Ayuda

No se permite la escalada en esta zona.

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Restricciones heredado de Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ética heredado de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía

Starts about 3metres left of 'Hot Henry' on the right hand side of big incut ledge. Sit start with a left flat top hold and a right undercling, top out straight up via the 2 crimps.

PA: Adenjn, 2013

Starts the same as 'Gobby and the CrayJ'. Traverse right through some smallish holds then topping out using some decent holds in the seam.

PA: Adenjn, 2013

Start the same as 'Lukewarm Hank' but instead of topping out continue climbing right through some big moves and top out in the seam left of 'Hot Henry's' Finish.

PA: 2013

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!)

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps

Classic central problem through the cave.

Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof.

Start as james but from flat edge dyno directly out to slopey lip and mantle.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

PA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip.

Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this.

RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time.

Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

PA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start around the corner from the main wall at the large jug. Straight up to a RH sidepull, then traverse left across the slopey lip to a very tricky Fontainebleau-like mantle. Can also be done by going left into the finish of 'Winterkirsch' prior to gaining the lip, followed by the mantle. V7 if you do it this way.

Sit start on obvious edge behind old tree. Make a huge move rightt then traverse sloped ledge and head up obvious weakness.

As for the Grampians Boulder Guide 2016 Edition.

Start at bottom of first black streak on jugs, climb up through crimps to finish on good holds

PA: Riccardo Toto Monetta

Follow the orange streak to the left of the crack to a juggy arete. Fun low grade highball.

PAL: Neil Jenman, 22 Sep 2018

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Steve Toal

Fecha: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(es): Steve Toal

Fecha: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(es): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

Compartir contenido

Fotos Navegar por todas las fotos

Subir foto de zona

Mar 18 Abr
Echa un vistazo a lo que está ocurriendo en Loopeys.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文