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Descripción

The end of the cliff closest to the road. Approach along main trail or from above using the trail climbers left of Finally or rappel in.

Watch out for poison ivy along cliff-base and approach trails to the cliff.

Restricciones heredado de Calabogie

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

Acceso

Take the lower path, and watch for the cliff to appear to the left.

Vías

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Grado Vía

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll". Thin and thoughtful climbing followed by some obvious slab to anchors. 3 bolts added to lower half of climb in place of the knife blades and pitons used by FA. A fourth bolt was added later to protect unsuspecting sport climbers. Cleaned June 2021 and anchors installed.

Back in the day, when it was a trad climb, this was graded 5.6. With the "upgrade" to a sport climb, the grade has, also, been upgraded to a more modern 5.8.

PA: P Low, P Allayn & D Buck, 1988

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor.

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.

Start on An Easy Stroll. Before the roof, traverse left and finish on Hump Day using the right facing dihedral for gear placement.

Start as "Hump Day". At the roof, head straight though on undercling and good sidepulls. Once on the slab above traverse left to anchors.

Immediately right of An Easy Stroll. Stay out of the dihedrals on both sides. Good sidepulls and good but thin crimps to the third bolt. Head right on balancy moves to easier interesting climbing. Top is a bit run out but takes cams. 5.6 if you use the dihedrals.

PA: Jim Clark, 22 Mayo 2020

Start about 1m right of "Hump Day", below a jagged left-facing flake.

Climb up to the left-facing flake and to the top of it. Then angle up and slightly left to the right-facing dihedral and up to the "Hump Day" anchor, ignore "Hump Day"'s bolts in favour of the fine gear in the dihedral.

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

The crux right-step under the roof is hard to protect, and likely to be a ground fall if you fail to make the move successfully.

Finishes nicely at "Breakfast Beer"'s anchor -- and is a fun TR from that anchor if you don't have trad gear.

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

Be mindful of the potential swing while cleaning this route. Keep an eye on your rope above you and communicate with your belayer.

PA: Jim Clark

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

Follow the line of bolts through the burly overhanging start on some hidden holds into a precarious mantle. Pull though the juggy roof into some thin cracks. Cruise the slab to the top. First bolt is a difficult clip, particularly if short, stick clip advised.

PA: Jim Clark, 23 Oct 2020

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

PA: D Buck & P Low, 1985

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

PA: M Buck & P Low, 1985

Advertencia Roca: Loose blocks at the roof

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', where the ground starts to rise, directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff.

Start straight up on good holds, then aim for an obvious cleft in the rock below an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

Now with bolted anchors.

PA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor.

A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain.

PA: Jim Clark, 9 Nov 2020

A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Autor(es): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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