|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an under cling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.
FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dec 2017
Start at crack line 2 metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dec 2017
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall|
|16||★ Rubbery Under Arms
Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.
FA: Michael Creek, 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|16|| Pot Boiler
Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.
FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984
Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984
|17|| Pot Boiler Right Hand Variant
Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.
Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.
|16 R|| ★★ Marmot's Mall
The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.
Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.
FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966
|17|| Hog Jowls
Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V0|| V0 problem on left
|V0|| ★ V0 Juggy Arete
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
The line just L of the arete.
Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.
FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992
|16||Nothing Too Serious
Short corner then R and up.
Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.
FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966
LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.
Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.
FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970
The bottomless corner.
Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.
FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975
The right line.
FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|16||★★ tool bender
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.
FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Dec 2016
|16||★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.
Start: Start 1m R of GM.
FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|16||Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner.
Start: Start just R of arete.
FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982
Up then step L and follow the continuation.
Start: Start 2m R of SL.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|17||Ed's Super Sarnie
Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected.
Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'.
FA: Ed Darling & Gareth Llewellyn, 1997
|16||★ Scylla Alt Finish
A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall|
The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base.
FA: Philip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|17||Tractatus Logica Ludicrous
The thin seam.
Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.
FA: Robert Leech & Pritchard, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver|
|16||Trapped Like a Rat In a Corner
An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.
FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998
The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.
FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
The face - take care with delicate rock.
Start: Start 1.5m R of R.
FA: Mike Law & friends, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
|17||★ Mexican Madness
Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 19 Mar 2015
|16||Shades Of Grey
Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 19 Mar 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.
Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.
FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1974
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|17||★ Limbo (Baby Limbo)
It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
|16||★★ Bat Out Of Hell
A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.
Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.
FA: Loughran + ? & late 80s.
FA: Kieran, 2000
|17||★★ Surface To Air
Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.
Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains.
Start: Start at the chimney between Iphigenia Buttress and 'Clytemnaestra Buttress' (ie start as for Clytemnaestra).
FA: Reg Williams & Peter Jackson, 2000
Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.
Start: Start as for C.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|16||★★★ Men in Tights
Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.
|17||★ Cruxless Knickers
The thin crack, careful of the loose block.
Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1978
|16||Running From the Martian
The crack R of a bush.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990
|17||Suck Got Sick
Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.
Start: Start as for RftM.
FA: Sam Blainey & S Madoc, 1990
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
R and up at top.
Start: Start R of TFoC.
FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995
Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
|17||Born to be Mild
Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!
FA: Douglas Hockly & Edwin Irvine, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|17||★ Saint Peter
The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
|16||★ Stentor 3rd Pitch
Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Essentially the right arete of D Minor.
Start 2m R of D Minor.
Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.
FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff , 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
|17 R||★★ Stentor
Subtle line on left side of the 'D Major' Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.
Start: Front left side of 'D Major'
FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980
A few good moves up the front of the 'D Major' buttress.
Start: Start at the lowest point of the 'D Major' Buttress.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rod Young, 1976
Not really inferior to 'Libretto'.
Start: As for 'D Major'.
FA: Unknown., 2000
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section.
Start: Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of 'D Major'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968
|17||It Could Be Worse
How? The initial crack of 'Ejaculation' and then straight up from the plaque.
FA: Brigitte & Jon Muir.., 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
The central line up the 'Conifer Crack' buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux.
Start: Just right of 'Conifer Crack'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Neil Barr., 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation. It is possible to do a harder finish (18) by traversing across the blank wall to the final flake system of F Sharp but there doesn't seem to be much point. This variant by Lockwood and Ed Neve 23/7/1977. Second pitch is complete rubbish so abseil/lower 30m from chains into gully 5m above ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974
The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at 'Arapiles' that he would not consider repeating.
Start: As for Jen's Roof.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981
|17||★★ Discord Direct
As appears in new mentz/tempest select guide (2008).
Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.
FA: Digby Gotts (Direct Start)
FA: Richard Curtis & Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish), 1980
Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.
FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 21 Dec 2015
A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall.
Start: Start on the grey buttress just right of 'Toccata'.
FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett.
Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 23 Sep 2017
|17||★ Hindenburg Disaster
Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.
Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.
Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.
FA: FRancine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V0||★ Ear of the Bunny
|V0||★ Face and scoop
Over the nose
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left What You Like|
Climb is on the east face, facing the Pines. Starts easily to shallow cave at 6m. Leaving the cave, the gear is rather thin and at the grade.
FA: Lachlan Brown & Pete Holmes, 6 Mar 2012
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
|17||Blue Chevrolet Ballerina
Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.
Start: Start 5m down R of OL.
FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1982
|17||Diet of Worms
The wide L-facing flake-crack.
Start: Start 4m L of MYC.
FA: FRA Miller & Dodd, 1982
|16||The Day Bryn's Dad Got Scared
Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.
Up right side of flake.
FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall|
The shallow groove, then the L crack and the L side of the flake to a corner and face on the south wall.
Start: Start on L edge of 'Brick Wall'.
FA: Mike Law & Peter Watson., 1976
|16||★ Brick Dust
Pale waterstreak into thrutch crack.
Start on blocky ledge halfway up the left side of Brick Wall - i.e. off the top of the pinnacle just ledt of Squeakeasy.
FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling (aided on peg - Baxter freed it later), 1974
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|17||★ Sue's Climb
Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.
Start: Start 2m L of 'Pedro'.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984
|16||★ Jed's Climb
Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013
Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.
Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966
There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.
FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966
Start: This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.
FA: Hoskins & Lattanzio, 1995
Stronlgy suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same. This climb is up behind 'Golden Fleece Wall', starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of 'Dylan'.
Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulg, finger-crack and on to top.
FA: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 2008
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
|17||★★ Moby Dick
The obvious flake crack on the wall facing 'Golden Fleece Wall'.
Start: Start on S side of the pinnacle.
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst, 1966
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall|
|16||★ Where Weasels Dare
Originally described as SSO RHV.
Start as for The Stoat Steps Out.
Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar|
|16||The Height Below
The crack then the arete.
Start: Start 2m L of D.
FA: Keith Egerton & Russell Crow, 1983
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall|
|16||Rambo Survival Route
Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.
Start 2m L GC.
Crack, seam, ramp, wall.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Bert Levy, 1981
|17||★ Golliwogs Cakewalk
The weakness in the slab then L into chimney
Start: Start just L of 'Coyote'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|17||★★ Gollywog's Cake icing (direct finish)
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
The short flake with a bouldery start.
Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Roger Greatrick, 1984
|16||The Crying Game
A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.
Start as for SS and TJ.
From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.
FA: Andy Reynolds, Chris Abernathy, Ben Clayton & Lauren Connell, 1997
|17||There is no Dog
An accidental new route. Not easy to locate from this description though!
Start: Behind the 'Wailing Wall' up right arête.
FA: Edwin Irvine & Greg Pritchard, 2007
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
The corner then L around the roof.
Start: Start in the alcove R of K.
FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett & Mike Stone, 1978
|16||Click my Lit
Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.
Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.
FA: Richard Smith & solo, 1999
Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.
FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall|
The twin cracks.
Start: Start just L of KB.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Allan Wilkie, 1983
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
The line up the L side of the buttress.
Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.
FA: Rod Young & Matt Taylor, 1976
The first route in the world to have its own web-site!
Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.
Up the corner, finishing slightly left
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999
A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.
FA: Mike Totterdell & Pete Holmes, 8 Mar 2012
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.
FA: Smith & G. Hoxley, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Quite classic and good fun.
Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967
|16||Lets Do Lunch
See arapiles.net for a photo.
Start: Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.
FA: Keith Lockwood et al.
On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.
FA: The Cat, Kryten, Lister & Kochanski, 1999
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear.
Start: Start 2m R of NH.
FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd & Kazimierczak, 1990