|Grado||Vía||Estilo de equipamiento||Popularidad|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area|
The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.
Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).
FA: Dave Lia, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder|
|V9||★★ Crankshaft Overdive
All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff|
|24||Dead Or Olive
An impressive line, even more so now that is free.
Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.
FA: Barrie Noye & Roland Pauligk. (var), 1969
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall|
|26 M1||★ Sordid Orchids
A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.
Start at the flake/seam 5m right of Tokyo Rose, on the elevated ledge.
FA: Pitch 1: Chris Shepherd, Parrish Robbins. Pitch 2: Parrish Robbins & Nick White, 1990
|55m, 2, 5|
|25 M1 R||★★ Lure Groove
Rebolted 2016. Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and monkey R to the arete as for Dance of Life. Then trend L up the arete, into a funky groove and up to a long-awaited FH (the Lure). There is little protection for quite a distance before this lone bolt. Join Clean Sweep (better) or Dinosaurs Don't Dyno (easier) for the last few metres.
FA: Rich Heap & Dave Jones
|24 M1||★★ Clean Sweep
For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.
Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985
|40m, 2, 1|
|24 M1||★★★ Dance of Life
Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.
Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
|35m, 2, 2|
|28||★★★ The Seventh Pillar (Free Variant)
This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.
FA: Dave Jones & mid 90s?, 2000
|18 AID:A2||★★★ The Seventh Pillar
1 18 A1 40m
2 18 A2 30m
3 1 18m
4 18 25m
This was the first route up Taipan Wall, an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status. Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).
FA: Andrew Thomson & Kim Carrigan (18M2) 1974
FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone (var.)(16M4) (16 & 17), 1966
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (22M1), 1982
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall|
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
FA: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970
|31 M2||★ Pegasus
Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.
Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Tropicana Wall|
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) Clicke Wall|
M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.
Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.
FA: Roger Caffin, 1966
The 'obvious' roof and corner about 30m right of 'Clicke Crack' and behind the large pine tree.
FA: Richard Rodd & Charles Gunst (alt leads), 1974
|M3||Our House, In The Middle Of The Street
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Lemonade Wall|
|M2||Hook, Hang, Hope
|M1||Receding Hair Line
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks The NEW|
|21 M1||Furry Around The Edges
FA: Peter Cunningham & Derek Vissor, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Cave Cliff|
|M3||★★ Escape from the Batcave
I bet every climber looks at this line, then keeps walking to the rings waiting beyond! The massive roof out the left side of the main access cave. RP's to #4 cam required. Could possibly go free. To descend (2nd pitch), escape up chimney, or climb crack on the left wall.
FA: Goshen Watts & Richard Lodge, 27 Dic 2013
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians The Rockwall Area The Rockwall|
|20 M0||★ Terrorcotta
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Mt Difficult Cliff|
|11 M4||The Hard Days Night
Distinctive crack aided through bulges.
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Drama Wall|
|19 M0||Exit Stage Left
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face|
|17 M1||Euthanasia Direct Finish
A sensationally overhung route using two aids (one is a bolt) which would no doubt go free. Start as for pitch 2 of Euthanasia.1. 10m Gain the bolt above the belay and traverse right to a nut placement then continue up to ledge. 2, 12m Up the broken line above to easier ground.
Set by Wayne Maher & Brendon O'Leary, 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall|
|17 M2||★ Heart Of Glass
|16 M1||Faulty Towers
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Maul Wall|
|21 M1||Skinny Milk
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Geranium (Brim) Springs Pine Bluff|
|21 M1||Hangin' at the Gym
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Burrunj South|
|14 M1||Tom Foolery
|22||★★ Gingerbread Man
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Elephants Foot|
|20 M1||★ Marionette
Good, steep climbing with a perplexing finish. Led with one rest, seconded free (21). Up Remains to be Seen for 6m. Traverse right on break to under-cut arête. Up it, veering slightly right to finish.
FA: Michael Collie & Chris Baxter, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer|
6m right of Whitebait, old bolt at start?
Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.
|15 M4||The Unkown Soldier
Initialled. Old bolts to thin roof crack
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Mt Rosea Left Side|
|26||★★ Coronary Country
The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.
The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.
The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.
Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.
FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (alt), 1969
FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1986
|23 M0||★ Royal Blues
An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.
The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts
Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (var)., 1969
FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks & Ginette Harrison, 1994
|20 M1||★ Rise and Shine
A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.
Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.
FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick & Tony Dignan, 1977
|9 - 12 M4||★ Melanoma
One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.
The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.
It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.
The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.
Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.
FA: Chris Baxter & Clive Parker (var), 1970
FA: Peter McKeand & Michael Stone (alt)., 1971
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Mt Rosea Main Cliff|
|16 M2||The Presciption Variant 1
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Eastern Wall Cliffs The Shanghai Face|
|9 M5||Racial Prejudice
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak|
Start: Major line 35m R of TGC.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter [var], 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Weathered Wall|
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sign Cemetery|
|21||Sign on the Dotted Line
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Old Wave Wall|
|19 M1||Who is This Woman Called Steph?
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Devils Peak|
|15 M7||Satan's Exit
The promise of three RURPs in a row makes this one for budding big-wallers. Takes thin cracks in the left wall of impressive, smooth 30 metre corner 35 metres right of 'Self Immolation'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Fred Langenhorst, 1970
|16 M3||Hell's Angel
Start at small isolated buttress at extreme right-hand end of cliff, 115 metres right of 'Black Narcissus'. Initialled and filthy.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett (alt) & Bob Connell, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Workshop|
|16 M6||★ Hot Rats
|19||★★ Chunga's Revenge
|20||★ Impossible Dream
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Observatory|
|17 M3||Titus Andronicus
|17 M2||★ Fruity Tutty
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak South Face|
|16 M4||The Gryphon
|16 M2||★★★ Cheshire Cat
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Main Face|
|23 M1||International Rescue
A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.
Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991
|25m, 2, 1|
|12 M4||All Out
Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.
Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'
FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1972
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Northern Cliff|
|16 M4||★★ Deja Vu
Start 3 metres left of 'Geronimo', 6 metres right of 'Peanuts'
|11 M5||★★ Pest Strip
Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'
|20 M5||★★ The Liquidator
Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip'
|10 M5||★ Thunderball
Corner 7 metres left of 'Falkenhorst'
Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque!
|19 M4||★★ Ten Years After
Start 28 metres left of 'Little Big Man', 15 metres right of 'The Renegade'.
|11 M5||★ The Renegade
Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'
|9 M4||★ The Lone Ranger
Slab 25 metres left of 'The Renegade', 6 metres right of 'Silver'.
Start at slab 6 metres left of 'The Lone Ranger'.
|9 M3||★ Tonto
Steep, initialled crack 9 metres left of 'Silver'.
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Middle Cliff|
|18 M1||The Guinea Pig
Initialled, 35m left of 'The Head Shrinker'
|10 M4||Pipe of Peace
Start 13m left of 'Justine'
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt William Liomin Castle|
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt William Lower Cliff|
Start: 60m L of 'Snuffy'.
FA: Peter Cunningham & Kelvin Longhurst, 1984
FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Green Gap Pinnacle|
|17 M1||★★ Caveat Emptor
A huge corner capped by big rooves.
Start: Starts half way up the gully just left of \\
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Wannon Creek Area Mt Frederick|
|16 M1||The Ring Cycle
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt The Cheesecake|
|14 M2||The Velvet Glove
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt Middle Cliff|
|16 M1||Slackus Grunt
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mt Fox|
|21 M2||★ Hell Bent
Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.
FA: Jacqui Middleton & David Ceber
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Picasso Block|
The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there!
FA: Steve Monks, Parrish Robbins & Louise Shepherd, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area The Grandstand|
|23 M1||★★ Sporting Chance
The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Rain Wall|
|24 M1||The Water Line
The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;
FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Spanish Wall|
|21 M0||★ Fragile Feelings
Used to be marred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.
Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Renaissance Walls The Upper Cliff|
|19 M0||(Unnamed 1)
|20 M0||Botticelli's Angels
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Death March Wall|
A great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt. Start at the undercut flake 2.5 metres right of Snap, Crackle And Pop. Up flake and vertical flake above. Traverse diagonally left to ramp. up left of blank face to horizontal break and traverse off left. A better finish from the ramp (grade 16) is to head up and left to the headwall and up the twin cracks. (Alt finish Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer 13-03-1993)
FA: Edward Darling
|17 M0||Who Can It Be Now
Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.
The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Victoria Range Track World's End|
|17 M1||Topographic Oceans
Start as for Guns and Greenbacks variant start.
FA: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1992
|20 M0||One Armed Bandit
Left of the wall with Topographic Oceans is a large buttress with a sentry box and crack line on its arete. Start at the sentry box. One rest on each pitch.
FA: Campbell Mercer & Jerry Maddox, 1992
|Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion|
|18 M0||★ Lion Tamer
Crack and short wall with rests on runners.
Start: Start 2 metres left of " Not Christians For Dinner Again".
FA: Campbell Mercer & Michael Reggle, 1992
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Cerrado The Saddle|
|23|| Grandfather Clock
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Rubiks Cube|
|M5||Pleasure And Pain
aid line 5m left of chunky puzzle
FA: Aaron Campbell & Vince Waters, 2001
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Split Rock Area|
|25||★★ Outside Line
FA: Robin Holmes
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Wombat Rock|
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Rolling Stone Wall|
|M3||★ Route 66
The first pitch is excellent and the entire climb has been done on nuts. Strat up the very thin crack on the L side of the main face.
FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1970
|M6||The Last Time
Ï've told you once and I've told you twice, you'd better listen to my advice, coz this could be the last time" Still a very hard route. Take a fistful of wires, a selection of blades, and some SLCDs Strat at the incipient crack 6m R of Route 66.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1970
|63m, 2, 7|
|12 M3||★ Poison Ivy
"You can look but you'd better not touch" The scene of atleast one near disaster. The direct inspiring line which will go free. Below the Lone of the two lines in the middle of the face, L of The Last Time.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1970
|60m, 2, 4|
|M3||Honky Tonk Woman
"She blew my nose and then she blew my mind" Has been climbed on nuts and will go free witha bit of work. At the summit of the block where all the major lines finish is a short steep wall. The thin crack is quite obvious.
FA: chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1970
|36m, 2, 1|
|Australia Victoria Granite Highlands The Bishop's Mitre|
|M4||Rainy Day Blues||42m|