Vías en Italia para grado seleccionado

primo tiro 20m trad oppure sulla dx "5a 20m" a spit oppure ancora più a dx a spit "6a 20m la fessura" secondo tiro fino alla "trincea" 70m trad poi in conserva o liberi fino in vetta

La via percorre lo spigolo Nord-Ovest di Punta Castellaccio. Interamente da attrezzare, soste comprese. L’attacco si trova alla base del canalone della Forcella del Dito. Possibile presenza di neve fino a stagione inoltrata. Attenzione alla qualità della roccia nel primo tratto che raggiunge la cresta.

Soste con spit, cordoni con maglia rapida per calata da verificare.

Shares anchor with Tecnologica.

Guidebook

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/jaufenspitze-nordkante-jaufenkante/

https://www.outdooractive.com/mobile/it/poi/merano-e-dintorni/discesa-e-arrampicata-lungo-la-cascata-di-parcines/25099953/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/kletterweg-partschinser-wasserfall/

Classic alpine ridge. AD, 4, 40° Ice.

Description

Topo

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/sarner-scharte-pescoller-verschneidung/37819369/

https://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/alpin/hoppetosse-schwarzwand-glaning-bozen-129_7985_157314.html

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/torre-juac-via-del-rifugio/

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/hruschka-fuehre-westwand-col-toronn-2655-m-dolomiten-sella-sas/62110627/#dmdtab=oax-tab1

Gipfel auf 2814m. 565m kletterstrecke + 160m vom Vorgipfel zum Gipfel

Gipfel auf 2873m 19 SL 615m + 80m zum Gipfel

Gipfel auf 2762m, 10SL + 30m zum Gipfel

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-buco-lagazuoi/

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/LAGAZUOI_Tetto.htm

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/lagazuoi-piccolo-giordano/#main

Longest and most appealing route in the Dolomites of the Val Gardena. It is difficult to find the right directions. After the long ascent a long descent must be taken into account.

Via Normale alla cima più elevata delle Cinque Dita. Spesso II/III, soste cementate, alcuni cordoni in via.

Bastano 5 rinvii

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/freccia-bis-erster-sellaturm/

At the base of the SE face, looking at the grey pillars/buttresses, scramble up the rocks (I-II) aiming for the three cracks/chimneys that cut the wall at the start of vertical rock. The route starts on a small terrace at the base of these cracks, following the right-most chimney in the corner. There is 1 cemented piton and 1 normal piton.

As with all classic Dolomites routes, there are lots of variations to the pitch lengths/directions:

1. Go up the short chimney, left at the top, then up a short distance to the anchor (1 glue-in piton with ring). (35m, IV/III, 2 pitons)

2. Go up through the chimney/crack above the belay, then up the next wall, either deviating left or going straight up the corner crack, until you reach a grassy ledge. Continue past the bolt & ring. Continue up some more grassy steps until the base of the chimney and the anchor (1 bolt). (20m, III+, IV-, III +)

3. Climb the chimney to the left of the anchor, continue all the way to the top (V-). Easier (IV-): follow the crack to the right, directly above the belay (not the chimney in the corner). At its end, go 1-2m more, up the little free-standing column and the chimney until you reach an obvious ledge between the two chimneys on the main wall. Traverse left along the ledge to the left chimney, to the left of the anchor below. Follow the easy chimney to the top with the anchor (1 glue-in bolt + ring). (15m, IV-, 2 pitons).

4. Easy scrambling leads you to the top of the pillar with one bolt. A thrilling 1-metre jump of faith takes you across the sucking void to the anchor (Glue-in bolt with ring). (20m, II, 1 bolt, 1 piton)

5. Go straight up from the belay for about 3 meters, then continue upwards over easy scrambling. One more small vertical sections leads you to the top of the climb, where you belay (1 glue-in piton) off a large boulder with some rubble, sligthly to the left. (30m, III +, II)

To reach the summit, walk up to the right around the boulder and scramble to the summit rocks.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/SELLA_foto/PRIMA%20TORRE_camini_sito.jpg

Nice climb. Friend 3

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_1/relazioni/SASS%20PORDOI_Pederiva_A.htm

Attacco a una clessidra vicino a una lama a sinistra del canale. Primi due tiri sulla destra del canale, trasferimento 50m clessidra a sinistra del canale sulla torre. Salire a dx del canale. Tiro successivo attraversare il canale e procedere a sx appena sotto una nicchia gialla. Uscire a sx fino alla bare di una grande lama, poi dritti in vetta. Scendere sulla cresta sud 25m fino a una forcella, passare sulla parete est doppia 25m poi per prati direzione sud ovest fino all'attacco

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella11/sella11.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/sas-bece-westgrat/

North face to holes, slightly right, later left left. From final band below summit keep right to exit. Occasional pitons.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-gianleo-croda-negra/

Routenbeschreibung der Erstbegeher: Westliche Zinne 2974 m. Erste Durchkletterung des Südwandkamins: Walter F. v. Bernuth, Emil und Hans Dülfer am 13. August 1913.

Vom Gipfelgrate der Westlichen Rinne zieht in die gelbe Südwand eine Depression hinab, die den Durchstieg vermittelt. Auf dem gewöhlichen Wege bis in die höhe der Scharte zwischen der Westlichen Zinne und ihrem südlichen Vorbauten, dann rechts durch einen Kamin auf ein breites Band. Auf ihm ein Stück nach rechts und etwas links der Fallinie der erwähnten Depression durch einen leichten Kamin auf ein zweites Band. Ein paar Meter nach recht und über eine brüchtige Stufe under einen mächtigen Überhang. Nun entweder äußerst schwierig durekt durch den stark überhängenden Riß hinauf und in dem flach anschließenden Kamin zu einem Absatz, - oder unter dem Überhang unschwer schräg rechts zu einem Riß, in ihm äußerst schwierig ein paar Meter aufwärts und in den Hauptkamin zurück. In ihrem oberen Teil verflacht sich die Depression zu einer Mulde, durch die man rechts haltend den Gipfel erreicht.

(Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1913 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland)

From the gorge between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola follow the obvious polished line to the shoulder and then climb the chimney (crux IV) to the top. Start of the first pitch is marked with a small white arrow and "Normal". Descent route by abseiling directly to the gorge (bolts)

http://www.quartogrado.com/volume2_2/relazioni/PIRAMIDE%20COL%20DEI%20BOS_Spigolo%20Alpini.htm

Spigolo

http://quartogrado.com/friuli/Fuart/240_Cima%20Grande%20della%20Scala_rampa%20sudest.htm