Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Dislocation Station
A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP. Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try! | 5m | |||||
The Spit Sandy Bay | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 27
| 4m | |||||
The Spit Pearl Bay Pearl Bay Climbing | |||||||
26 | ★★ Convulsive Eggplant
Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree. FA: Julian McGee & Early 1990s | 10m | |||||
Balmoral Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||||||
V5 | Balmoral Arete
Arete on the right side of the bloc to the left of Lover's Tiff. FA: Damien Alexander, 14 Jul 2011 | ||||||
Cremorne Brightmore Reserve | |||||||
V5 | ★ Susan's Horn
Start as for Susan, then keep traversing left till large, sloped ramp. Follow this. Watch for high slope and wide pocket. Tough if you're short! FA: dwebster, En 2016 | ||||||
V5 | ★★ The King Over the Sea
Pretty well the final buttress heading right. Start on two high crimps. Up to groovy ramp. Then up over round top. Decent is ugly. Could be 6? Really good. The seated start will make it excellent. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||||
Cremorne Primrose Park Bum Crag | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Homeless Persons Hotline
On the steep side of the long block, start about as low as you can. Hold the first lip and traverse it till the apex. May be v6. (The hotline is 1800 152 152 out of interest.) FA: dwebster, Nov 2016 | ||||||
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | |||||||
25 | ★ Spiral Corpse
Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell' Up arete. Chain lower offs Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 10m, 3 | |||||
26 | ★ Pulpy Kidney Part II
Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off. FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 8m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks First Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★ 3
Narrow line up the right of the arete. | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Ralph's Arete (sit start)
| 4m | |||||
V5 | 7
Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up | 4m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks Walkdown Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 6
1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above | 4m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks Kenny Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 12
From broken undercling, reach/slap the sloping lip, then over and up using the right arete | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Nose linked into 5
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Lindfield Rocks Four Cracks Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★ Razorblade Alley
Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam. | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ 15 Variant
Between arete and corner eliminating the break and big pocket. | 4m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks Abseil Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Seam Eliminate
Up the seam using 20 cm corridor of rock | 6m | |||||
V5 | ★★ 9
Between 'Arete' and Tourist Route, a thin wall above two pockets with a well worn edge. Don't stray offline. | 6m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks Black Wall/Wide Crack Area | |||||||
V5 | 2
High, thin, airy, scary. | 6m | |||||
V5 R | ★★ 5
Middle of the wall left of 'Corner Crack' on small crimps | 6m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks One Hold Wall | |||||||
V5 | 2
Traverse the block rightwards staying below the lip. | 3m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks Pipeline Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★ 4
Starting at the base of the ramp, climb the wall without using the seam. Tricky. | 4m | |||||
V5 | 5
Using the only good set of footholds to the left of the ramp use a single finger undercling and reach, reach, reach for an edge. It helps if you're tall. | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ 9
Start with your right hand in the slot and move up via the slopey pocket just right of the layback crack to a higher slopey pocket. | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Corals
The classic left-to-right traverse starting in the layback crack and going all the way to 'The Runnel' | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Corals R to L
| 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Corals R to L linked into 16.
