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Vías como artificial en Oceania

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Mostrando 1 - 100 de 526 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
M3 Inquisition

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

Artificial 20m, 1
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V9 Crankshaft Overdive

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

Artificial 5m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff
24 Dead Or Olive

An impressive line, even more so now that is free.

Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.

  1. 18m (18) Follow the weakness to the foot of a small overhang.

  2. 27m (24) Climb the crack (originally aid) until to the roof and traverse left to a ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Climb the short crack, move left into the major line, up to belay below a steep orange corner

  4. 14m (-) Traverse left, then up to finish left of the overhangs.

FA: Barrie Noye & Roland Pauligk. (var), 1969

FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Artificial 75m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
26 M1 Sordid Orchids

A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.

Start at the flake/seam 5m right of Tokyo Rose, on the elevated ledge.

  1. 18m (25) Up the right-facing slabby flake (wires) to undercling (small cam(s), make it bomber). Burly moves to jug (RB). Crux crimps past 2nd RB to break, traverse R to guano ledge and DRB (18m). Wash your hands afterwards to safeguard against bird flu!

  2. 20m (26 M1) Take bolt brackets. Climb the closed corner above the ledge past 1 or 2 old fixed wires (bring your own too) then traverse left to gain the overhung ramp. Follow the ramp past three bolts (2nd bolt for aid) then up the headwall past final bolt to top. The aid move (an awkward dyno to a tricky catch of a pocket) might go free at 30+ if the strong persist.

FA: Pitch 1: Chris Shepherd, Parrish Robbins. Pitch 2: Parrish Robbins & Nick White, 1990

Artificial 55m, 2, 5
25 M1 R Lure Groove

Rebolted 2016. Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and monkey R to the arete as for Dance of Life. Then trend L up the arete, into a funky groove and up to a long-awaited FH (the Lure). There is little protection for quite a distance before this lone bolt. Join Clean Sweep (better) or Dinosaurs Don't Dyno (easier) for the last few metres.

FA: Rich Heap & Dave Jones

Artificial 40m, 2
24 M1 Clean Sweep

For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.

Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Artificial 40m, 2, 1
24 M1 Dance of Life

Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Artificial 35m, 2, 2
28 The Seventh Pillar (Free Variant)

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

FA: Dave Jones & mid 90s?, 2000

Artificial 7m, 2
18 AID:A2 The Seventh Pillar
1 18 A1 40m
2 18 A2 30m
3 1 18m
4 18 25m

This was the first route up Taipan Wall, an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status. Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).

  1. 40m (18 M1) Up the short pocketed wall, move 5m R and follow flake up R to horizontal break. Squirm R for 8m to awkwardly gain bolt ladder up white streak. Bring plenty of hero loops. One free move off the last bolt gains new DRB SHB (22m rap).

  2. 30m (18 M2) Step L and free up flake to a blank steep wall. Long reach to bolt, use it for aid to gain the next flake and either immediately revert to freeing (22M1), or keep aiding on RPs (18M2), to move L around the roof to the guano stained tip of the major flake. Continue up flake to a large horizontal break (with one final aid move for the 18M2 version). Crawl in for a lying down belay followed by an all-night bivvy (like Guild and Stone)...or take the far cushier hanging belay.

  3. 18m (1) The most outrageous grade 1 on the planet. Squirm awkwardly R to end of ledge and new DRB (45m rap).

  4. 25m (18) Follow the steep flake line up diagonally R (PR, BR) to the steep corner up the L side of the final tower, to a dangling topout at the very highest point of Taipan Wall.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Kim Carrigan (18M2) 1974

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone (var.)(16M4) (16 & 17), 1966

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (22M1), 1982

Artificial 110m, 4
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall
11 M4 Icarus

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

  1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

  2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

FA: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970

Artificial 61m, 2
31 M2 Pegasus

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

  1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

  2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970

Artificial 55m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Tropicana Wall
18 M0 Tropicana
Artificial 15m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) Clicke Wall
11 M2 Piracy

M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.

Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.

FA: Roger Caffin, 1966

Artificial 24m, 2
10 M3 Attila

The 'obvious' roof and corner about 30m right of 'Clicke Crack' and behind the large pine tree.

  1. 25m (10) M3 10. Free climb the slab to the bottom of the crack, then up to the roof and move right underneath it. From the edge of the roof move into the corner and bridge to the obvious ledge and belay at the back of the crack.

  2. 10m (10) Climb the right wall, then step back into the corner and follow it and the chimney to the top.

