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Vamp Buttress

Estacionalidad

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Resumen

Easy access with some longer (25-30m) routes.

Descripción

The second main buttress you come across walking up from the suspension bridge.

Restricciones heredado de Duck Reach

Annoyingly, there have been numerous recent reports of break-ins at the top carpark. Maybe consider taking any valuables down to the cliffs with you, or at least keep them stashed well out of sight.

Ética heredado de Launceston (Cataract) Gorge

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

PA: Isaac Lethborg

Corner crack with nice jams and lots of face holds too. Great gear the whole way. DBB lower-off.

PA: Newell, Barnsley & McMahon

Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB

Nice climbing around the corner crack, up to ledge with tree and DBB. Continue up the splitter fist crack to chimney above. Finish up the face of the boulder (natural belay). Scramble off back of boulder, and rap from DBB located on upstream platform (35m to ground, 15m to Sign of the Times anchor).

PA: Bob McMahon, 1973

The black face R of the Vamp corner, with x4 U bolts. Takes gear at the top and bottom. DBB

PA: Danny Ng

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

The trench like groove up the arete on the far RH side of the main buttress. x4 carrot bolts, plus a #1 camalot. DBB

PA: Danny Ng

The crack directly through the 2m roof. Yet to see a free ascent.

PA: Reg Marron, 1974

Crack behind the big detached pillar. Crux is clambering over the disconcerting big chockstone thing. DBB on top, but don’t rap/lower directly down line as ropes can jam in crack

PA: Fantini, 1980

Right hand crack behind the pillar

PA: McMahon, 1973

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

PA: Gerry Narkowicz, jemimah narkowicz & andrew martin, 23 Oct 2016

A good practice route for aspiring aid climbers. The original aid version of Seize the Day. Climbs the thin seam directly up the middle of the face on mostly small wires and micro SLCDs. Originally written up as M1 in Bob McMahon's South Esk guide. Probably considerably harder (about C2+) if using clean gear only and ignoring the bolts. Note that nailing on what is now one of the gorge's most classic hard free climbs will probably result in you and your hammer getting evicted from the state and chased back into the 1960's where you belong.

PAL: Simon Parsons

PA: Michael McHugh

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Loose Bolt

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

PA: Simon Parsons, 1986

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

PA: Mark Polinski

The direct start to Road to War up the arete. A great arete climb with three distinct boulder problem cruxes.

PA: I. Lethborg, Abr 2020

Open project? Line of FH’s R of Forgotten Sword

PAL: closs & lewis, 1973

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Gerry Narkowicz

Fecha: 2021

número ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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