| ||||||
V5 | ★★ 12
Hold the obvious round pocket with your left hand and reach up to a sloper and nubin then up. | 4m | |||||
V5 | 16. R to L linked into Corals
| ||||||
Lindfield Rocks Orange Face/Slab Side | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 2a
Eliminate the squarish horn, smeary + desperate | 3m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks She-Oak Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 9
Starting on the slopey crimp, attack the arete of 'The Golden Triangle' | ||||||
V5 | ★★ The Golden Triangle (Sit start)
Adds a move to GT by sit-starting with left hand pocket, right hand layaway | ||||||
Lindfield Rocks Isolated Rock/Overhang | |||||||
V5 | Traverse #4 Variant
Turn the nose without the good ledge or the top at V5+ | 4m | |||||
Lindfield Rocks The Overhangs | |||||||
V5 | ★ 3
Starts by underclinging a large flake just right of the big corner crack. Right to a large pocket on the arete and then up. | ||||||
Lindfield Rocks Pipe Dreams | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Upper Pipe Dreams
The high traverse back from the end of 'Pipe Dreams' back to the start. Hands below the top. | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Put That In Your Pipe and Smoke It
Link Upper Pipedreams into Pipedreams. Long, pumpy and awesome. | ||||||
Chatswood West The Deli Sausage Aisle | |||||||
V5 | ★ Sausage salad
Start up Wiener, but keep traversing left to finish up K. (Sausage salad is a real thing in Germany...) FA: dwebster, Feb 2016 | ||||||
Killara The Big Pump | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Mummy Dust
The classic training problem. Usually done left to right. If you don't rest in the little cave it is apparently equivalent to a 28. FA: Geoff Weigand | ||||||
V5 | ★ The Ramp
A powerful and desperate crag classic. Start matched on the bottom sloper rail and power up the slopey ramp, paat an edge, to the finish jug up high (on 'The High Traverse'). | 3m | |||||
25 | Mummy's Old Carrots
Originally climbed back when the pyramids were being constructed. Now on some more friendly bolts. Start up the boulder problem 6, then do another boulder problem, followed by a dyno and another 2 boulder problems to get to the anchor. The grade is an absolute guess, and the real name and first ascensionist is a mystery. (does anyone know?) | 10m, 5 | |||||
Killara The Block | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Backdoor Benny
| ||||||
V5 | ★★ State of origin 3 (the decider)
| ||||||
V5 | Steely Neilly
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V5 | ★ Teddybear's picnic (eliminate)
| 3m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Top Tier Chossland | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Michael Jordan is God
From the good starting holds left of Smile, dyno to the lip of the roof. A nice mantle to finish. Amazing fly! Set by Zig & Xavier FA: Xavier, 2014 | 3m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Top Tier King Davids Overhang | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Out Of The Lions Jaw
A pumping build up of death defying proportions! start on the right about 1m from were the overhang starts. Match hands in the thin letter box around eye level. From here work diagonally up to the left following the line of pockets side pulls, etc. Hit the large ledge and get ready to tackle this lion of a top out. Head straight up the water eroded scoop and smear, pinch, slap and reach long for the good holds up top. Free yourself from the Lions Jaws, but take note that you can finish this problem without doing a "beached Whale" Set by Geoff Marshall, 15 Nov 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 9 Feb 2014 | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★ Gods First Problem
Set by Geoff Marshall, 19 Mar 2014 FA: Geoff Marshall, 19 Mar 2014 | 5m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Going Goliath
TWO Epic dyno's followed by a committing mantle makes this problem a definite crag classic! Sit start at the common spot under the left hand side of the overhang Pull on and move left to the deep slot and the tight crimping slot above it. From this location, think big and Dyno up to the solid ledge line under the main part of the overhang. After pulling your self back to the rock, compose and then dyno out to the left to the deep slot under the lip of the overhang. Match and top out straight up with some committing mantling Solid and heart pounding all the way through Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 19 Mar 2014 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 24 Abr 2014 | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Michael Jordan is God
From the good starting holds left of The Promised Dunk, dyno to the lip of the roof. A nice mantle to finish. Amazing fly! Set by Zig & Xavier, 2014 FA: Xavier, 2014 | 4m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Undecided Christianity | |||||||
V5 | ★ Christian Brothers Brothers(Sit Start)
Finish as for CBB but add a sit start. Start low with right hand in crimp and left foot out left. Set by Geoff Marshall, 8 Oct 2013 FA: Geoff Marshall, 8 Dic 2013 | 2m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Simons Dyno
Dyno from undercling, right crimps out. FA: Simon Stephens, 2013 Set by Simon Stephens, 19 Mar 2014 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Dy No
Why jump when you can crimp! Start on the same undercling as Simon's Dyno, but instead of jumping climb your way up the line. Maybe a bit easier than the dyno? Start undercling, Hard right crimp, sloper lip, mantle top out. Great moves on decent rock. | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Upper Cut
