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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

Trad 20m
11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

Trad 20m
11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

Trad 20m
12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 52m
12 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Trad 20m
12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
12 What Have the Romans Done for Us?

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
12 Welease Wodger

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Welease Witchard

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Incontinentia Buttocks

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
11 Hail Spagnum

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
12 Left Hand Variant

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977

Trad 24m
11 Right Hand Variant

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
12 What's My Motivation

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
12 Nempnett Thrubwell

Start: Opposite VIMH.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Grope Lane

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Dance of the Flaming Anus
Trad 10m
12 Uncle Fistula
Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
11 Fireman Don't Got Convictions

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989

Trad 45m
12 Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989

Trad 14m
11 Bottoms Up

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016

Trad 14m
11 Wash Your Hands

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Jul 2016

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
12 Pied Piper

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
12 Groucho

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
11 Gummo

Line 1m R of Groucho.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
11 Lizard Procrastination

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

  1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

  2. (11) Up

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Guild, 1964

Trad 50m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
12 Clytemnaestra

The slick chimney.

Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.

FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1964

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
11 Agamemnon
  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
12 Laughing Stock

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Trad 12m
12 Breeding Stock

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Pual Hoskins, 1995

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle
11 Tubby Tuba

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1966

Trad 24m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
12 Castrati

The arete.

Start: Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of 'Organ Pipes Gully'.

FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1987

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
11 Harpsichord

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Piccolo Pipe
11 Piccolo
1 11 18m
2 11 15m

'Piccolo Pipe' The second pipe with the narrow front.

  1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the 'pipe' past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

  2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into 'Organ Pipes Gully' to get off.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965

Trad 33m, 2
11 Piccolo Direct
Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
12 Fugue

Another gully.

FA: Bernie Lyons & Steve Craddock., 1965

Trad 63m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
11 Didgeridoo

On the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe. Veers left from 'Horn Piece' near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

Start: As for 'Horn Piece'.

FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
12 Bag Pipes

A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Jul 2017

Trad 30m
11 Deflated

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

  1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

  2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

FA: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981

Trad 35m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
12 Shit View

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard., 1995

Trad 15m
12 Great View

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Trad 15m
12 Keeping the Tailend Off Strike

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

FA: Pritchard, Lattanzio & Hoskins, 1995

Trad 15m
12 Mr. Blobby

Start: The left most line.

FA: Hoskins, Lattanzio & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
11 Pedro

Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Start: Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start).

FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 36m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam
12 Rush

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

FA: Richard Smith, Eric Laidlaw & Greg Pritchard, 2001

Trad 15m
12 With an F!

The arete left of 'Duck Off'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000

Trad 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall
12 Dhole

Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking.

Start: Start as for C.

FA: Digby Gotts & Peter Watling, 1970

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
12 Please Be Kind

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

FA: Allen Hope & Bill Andrews, 2000

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall
12 Channel Vision

The central crack.

Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall.

FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
12 A Little Ray of Sunshine

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
12 Lloyd Williams' Nose

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
12 Mortality

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress
12 Past & Present

This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face.

FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 8 Mar 2012

Trad 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
12 Zorro

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 12m
12 Faith

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Rob Taylor, 1968

Trad 18m
12 Prudity

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

FA: Ray Lassman & Keith Lockwood, 1981

Trad 18m
12 Treachery

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Trad 18m
11 Heatherbell

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1993

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
12 Humpty Dumpty

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
12 Pure and Simple

Supped to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
11 Freckled Duck

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of 'Tres Hard'.

Trad 26m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
12 Eat Your Greens

Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 15 Dec 2015

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
11 Red Parrot Chasm

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Trad 55m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
12 Josie's Climb

1 (30m) 12: Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory to rap anchor on ledge. 2 (20m) 11: Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

Start: Start at the left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the 'Reaper Buttress' page).

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

FA: Josie Ley & late 80s, 2000

Trad 50m, 2
11 Transylvania

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch (incorrectly marked in topo) so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy.

Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning aganst the cliff.

  1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Fiona Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1999

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 1
11 Vampire Arete

This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut.

From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andy Schmutter, Steve Findlay & Ken Wilkinson, 31 Jan 2017

Trad 40m
12 Native Companion

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Sonia Jones, 1989

Trad 25m
11 Dracula
1 11 25m
2 8 15m

Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

Start: Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block.

  1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

FA: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965

Trad 40m, 2
11 Red Parrot Jism

This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
12 Troglodytes

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

  1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

  2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

  3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

  4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 4 Mar 2017

Trad 120m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
12 Dunes
1 136m
2 6m
3 12 40m
4 27m
5 10m

The original version.

Start: Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right).

  1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

  2. 6m (-) Up the chimney. (In Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman skipped the pitch 2 chimney by going straight up from the p1 slabs, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (grade 9)).

  3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

  4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

  5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 220m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
12 Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Mixed trad 30m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
12 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up 'Orpheus').

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

Trad 80m, 4
12 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 66m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
11 Fear of Praying

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Roger Murphy, 1976

Trad 33m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress
12 Bard
1 12 43m
2 12 12m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m
5 12 30m

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965

Trad 120m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor
11 Bluff Minor

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 55m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
11 Open Sesame

A pleasant link from Fliners Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, and 3 or 4 metres right of the slimy access corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Matisse, Amy & PLC girls, 23 Nov 2016

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major East Face
11 Blockbuster

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: 1964

Trad 30m
11 Whiskers

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & ANdrew Smith, 1966

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
11 The Lost Chord

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Felicity Rousseaux, 1993

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
11 Eagle Cleft
1 2 30m
2 11 30m
3 10 30m
4 10 28m

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

  1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

  2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

  3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

  4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 120m, 4
12 Hawk
1 10 46m
2 12 25m
3 12 30m
4 25m

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

  1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

  2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

  3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

  4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Bennett & Greg Martin (alt), 1964

Trad 130m, 4
11 Phoenix

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

  1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

  2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

FA: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 98m, 3
11 The Eighth Direct
  1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

  2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

  3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

FA: John McLean & Richard Schmidt.., 1966

Trad 96m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
11 The Dribble
1 8 35m
2 11 20m
3 10 50m
4 7 15m

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

  1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

  2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

  3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

  4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve Mid 70s., 2000

Trad 120m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
11 Trapeze

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
12 The Flue

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholz., 1967

Trad 30m
11 Bastress

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

FA: Rod Harris & Dave Neilson., 1967

Trad 36m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Pan Grove
12 Golden Oldies

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Jack Lewis, 1986

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
12 Point the Bone

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall
12 Goanna

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

Trad 60m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall
12 Come Clean

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

FA: Jack Lewis & Michael Persin, 1995

Trad 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
12 Hurricane Lamp Cracks
1 12 25m
2 11 20m
3 11 20m
4 11 10m
5 8 43m

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible.

Start: Start at the chimney 7 metres right of "Five Fingered Mary".

  1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

  2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

  3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

  4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

  5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of "Spiral Staircase" and may be split as for that climb.

FA: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 120m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
12 Shitty Nappies

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992

Trad 15m
12 Lights in the Sky

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 15m
12 Bites in the Pie

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993

Trad 10m
11 R.I.P. Sludge

This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top.

Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Suzie Frost & Dave Clarke, 1993

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag
12 Home for Tea

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall
12 Prendergast

Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up.

Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Doug Palmen, 1977

Trad 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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