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Shattered Buttress Todos Escalada clásica 9 vías en acantilado

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Ascensiones: 40
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Descripción

The red wall up and R of Hellspite Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Charity Buttress Area

Restricciones heredado de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Acceso

Up R of Lemming Wall, and almost at the top of the ridge, is this red wall. It might be quicker to approach from one of the summit carparks.

© (willmonks)

Ética heredado de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Vías

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Grado Vía
1
20 Glass Goblin Clásica 25m, 2

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

  1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

  2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

PA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

2
16 Dead End Clásica 12m

The line up the L side of the buttress.

Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.

PA: Rod Young & Matt Taylor, 1976

3
20 Shattered Clásica 16m

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

PA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

4
25 ★ Alone in the Dead Zone Clásica mixta 15m, 1

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

PA: Tim Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985

5
19 R Crystalline Clásica 15m

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

PA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

6
20 ★ Delicacy Clásica 8m

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

PA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

7
16 http://www.climb.webprovider.com/ Clásica 10m

The first route in the world to have its own web-site!

Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.

Up the corner, finishing slightly left

PA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

8
12 Mortality Clásica 10m

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

PA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

9
17 Century Box Clásica 10m

A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.

PA: Mike Totterdell & Pete Holmes, 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Autor(es): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

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Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Autor(es): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Fecha: 2013

número ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Comprar
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Sublimb Climbs

Autor(es): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Fecha: 2011

número ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Comprar
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