Vías en Lofoten para grado seleccionado

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009.

A serious line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards

1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

8. Og igjen..

The direct finish to Första approximationen

Slab climbing then a jug fest to the chains

The first route put up. Flowing movement up the scoop leads to crux just belay the chains

An easy starts lures you into the darkness. A unique route in this style for Lofoten

The extenstion to Is this all, Sophie?

The left route.

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof. 30m

2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge. 25m

3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 50m

4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay. 50m

5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance. 30m

The roof crack. Big cam needed.

1. 35m

2. 46m

3. 40m

4. 45m

5. 30m

1. 26m

2. 44m

3. 50m

4. 45m

1. 40m

2. 45m

3. 55m

4. 18m

5. 35m

6. 55m

7. 20m

Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing. 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp.

Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..

A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing