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Acceso: Rock Art Discovered here.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

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Resumen

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

© (Breezy)

Descripción

The routes are described clockwise, starting at 'The Ferrets are Coming' which is on the far left, facing South.

There is a nasty weed on the R near the bouldering - please try not to spread the seeds.

© (Breezy)

Restricciones heredado de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ética heredado de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vías

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Grado Vía
Cerrado

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984

Cerrado

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984

Cerrado

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

Cerrado

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

FA: Peter Watson & Mike Law, 1976

Cerrado

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Cerrado

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984

Cerrado

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

Cerrado

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

Cerrado

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Cerrado

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975

Cerrado

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

Cerrado

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 9 Jul 2011

Cerrado

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

Cerrado

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Cerrado

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Cerrado

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998

Cerrado

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Cerrado

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

FA: 1 En 2014

Cerrado

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Cerrado

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

Cerrado

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997

Cerrado

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

Cerrado

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

Cerrado

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966

Cerrado

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Cerrado

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

Cerrado

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges.

Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Cerrado

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

FA: Mike Law

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

Cerrado

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979

Cerrado

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Cerrado

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Cerrado

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

Cerrado

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996

Cerrado

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

Cerrado

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Actividad

Echa un vistazo a lo que está ocurriendo en Declaration Crag.

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