Vías en Central America para grado seleccionado

Vorige topo "Caja Betico Croes", hernoemd. Fysieke overhangende passen, op 1/3 deel goede rustpositie in te nemen.

A traverse from below Warawara Dream to the start of Tears for Fears. Loads of pitch. Very physical with a lot of overhanging terrain. Excellent training route!

Deze route ontleent zijn naam aan de brok steen van 50 kilo die Frank Sillen op zijn knie kreeg hangend in het touw. Dak passage is het lastigste door de scherpe grepen.

Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt.

This route climbs the left edge of the tunnel entrance.

• Pitch 1: Stay left after bolt 2 and pass right behind the tree on the ledge to an anchor left behind the big stalactite.
• Pitch 2: Move right behind the stalactite on the ledge to another anchor.
• Pitch 3: Trends slightly left from the anchor.

Lower down from the top to the stairs. Easier to clean pitch 1 in top rope.

The classical test piece of Viñales. Taking the Bull by the Horn was a top rope problem following the same line.

This route climbs right of the big flake on the flat arete.

Links into Pink Lady.

First pitch is Visado Familiar.

This climb starts right of Mucho Pumpito and joins it at the first anchor. Pitch 2 is the same and Pitch 3 is the "left variant". Descend as for Mucho Pumpito.

An absolutely awesome route with great exposure and rock structures you have to see to believe!

Access the start by hiking up to the cave. It is best to prepare in the cave and leave your stuff there. Scramble up the ledge on polished rock on the left of the cave and look for the tufa column on your right.

As of May-2019 only the first 2 pitches have been rebolted - as with all routes at the Costanera watch the bolts if they are not re-bolted glue-ins!!

• Pitch 1: 9 bolts; Start right of the tufa column and up into the cave to exit it to the left. Follow great holds to an anchor right of the "Mucho Pumpito Ledge" - a very comfortable belay for pitch 2. The anchor consists of 3 unlinked glue-ins.

• Pitch 2: 11 bolts plus a couple of slings; follow the super exposed overhanging arete out right on increadible holds for 30m of pure fun. A no-hands rest at the tufa in the middle might reduce the pump. A sports anchor is located on top of the ledge.

• Pitch 3: A short pitch out right (the original last pitch). Many people do not climb this pitch, if you do, lower down to the anchor and rap from there to the ground. An alternative to the left is available as well (see "Pssst!" pitch 3).

Dirty start to big stemming corner with wide crack to the top.

To the left of the middle of the wall you will find Khadijah which hosts a technical start, pumping the ill-prepared early. Climb through the small ledges to the crux and make the undercling dependent move in the middle of the steepest section, grabbing the good ledges to follow. Another option is to pinch up the left side and by applying compression strength, although this path would most likely not be 5.12a. With the crux complete, use the randomly placed good holds to rest and reserve your energy in order to make it to the anchors. The climb will drift left and, at one point, almost overlap ‘No Soy Chino’, however do not become confused. Climb around the anchors of ‘No Soy Chino’ into the lighter coloured rock to find the jugs you have been dreaming of and the end of the route.

Much like ‘Adios Hermanos’, Buen Ray hosts its crux move close to the ground, and therefore clipping the first bolt prior to take-off is highly recommended in the name of safety. Post crux, expect ladderish yet fun climbing on the crimps, slopers, and pinches that are characteristic of climbing at Cachi. The route eases at the top with larger holds and widely available resting positions.

A tall and proud line going almost to the top of the wall.

The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb.

Directly to the right of 'David Ulloa' and just to the right of the thin crack is the delicate and resolute La Virgen. Climb up the crack using the odd face hold clipping the homemade bolts along the way. Past the third and final bolt climb up and to the left using large pockets and slopers until you reach the same anchors as 'David Ulloa'. This route has yet to see a successful headpoint.

This climb follows a technical crack to a big ledge. On the ledge let your arms take a well-deserved rest before finishing on fun entertaining jugs. If you don’t rest well enough on the ledge, the jugs may make you more pumped that you anticipate. At the top of the route don’t forget to turn around and take in the breath taking views of San José and the surrounding valley.

A Forum favorite with many climbers, La Raimunda is named after Ry Morrison, who besides being one of the first Costa Rican climbers to explore Forum, also bolted and supplied the bolts for the route. The climb is half balancing act, half pocketish-crimp fest worth the early rise or patient wait to beat out the intensely hot midday sun. Due to its position on the wall La Raimunda receives sun as early as 10:30am, which continues until about 2:30pm. As for the climbing, expect easy juggy moves until the ledge: this is where the climb really starts. After the ledge, an enjoyable no hands rest, a mix of laybacks, crimps, and a wild right handed catch to a pocket, you will work your way to the crux. If your fingers are feeling strong, then breeze through the crux to the larger holds just before the super shut anchors. If your fingers have gone on strike, don’t worry the falls are all clean.

