light', with a step right 3-4m up. Belay on big ledge.

  2. 14m Short crack, then follow right-trending ramp to the base of the prominent corner.

  3. 18m Climb the shorter (and easier) corner on the right, then trend up right to top-out where Guiding Light finishes.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 24 Sep 2015

Trad 50m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area
9 Hell's Bells

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Trad 13m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Deacon Area
9 The Priest

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

FA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967

Trad 20m
9 Gloop

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

FA: Eddie Ozols (solo), 1978

Trad 16m
9 The Deacon

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

FA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre
8 The Devil's Advocate

Climb short crack 1 metre right of 'Exodus' to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the 'Salem' wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Trad 45m
8 Pete Made Us Do It

Space filler.

FA: Bendigo CAE Students, 1990

Trad 30m
9 The Parson's Nose

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of 'Mason's Apron' ; there's a small, chipped mark near the ground..

  1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

  2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Glen Corcoran & Phil Hay, 1973

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Christmas Walls
8 Ode To Mistletoe

Start 3m left of 'First Noel'.

FA: Vince Waters, Noel Whiteside & Iain Sedgman., 2002

Trad 22m
8 Victoria C. Woodhull

Up the line to a left facing corner. Move left onto the slab and up avoiding the corner to finish up a crack/groove.

Start: A few metres left of Ode to 'Mistletoe' and about 4m right

of a large old conifer.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning., 2003

Trad 24m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
8 Sporus

Up groove. At halfway ledge cross over gully and finish steeply up wide crack on left.

Start: Start at groove on left side of face about 12-13 metres left of pinnacle. Inital S (don\'t get on 'Sundowner' by mistake).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1967

Trad 33m
9 Up Where We Belong

Short, orange corner 15m L of 'Little Ripper', then L to grey, L-facing corner. Up this to tree.

FA: Mike Ashton & Jenny Ashton, 1995

Trad 23m
9 Little Ripper

Start in the centre of the pinnacle up and left of Zorba, about 3 metres left of Leprechaun. Up the face just right of the corner to big horizontal then up central crack. Roped scramble off back necessary.

FA: Alec Campbell & John Veasey, 1967

Trad 28m
9 Carthaginian

Takes the major right-facing corner that starts from the ledge 25 metres up the cliff.The first pitch is rubbish but the corner is superb. Originally graded 9.

  1. 25m (-) Ascend rubbishy face to ledge below corner.

  2. 25m (11) The excellent right-facing corner with a tough start.

FA: Alec Campbell & John Veasey, 1967

Trad 50m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Pop Wall
8 Country Cousin

Rubbishy corner just left of chimney to ledge. Finish up face-crack.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs
9 Casper

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1989

Trad 10m
8 Windy
Trad 35m
8 Spirits In The Sky

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

Trad 18m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Warden Wall
8 Photographers Solo

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentry Wall
9 The First Post

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock
8 Nose Hairs

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives
9 The Sermon
Trad 100m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mt Emu
9 Vaseline
Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Crows Nest
9 The Tight Skinned Monkey
Trad 61m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff
8 Mustang
Trad 57m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls
8 Hop Hop For Cheese

You would have to be extremely desperate.

FA: Geelan, 1991

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero 4 Cornered Crag
8 Future Legend

The scrubby second corner, R of Waiting.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Trad 14m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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