Father Ted's stiff upper lip finishing early in the exit of Simon's dyno FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 30 Mar 2014 | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Church Of The Eternal Hug
Embrace the feel good spirit of this technical problem At the blunt arete on the left side of the Undecided Boulder, start siting under the solid holds. pull up to the big rounded Gaston and then throw your hand out to the left arete, creating a huge hug Focusing on your balance, delicately move up the center of the arete. Top out via the water eroded part of the rock, but don't lost sight of the love till you are well on the top as the end of the problem can get really slippery A beautiful line with a super fun sequence! Original Problem V5 - Stand start off rock at base Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 17 Dic 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 9 Feb 2014 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ High Priest Of The Temple Of Hugs
Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 9 Mar 2014 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 9 Mar 2014 | ||||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Right Wing Christianity | |||||||
V5 | Shenanigans
Crouch start on the left of the right arete on a small crimp for your left hand and the arete for your right. The arete is in. Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 6 Feb 2014 FA: Tyrone Clements, 3 Feb 2018 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Fire From Heaven Blues
Powerful, challenging start! Awkward sit start under horizontal sloping crack line with your feet up hill. Pull on and move up through crimps to the sloping scoop. Straight up the middle of the face to top out. Set by Geoff Marshall, Nov 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 5 Feb 2014 | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Deep In The Belly Of The Whale
Who knew being swallowed by a whale could be so much fun! Sit start 1m right of "Thy Mighty Right Hand" (with the scooped out section of the lip on your left) and pump up the inviting array of crimpers until you reach the good slots With some interesting holds above you, work your way through this problem until you can get your left hand deep within the rounded scoop. Like water from a blowhole, shoot straight up for the top out and wipe the stomach acids from your hand Love it! Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 13 Nov 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 17 Dic 2013 | 4m | |||||
V5 | ★ The Drunk Apostle
Start at the right of the face. using crimps head up and mantle onto the slab side, top out here. Set by Ranger Dave Archer, En 2014 FA: Mantis, 1 Feb 2018 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Can I Get A Witness
A Super Committing problem requiring raw strength and some epic dead pointing Sit start at the lowest point just left of "BIAHH", directly under the pigs snout holds. Move up through the ledges till you are clinging to the crimpers on the face above you, put your feet high and launch yourself at the two small vertical holds shaped like a pigs snout. Oh yeah, own that hold, get your other hand up there and raise yourself up for the lawd! Huh! Can ya feel it? Ohhhh Yea! Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 20 Nov 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 20 Nov 2013 | 3m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier Kobens Wall | |||||||
V5 | Laughing Buddha
Set by Geoff Marshall, 1 Nov 2013 FA: Simon, 19 Mar 2014 | 3m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier The Raising Of The Highball | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Rebuke your Elders
Pull on from the good rail and then go right hand to the good horizontal edge. Left hand to the pocket and then try not to barn-door going for the right hand two finger pocket. Bring your feet high and battle your way up the large V to top out. FA: Ian Millar, 14 Jun 2017 | 4m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier Three Wise Boulders Cave | |||||||
V5 | The Life Of Brian
Set by Geoff Marshall, 16 En 2014 FA: Geoff Marshall, 19 Mar 2014 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Right Hand Of Geoff
Set by Geoff Marshall, 16 En 2014 FA: Geoff Marshall, 19 Mar 2014 | 4m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier The Last Highball | |||||||
V5 | ★ Pontius Pilates Preposterous Problem
Start on obvious big incut and proceed up using edge or filthy mono for grade. Top out high, but has good holds. Can be done dynamically without using the mono or edge for about V3. Actually Fa'd by Ranger Dave until a nameless climber tried a dynamic move off the undercling and sent it flying into the bush behind, rendering it unrepeatable that way! Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2 Oct 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 30 Mar 2014 FA: Matt Minus, 30 Mar 2014 | 5m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier The Omnipotence Overhang | |||||||
V5 | Paradise Lost
Common start as for BLTSS and RT. Tend right into PD then head up avoiding the jug out left. Mantle directly through the overhanging top without using large hold or ledge out right. FFA: Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 Set by Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 | 6m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Bottom Tier Did Someone Forget Heaven Adams Sacred Apple | |||||||