Easy jug haulin’ until the face where it’s down to business. Getting over the lip or trying not to pump out, choose your crux.

Start on the irregularly shaped arête to the left of Biscochelo de Fresa. Climb to the roof and pull through the easy jugs and onto the face, finishing at the bolts just below a small overhanging tree.

Start on the same line as Chiquisa,using a side pull and some delicate moves to climb up to the second bolt and then head right. Continue towards the roof keeping right of the overhang to a open book. Use a mixture of stemming and hidden hand and foot holds to work your way up the open book before some lovable jugs, and a final push for the anchors.

This route has a little bit of everything. Technical and delicate, yet fun climbing on crimps with seemingly perfectly placed jugs for resting. Climb to the large overhanging roof where large jugs reside. In order to avoid some serious rope drag on the sharp edge of the overhang, don’t forget your extended draw. After resting under the roof, make the bold brawny moves through the monster jugs to haul yourself on top of the overhang. Now that you are done with the fun, get down to business as hand and foot holds almost completely disappear. Hug the refrigerator sized block with all four limbs, pray for great friction, think like a boulderer, and scramble to the anchors shared with Aquella to the left.

Start on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a layback crack across from a tree. Work the layback to a good rest, and then continue to follow the crack until a ledge where you can really rest it out, no-hands style. From the ledge use the pockets and some high feet to haul over the overhang and onto the slab before the anchors. Handholds really start to disappear as you climb over the final bolt and make for the super shuts. A word of warning, the slab at the top of the route is often very dirty after the rainy season.

Sanguinaria porque terminas con sangre en los dedos al subirte a esa ruta.

Beautiful route just left of "Sudor de mujer". Technical face climbing for the first half, crack climb to the anchor. Be careful, the crack section still contains a lot of loose rock, including some large boulders.

Approx 100m past "Las Chocolatadas", continue up the hill, veer left at the first canyon, walk down into the other canyon with nice rock faces on your right.

Bouldery start into thin technical face.

Excellent route. Climb the face before reaching the crack.

Sustained moves on small holds all to the top after the 8th bolt; the top is the hardest part. If your rope is 60m or less be careful at lowering as it is impossible to get to the belay spot.

Short and bouldery route with a wild exposure. Do not hesitate when reaching the second bolt because you can hit the deck if you fall.

Una via corta, con movimientos de bloque y una exposicion salvaje. No titubear al alcanzar la segunda chapa porque la caida es potencialmente peligrosa.

Just left of "Nuevo Inicio", shares the last bolts and anchor with it.

Short and bouldery if you only use faceholds, tends to be dirty because it turns into a water chute when it rains.

Via corta con movimientos de boulder si unicamente se utiliza la cara, tiende a estar sucia porque cuando llueve se vuelve un resbaladero.

A consistent crimp fiesta on a plumb line. The route involves a specific sequence that every climber solves differently. Skip the big ledge out right for full experience.

Una linea vertical y consistente en agarres pequeños. La via tiene una secuencia especifica que cada escalador resuelve de manera diferente. No tomar la repisa a la derecha para la experiencia completa.

A proud line with incredible exposure, its crux consists of sloper slapping on overhanging rock near the top.

Una via imponente con exposicion increible, el crux consiste en cachetear romos en roca desplomada cerca de las cadenas.

Escalar so- bre esta ruta requiere de resistencia sobre agarres pequeños y técnica de talón para mantener el cuerpo en ten- sión. Las primeras tres chapas contemplan la sección desplomada de la vía, justo antes de enchapar la tercera tenemos el crux. Una ruta corta pero intensa.

Se propone como el segundo 5.12a de este sec- tor. Se puede describir como una vía corta con secuencias de pasos técnicos, más no muy físicos. Hasta que llegas al punto donde se encuentra el crux de la vía. Se puede decir que se encuentra pasando la última protección para llegar a la estación. Si el flash es uno de los métodos favoritos te compartimos un beta. Es un agarre invertido que se coge en el lateral superior izquierdo, subir el pie izquierdo alto, llegar al mono dedo lateral derecho y rebotar la mano derecha a un romo. Donde se podrá hacer un máximo esfuerzo para levantar el cuerpo y colocar los express en la estación.