FA: Richard Rodd & Charles Gunst (alt leads), 1974

Artificial 35m, 2
M3 Our House, In The Middle Of The Street
Artificial 20m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Lemonade Wall
M1 Bandaid
Artificial 6m
M1 First Aid
Artificial 6m
M2 Hook, Hang, Hope
Artificial 8m
M1 Renegade
Artificial 8m
M3 Afr-aid
Artificial 10m
M1 Receding Hair Line
Artificial 10m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks The NEW
21 M1 Furry Around The Edges

Yuk.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Derek Vissor, 1989

Artificial 25m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Cave Cliff
M3 Escape from the Batcave

I bet every climber looks at this line, then keeps walking to the rings waiting beyond! The massive roof out the left side of the main access cave. RP's to #4 cam required. Could possibly go free. To descend (2nd pitch), escape up chimney, or climb crack on the left wall.

FA: Goshen Watts & Richard Lodge, 27 Dic 2013

Artificial 20m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians The Rockwall Area The Rockwall
20 M0 Terrorcotta
Artificial 30m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Mt Difficult Cliff
11 M4 The Hard Days Night

Distinctive crack aided through bulges.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970

Artificial 76m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Drama Wall
19 M0 Exit Stage Left
Artificial 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face
17 M1 Euthanasia Direct Finish

A sensationally overhung route using two aids (one is a bolt) which would no doubt go free. Start as for pitch 2 of Euthanasia.1. 10m Gain the bolt above the belay and traverse right to a nut placement then continue up to ledge. 2, 12m Up the broken line above to easier ground.

Set by Wayne Maher & Brendon O'Leary, 1983

Artificial 22m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall
17 M2 Heart Of Glass
Artificial 26m, 2
16 M1 Faulty Towers
Artificial 20m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Maul Wall
21 M1 Skinny Milk
Artificial 25m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Geranium (Brim) Springs Pine Bluff
21 M1 Hangin' at the Gym
Artificial 18m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Burrunj South
14 M1 Tom Foolery
Artificial 20m, 2
22 Gingerbread Man
Artificial 24m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Elephants Foot
20 M1 Marionette

Good, steep climbing with a perplexing finish. Led with one rest, seconded free (21). Up Remains to be Seen for 6m. Traverse right on break to under-cut arête. Up it, veering slightly right to finish.

FA: Michael Collie & Chris Baxter, 1992

Artificial 24m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer
M3 Bash-hook

6m right of Whitebait, old bolt at start?

Artificial 18m
11 M5 Whale

Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.

Artificial 25m, 2
15 M4 The Unkown Soldier

Initialled. Old bolts to thin roof crack

Artificial 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Mt Rosea Left Side
26 Coronary Country

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

  1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

  2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

  3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

  4. 12m (-) Scrub

FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (alt), 1969

FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1986

Artificial 100m, 2
23 M0 Royal Blues

An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.

The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts

Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

  1. 21m (23 M0) The seam past the odd carrot. Use one or two of the bolts in the roof for aid and then continue up to bolt anchor

  2. 27m (-) Up.

  3. 22m (-) Crawl right to bushy line, up to terrace (apparently Steve Monks straightened this out a bit). Now up left.

  4. 30m (-) Groove, shallow corner. Step left and up slightly right to below yellow corner.

  5. 20m (-) Corner, poor rock. Exit right around overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (var)., 1969

FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks & Ginette Harrison, 1994

Artificial 120m, 2
20 M1 Rise and Shine

A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.

Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.

  1. 25m (-) Left of two cracks, with some vegetation at the start, to ledge and tree on right

  2. 30m (20 M1) Corner, move right to arete and up to ledge. Short corner to overhang (one aid) and steep wall above to ledge on right.

  3. 40m (-) Up lower-angled section to distinctive flake. Above flake follow line on left to terrace.

  4. 12m (18) Finish up "Hypocrite" (originally finished up "Saturday Special")

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick & Tony Dignan, 1977

Artificial 130m, 2
9 - 12 M4 Melanoma

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

  1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

  2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

  3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

  4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

  5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

FA: Chris Baxter & Clive Parker (var), 1970

FA: Peter McKeand & Michael Stone (alt)., 1971

Artificial 110m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Mt Rosea Main Cliff
16 M2 The Presciption Variant 1
Artificial 110m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Eastern Wall Cliffs The Shanghai Face
9 M5 Racial Prejudice
Artificial 48m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak
15 M4 Dedication

Start: Major line 35m R of TGC.

  1. 34m (15) Up repulsive, vegetated crack around black mossy bulge. Continue up on rotten, mossy rock then move L to ledge and old bolt.

  2. 25m (- M4) Free up corner to roof, aid out under roof and up overhanging crack to tiny ledge.