V5 | ★ Recognition Of The Righteous Boulderer
Set by Geoff Marshall, Dic 2013 FA: Geoff Marshall, Dic 2013 | 2m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Bottom Tier Did Someone Forget Heaven The Broken Tablet | |||||||
V5 | Sharp and quick
on thin holds in the middle of the wall power up to the lip. FA: Unknown, 2014 | 2m | |||||
East Killara The Promised Land Bottom Tier Did Someone Forget Heaven Pockets Of The Apostles | |||||||
V5 | Sacred Simon Met A Pie Man
Set by Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 FA: Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 | 3m | |||||
V5 | Bad Habits
Set by Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 FA: Simon Stevens, 19 Mar 2014 | 2m | |||||
V5 | Pope Mobile
Set by Geoff Marshall, Nov 2013 FA: Simon Stevens, Mar 2014 | 3m | |||||
East Killara Queen's Country Lower | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears
Sit start at the right hand side of the boulder and make your way leftwards to top out over the prow. So named because one of the area's developers ended up coming off while holding onto one of the rough holds higher up and subsequently lost a fair bit of skin on his left hand. FA: James Lacey, 27 Nov 2013 | ||||||
Killarney Heights Crumbly | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Anorexic
One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. FA: T.O'Neill, 2000 | 4m | |||||
V5 | Genicus
Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely. FA: marc landers, 27 En 2015 | ||||||
V5 | ★ Genicus Copernicus
Start at Genicus and go up through crimp rail to slopey rail. Traverse rightwards till the holds end then make a big move out to jug in the roof. FA: Phil Neville, 27 En 2015 | ||||||
Forestville Sissy Crag | |||||||
26 | B
| 8m | |||||
25 | ★★ C
This is the route that starts at V0 "What am I doing here?" - 4 U-Bolts + Anchors. | 8m, 4 | |||||
V5 | Dan-De-Lion
Just left of 'Penis Cling' start on the juggy ledge and continues up the slopey arete. | ||||||
V5 | ★ The House With No Steps
M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick. FA: Gavin Portier | ||||||
V5 | World War III
Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above BOTD's layaway. Stay below the good holds. | ||||||
V5 | ★ For Sissies
Up Not for Sissies via the undercling. Easy if you’re tall, nails if you’re not. | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Just One Fix
Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates. | ||||||
V5 | ★ Gladheateher variant
Same as for 'Gladheateher' but skip the arete and dyno instead. | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Mr Smiley
M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet. | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Vitamin C var
As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels. | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Mind Is A Terrible Thing To Taste
A variant of 'The Pillar' but without using feet. Start on the two positive crimps on the lip and then 1,6,3,7,8 | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★ Bongo Slap
No feet problem traversing left to right along the slopey break. FA: David James | 2m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Go Granny Go
Grab the edge with your right hand, the little slope with your left and then the top with your right hand. Watch the superman swing! FA: Michael Law | 1m | |||||
V5 | ★★ Mike's Five
M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12 Don't bust a tendon! | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★ John
Just right of the pockets on Mikes Five is a long not-so good-hold in a little scoop. Start from this and move up and rightwards through an assortment of bad holds to finish in the break where the vegetation grows. | ||||||
V5 | ★ Left Side
Sit start on the left on the flat ledge. Move right and out the roof via some good holds to finish on the jug rail. | 3m | |||||
V5 | Relic from the 90's
From the finishing hold of Pork Platter make two nice moves out the roof to the feature, then two tough moves up and to the right, then finish on the obvious jug in the break. FA: Unknown | ||||||
{UK} E4 6C | ★★★ Slabia Majora
Technical smearing, padding and slabbing at its best. Very sequency with every move harder than previous. FA: Gavin Porter, 1998 | 5m | |||||
Forestville The Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Elvis
Start low on the right facing layback flake, move left and up. A long move with an interesting landing gains the lip and a shift in style the simmit. | 5m | |||||
V5 | Between Bing & Elvis
Start as for Bing, then move right and up on slopey and not thoroughly clean holds, in the process avoiding Elvis' jugs. | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Thylacine
Start from the slopey ledge, move right to the long rail, boost to the the dish then make for the mantle. FA: Will Schubert, 27 Ag | 5m | |||||
Forestville Fox Cave | |||||||
V5 | Danger Mouse
From the two perfect slots in the middle of the roof, come out and match on the broken slopers. | 2m | |||||
Forestville The Frontyard Ashtray Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★ B Radless
Start on some crozzly edges beneath the overlap/seam/crack. Go up to some more suspect edges and then go left to the obvious holds. Be very careful. | 6m | |||||
V5 | The Grim Reefer
Climb Falling Leaves to the big hold under the rooflet. Match hands, undercling the rooflet and go to the top. Way more fun and scary if you are short. | 5m |