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Acceso: Bouldering is not permitted in Black Mountain Nature Park

From the Parks ACT website:

"Rockclimbing and associated activities including bouldering are not permitted in Black Mountain Nature Reserve."

https://www.parks.act.gov.au/find-a-park/canberra-nature-park/black-mountain-nature-reserve

It looks like the restriction was added in the 2021 reserve management plan.

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Creó aprox. hace un año

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Descripción

The main area for Black Mountain, accessed around a 150-200 metre walk from the first parking bay (asphalt) that you find on your left as you drive or walk up the hill. The boulders/climbs are described from right to left facing uphill - they form a broken ridge that ends at boulder 8 (see topo)

Restricciones heredado de Black Mountain Bouldering

Bouldering on Black Mountain is prohibited.

Black Mountain is CNP land, the Plan of Management can be found here. This sets out the management priorities for the reserve, and bouldering's impact on the small remnant population of the Pink-Tailed Worm-Lizard is too great a risk.

Acceso

Follow the "Lakeview" trail from the carpark for about 120m. You'll need to turn right off the track to find the rocks.

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía
Cerrado

Up face crack on right side; boulder is second (of three) on right hand side facing the lake coming down the unpaved road.

Equip: John T, 8 Jun 2014

PAL: John T, 8 Jun 2014

Cerrado

Up left hand side of same boulder for Problem 0.1, nice right hand pinch to pull up orange exposed section

Equip: John T, 8 Jun 2014

PAL: John T, 8 Jun 2014

Cerrado

Sit start with a high heel hook and fingers in the small notch, push for the shelf and go from there to rock over your heel

PA: Stephen Bradshaw, 3 Mayo 2020

Cerrado

Sit start. Pull through the good face hold and you’re away.

PA: Cads, 30 Jun 2018

Cerrado

Up right side arrete, easy layback up to top; boulder is the third (furthest from road), next to Problem 0.1 boulder with a small roof section

Equip: John T, 8 Jun 2014

PAL: John T, 8 Jun 2014

Cerrado

Same face as Problem 0.3, small right hand finger pocket to start

PAL: John, 8 Jun 2014

Equip: John, 8 Jun 2014

Cerrado

Start slightly left of roof (opposite side of Problem 0.4), reach past roof to mantle finish

PAL: John T, 8 Jun 2014

Equip: John T, 8 Jun 2014

Cerrado

Sit start on positive holds then throw for the absolute apex of the boulder.

Cerrado

Eliminate - sit start as for problem 1, right hand to the sloper then use that hold to steady yourself for the throw to the top.

Cerrado

Sit start at the very right hand edge, traverse through the slopes and finish by mantling at the apex of the boulder (i.e. eliminate the good horizontal break for hands). Contrived but climbs OK.

PA: Carl Hattenfels, 4 Oct 2021

Cerrado

Up and over the bulge. Sketchy mantel.

Cerrado

Sit start, sitting on detached rock. Start on good high jug and same finish as AM

Equip: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

PAL: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

PA: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

Cerrado

Sit start on far left using orange part of rock as foot holds. Go diagonally to the right and up. The small rock under the good starting hold on far left is off for feet. Avoid standing on ledge.

Equip: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

PAL: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

PA: Andrew Lehmann, 4 Dic 2016

Cerrado

Up the crack and its nearby features. Bonus points if you use only the crack. Sit start.

Cerrado

Contrived eliminate - climb up the left arete without using the rest boulder. Tensiony and a bit crimpy.

Cerrado

Eliminate. Sit start in crack and climb face left of crack. Crack and left arete are in, all other boulders to the left are out.

PA: Carl Hattenfels, 4 Oct 2021

Cerrado

Sit start, then up and stay to the right using the easy holds.

Cerrado

Sit start and fairly directly up but to the right side of the arete, rather than the left.

Cerrado

Sit start then head left around the arete on small holds and incuts. The crux is getting up over the ledge at mid height. Roughly v3 if you eliminate a few holds.

