North Mitre Todos Escalada clásica 53 vías en acantilado

If you're tired of Arapiles you're tired of life.

And you'll be tired after this. Overhung undercling flake with stuff all for your feet. You might not be surprised to find it hard for the grade.

Requires a bit of a grope around the bulge. The line about 3m left of The Archbishop. Groove to bulge, then on easily up to scoopy wall and upper wall.

Start at the painted initial 'A'.

1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this (placing gear in some loose blocks) to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start 2 metres right of The Archbishop and go straight up wall to flat roof below left arete. Over this to seam just right of arete. If you climb this route direct it's about 22, it was originally given 18, not sure if this was just meant to be a sandbag or if they avoided the hard bits!

1. 27m (14) Start as for Penny Dreadful but diagonal delicately left and up to small undercling roof. Move up and right into right-facing corner and up to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.

1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge. Rap chains.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

Quite good moves on the top flake. Start as for Penny Dreadful or at the next seam to the right. Up to the blocky ledge then take the flake-crack right of the Penny Dreadful corner.

Takes the big wall around right from Leather Bound. So-so. Start up the gulch between Leather Bound and The Great White Hope, moving left to the prominent crackline on the wall around right from Leather Bound. Up crackline, step right through bulge, then finish up corner system on the front shoulder of the buttress.

Old-fashioned jamming up the line through a couple of overhangs. Be wary of loose blocks near the top. Start immediately left of Bangla Desh at obvious crack-line.

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

A series of sustained moves.

1. Start as for The Parsons Nose Direct Start and continue directly through overlap and seam and up steep wall. Belay at ledge.

2. Move left through right facing corner and tricky overhang a few metres right of The Great White Hope.

The full name is "Regarding Apocalyptic 'Simpleton' 'Simpleton' Fun Penis Shooter Shrug Woof Hello". Despite this, it is not a great climb. Start 2m left of Through the Dardanelles.

Done Exodus and Cloaca and looking for another easy route? Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

The little crack on the right wall of the gully around left from Lema Sabachthani has a hard start. Clipping the first bolt of Apron Strings might be tempting.

An awesome climb if you're not a fan of exposure. 1) 23m (6) Start on exodus for 16m and then head up the sloping belay ledge on L. 2) 15m (2) Up the corner then traverse R then straight up.

Below Edgell Gerber is a short crack to gain the ledge.

1. 25m (14) Start up this then from the ledge diagonal right to gain a crack between Iago and Morgul Can't. Up this to ledge.

2. 15m (-) Step across the DA chimney and climb the wall.

More very nice climbing which is quite satisfying even though it squibs the obvious direct finish, Morgul Can't, which is just that bit more serious. Start at easy corner 3 metres left of Salem.

This route starts up Salem for a few meters then uses balancy moves to step right. For the direct and bold start see A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct.

Start as for Gulp.

1. 38m (17) Direct past peg on Gulp to the grass. Straight up wall, starting up a thin crack. Veer up left to another small wall. Climb central crack in wall, drift a fraction left then finish centrally. Continue easily (to obvious horizontal overlap).

2. 12m (-) Pull over overlap and finish left of centre via square cut headwall.

Up and right to ancient peg runner then left and up onto grassy ramp and wander up this. Start 8 metres left of the conifer near the Bostok ramp. There's a ramp of spiky grass at 8 metres.

Boulder up tiny smooth bulge straight to the peg on Gulp. Go diagonally right (in Mullumbimby Madness for a move), pull bulge then left to incipient cracks 2 metres right of Gulp.

Scramble to the top of ramp. Now go up short crack and scoop, trending right, and then back left and through overlap. Start at a ramp running up diagonally right 12 metres left of Belltower and just left of a large conifer growing against the cliff.

Up cruxy bulging face past fixed hanger to ledge, then trad up easier face and crack to overlap past second fixed hanger, crux, then up to rap station.

A funky little thing. Double ropes help and a #4 cam helps to ignore unnecessary atrocious bolt. Start at the right edge of the deep cleft of Belltower. Up to horizontal and traverse 5 metres right to layback crack to ledge. Up crack past old bolt to chimney.

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Strange climbing up the guano-stained scoop with minimal protection at the crux. There's a fairly worthless direct start (23) 3 metres to the right past a bolt (John Gandy, Simon Carter 11-89).