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Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.
The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.
Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.
Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always well-protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.
Restricciones
Frankenjura has an established concept regulating whether climbing is permitted at a crag: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/
For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/
For bouldering, first check: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.
There are seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zone concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zones.
Acceso
Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.
Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.
For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.
The Frankenjura covers a big area; it depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.
These are the important railway connections for this area:
- R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
- R4 to Amberg via Hersbruck, Etzelwang
- S1 to Hartmannshof via Hersbruck
- R21 Gräfenberg
- R2/S1 to Bamberg voa Forchheim
- R22 from Forchheim to Ebermannstadt
Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. The valley of the Pegnitz, for example, can be reached by using the R3.
Some areas, however, are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the middle ages). Most people have a car to travel around.
Alojamiento
Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.
Camping
The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.
Ética
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
Historia
Gráfico cronológico de las vías
A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.
- 1905 the group "Rifflerbuben" climb the last tower ("Bolzenstein").
- 1960 Oskar Bühler invented the "Bühlerhaken" – father of glue-in bolts
- 1974 definition of "redpoint" by Kurt Albert † and friends
- 1991 "Action Directe" by Wolfgang Güllich † – first UIAA 11 route
Etiquetas
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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar
Autor(es): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Fecha: 2023
número ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Autor(es): Sebastian Schwertner
Fecha: 2021
Band 2 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6500 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 1 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura ...
ⓘ
Autor(es): Sebastian Schwertner
Fecha: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
ⓘ
Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar
Compartir contenido
Iconos cercanos
| 3+ | ★★ Stier | ||
| 4- | ★★★ Rübezahl | ||
| 4+ | ★★ Barbarelli-Weg | ||
| 5 | ★★ La belle du jour | ||
| 5+ | ★ Boulderwandl | ||
| 6- | ★★ Annelore | ||
| 6 | ★★★ Biber | ||
| 6+ | ★★ Eieruhr | ||
| 7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger | ||
| 8- | ★★ Isolation | ||
| 8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer | ||
| 8+ | ★★★ Die Vollendung | ||
| 9- | ★★★ Dumbo |
Fotos Navegar por todas las fotos
Johannes Kuschke en ★★★ Dampfhammer 8 - Dampfhammer - Weißenstein
Purzelstein - Purzelstein.jpg
Frankenstüble - PXL_20240628_152551871~2.jpg
Gabriela Vrablikova en ★★★ Sever the Wicked Hand 11 - Severe the Wicked Hand.jpg
Sáb 9 Sep
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