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The Kindergarten (bouldering) 🚫

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Descripción

A good collection of problems that haphazardly span the grades between V3 and V12+. Standout problems that are amongst some of the best for their grade are 'Innocence' (V3), 'The Nevin Rule' (V7) and 'Spanking the Monkeybars' (V8). Section 2 is a perfect spot for a rainy day - as it is one of the few areas that stay dry in a downpour.

© (boardlord)

Restricciones

Some of the popular boulder problems on the Northern side of the Cave (Mostly section 1) actually climb over quarrying sites, and as such this area should remain Closed.

© (boardlord)

Acceso

These climbs are located right of the 'Clicke Wall' area. 'Problems' are listed left to right (facing the cliff). 'Access' via Mt Zero carpark, then once past the picnic area and onto the base of Flat Rock - keep heading left following the borderline of the trees and rock platform to gain the upper terrace. Then head straight up towards the main cliffline where a faint track and cairns lead up to obvious orange wall under a roof. This is Section 1. Gripmaster (V9) is a particular landmark - just look for the very bad slopers heading up the vague arete to under the roofline. Further around from here about 80 meters to the right is Section 2.

© (boardlord)

Ética heredado de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vías

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To the right of Caffeinator, sit start the crack.

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Sit start at the base of the leaning arete and climb leftwards up the line of slopers and flakes. A classic for the grade!

Cerrado

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete. Mantle into the scoop and climb straight up on slopers and edges.

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A good looking problem taking the central feature up the wall just right of the start to 'Innocence'. Sit-start.

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The right trending finish to "Charlie's Sex Tour". Climb CST to mid-height and traverse right to the large sloper pod and up the scoop.

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Sit start to the right of Charlies Sex Tour on right slanting holds and traverse onto the lower line of slopers. Finish up into Bubble Trouble.

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Sit start on the huge hollow flake and follow the jugs to the top.

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A left to right traverse.

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A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

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The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

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The giant scoop 10 meters left of Gripmaster.

Step into scoop gaining two well chalked under clings, walk up feet high and leap for rail. Needs many pads and spotters as it is committing and in serious ankle breaking territory.

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Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

PA: Klem Loskot, 1999

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[Not drawn on topo] Start as for Gripmaster, then head right towards Sesame Super 'Highway' via slopey pinches to a jug on the corner. Like it's harder relation - very conditions dependant.

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A great two mover. Pretty much a 1-3-6 campus move - but with your feet on (if you get the drift).

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Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

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Sit start at Spanking the Monkeybars.

Big move L along the rail to decent edges. Hold on tight and move through pockets in the roof to match on the slopey lip.

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Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

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Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

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Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

PA: Klem Loskot, 1999

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Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

PA: Fred Nicole, 2000

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Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of 'Spanking the Monkeybars')

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A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

PA: Simon Weill, 2000

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The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

PA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

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Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

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Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

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Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

Ryan

Uhuru Channel static finish!

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Sit-start at the base of the hanging arete right of 'The Nevin Rule'. Follow the line up to a good jug via quite a hard 1st and 2nd move off a slopey pinch and a gaston crimp.

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A lowish traverse, sit starting on some flat holds down to the right hand side of the boulder. Pull moves left to some under-cut crimps then up to gain a side pull to top out.

PA: Adenjn, 2013

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Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds

PA: Adenjn, 2013

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Steve Toal

Fecha: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(es): Steve Toal

Fecha: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(es): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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