Cerrado

Silly eliminate. Using only the toe-hook on the left side (the incut notch on the right side is out), slap your way up the arete and then take the big swing (tiny swing) before campussing your way to the ledge then mantling your way to the top. Sit start.

Cerrado

A vicious sit-start problem using the crimp hold at about head height when sitting (which just fits a few fingers of each hand), then executing a large dynamic move to reach the ledge above. Your fingers may not survive; you have been warned.

Cerrado

Sit start on other side of arête. Match on obvious jug at head height. Traverse left around arête then move up to top out. Don't use ledges to mantle up on final moves and the left crack constrains the route.

PA: Steve Duggan, 2015

Cerrado

From a standing start, get your hands high up on the right edge of the arete and your toes into the crack running along the bottom of the rock. Shuffle your hands up the edge until you reach the jug, get your left foot onto the crimp hold from 'Problem 9' then swing your right foot up onto the ledge and convince the rest of your body to follow it. Continue to the top.

Cerrado

Climb the boulder without mantling.

Cerrado

Climb the boulder and mantle at the ledge. If you're feeling crazy like me, execute a scary heel hook out wide and blindly reach up for a semi-crimp, trust that it's bomber and use it to lever yourself up. Do not go around the right side; this problem is for checking your head.

Cerrado

Difficult to grade. From a standing start, use the lovely hand-grip at shoulder height, place your feet at either side as high as you can get them, and dyno to the second ledge above your head - that is, the higher one. While it takes some strength to accomplish, much more of the climb is about trusting you can do it and won't body-slam the rock.

PA: David Nott, 2011

Cerrado

Stand start. Up the right side of the boulder using the crimp then trending left to a rail and up.

Cerrado

As for 12, get set on your feet using the crimp then head left around the corner using the rail to steady yourself and up from there.

Cerrado

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then head right using the odd volume for a side/undercling and finish for problem 12.

Cerrado

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then climb up the arete, hugging both sides and top out.

Cerrado

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then climb the arete using only the holds on the left side.

Cerrado

Sit start on triangle undercling. Traverse left and finish up Problem 16.

PA: Nick White, 4 Oct 2021

Cerrado

Start with left hand on low jug in back of roof and right hand on decent crimp just over the roof. Campus to the obvious flat ledge about 3 metres up. Stupid.

PA: Nick White, 4 Oct 2021

Cerrado

Start matched on the big triangular undercling (slightly awkward). Use the diagonal slot at about head height with your left hand before reaching directly up to the rail (no other handholds allowed here). From here trend up diagonally right topping out over the small bush.

PA: William, 16 Mayo 2020

Cerrado

Like Ascension, hard to grade. And massively sketchy. Using the rail on the very right hand side of the boulder, get your feet under you (do not use the mercy boulder just to your right) and dyno up onto the horn. If you manage to make it, congratulate yourself that you've averted broken bones, ponder why the hold isn't just a liiitle bit more juggy, then figure out how you're going to get up the top as you're not done yet.

PA: David Nott, 2011

Cerrado

Same Boulder as the topo above

From a standing start, grab two big jugs on the arete and get your feet onto the sloping blocks underneath. Swing a lft foot into the little orange incut notch the the left, stand up on that and head on up.

PA:

Cerrado

Start as for 'section 59', but instead of staying left at the top, swing out onto the slabby face and go straight up.

Cerrado

Sit start, up the guts, over the bulge, rounded top out.

PA: Peter Robinson, 11 Jun 2018

Cerrado

Start as for 'Dont touch the jizz' right to the arrete then up and over the bulge to top out

PA: Mitchell Robertson, 11 Jun 2018

Cerrado

PA: Kaylee Verrier, 11 Jun 2018

Cerrado

This climb is about 50m down the hill from section 59.

PA: Cads, 30 Jun 2018

Cerrado

Pull up using the rail/side pulls, then gain the step before committing to the top out.

PA: Cads, 30 Jun 2018

Cerrado

Pull up then move out right before topping out.

PA: Cads, 30 Jun 2018

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