  3. 34m (-) Exposed bulge and very mossy crack to large ledge. Easily up from here.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter [var], 1968

Artificial 93m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Weathered Wall
15 M1 Sunset
Artificial 34m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sign Cemetery
21 Sign on the Dotted Line
Artificial 15m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Old Wave Wall
19 M1 Who is This Woman Called Steph?
Artificial 80m, 2
20 Happy Hooker
Artificial 65m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Devils Peak
15 M7 Satan's Exit

The promise of three RURPs in a row makes this one for budding big-wallers. Takes thin cracks in the left wall of impressive, smooth 30 metre corner 35 metres right of 'Self Immolation'.

  1. 40m (M7) Cracks, then diagonally across overhang and up 7 metres to belay.

  2. 10m Up to tree.

  3. 37m Corner above (1 aid) to foot of chimney.

  4. 18m Chimney to overhang. Left and up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Fred Langenhorst, 1970

Artificial 110m, 2
16 M3 Hell's Angel

Start at small isolated buttress at extreme right-hand end of cliff, 115 metres right of 'Black Narcissus'. Initialled and filthy.

  1. 15m Up to right-hand end of roof. Traverse 3 metres left under roof to bulging hand-crack. Up crack (three aids) and on to recess.

  2. 20m Traverse 2 metres right. Aid left-leaning crack then free.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett (alt) & Bob Connell, 1970

Artificial 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Workshop
16 M6 Hot Rats
Artificial 65m, 2
19 Chunga's Revenge
Artificial 66m, 2
15 M2 Swarff
Artificial 56m, 2
20 Impossible Dream
Artificial 70m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Observatory
17 M3 Titus Andronicus
Artificial 93m, 2
17 M2 Fruity Tutty
Artificial 75m, 2
19 Darius
Artificial 75m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak South Face
16 M4 The Gryphon
Artificial 82m, 2
16 M2 Cheshire Cat
Artificial 80m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Main Face
23 M1 International Rescue

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991

Artificial 25m, 2, 1
12 M4 All Out

Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.

Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'

FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1972

Artificial 31m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Northern Cliff
16 M4 Deja Vu

Start 3 metres left of 'Geronimo', 6 metres right of 'Peanuts'

Artificial 65m, 2
11 M5 Pest Strip

Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'

Artificial 86m, 2
20 M5 The Liquidator

Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip'

Artificial 79m, 2
10 M5 Thunderball

Corner 7 metres left of 'Falkenhorst'

Artificial 86m, 2
12 M3 Apache

Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque!

Artificial 56m, 2
19 M4 Ten Years After

Start 28 metres left of 'Little Big Man', 15 metres right of 'The Renegade'.

Artificial 110m, 2
11 M5 The Renegade

Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'

Artificial 100m, 2
9 M4 The Lone Ranger

Slab 25 metres left of 'The Renegade', 6 metres right of 'Silver'.

Artificial 110m, 2
9 M4 Silver

Start at slab 6 metres left of 'The Lone Ranger'.

Artificial 95m, 2
9 M3 Tonto

Steep, initialled crack 9 metres left of 'Silver'.

Artificial 79m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Middle Cliff
18 M1 The Guinea Pig

Initialled, 35m left of 'The Head Shrinker'

Artificial 87m, 2
10 M4 Pipe of Peace

Start 13m left of 'Justine'

Artificial 130m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt William Liomin Castle
13 M1 Gerrymander
Artificial 65m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt William Lower Cliff
18 Jumping Jack

Start: 60m L of 'Snuffy'.

  1. 10m (18) Scramble up on L of buttress L of pinnacle to ledge below orange roof. Up corner then R to stance.

  2. 15m (-) Up broken corner, traverse L 4m then up thin corner to stance below closed crack. Traverse R and climb first gully. Abseil from tree.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Kelvin Longhurst, 1984

FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1992

Artificial 25m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Green Gap Pinnacle
17 M1 Caveat Emptor

A huge corner capped by big rooves.

Start: Starts half way up the gully just left of \\

  1. 40m (17) climb up into the corner, traverse right from below steep section and make a tricky mantle past a piton runner on to a loose block. Up left on ramp and on up crack. Traverse left to corner from fixed nut.

  2. 33m (17) (crux) up line (large nuts, loose rock, PR) and up right to main roof

  3. 33m (17) Traverse right (four aids, including two fixed aid pitons) using last aid to lower to ledge. On to right wall (fixed aid piton) and make an exposed traverse right (PR) to shallow groove. Up to ledge on right arete

  4. 38m (17) Up right to finish up the golden handshake

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Artificial 140m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Wannon Creek Area Mt Frederick
16 M1 The Ring Cycle
Artificial 260m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt The Cheesecake
14 M2 The Velvet Glove
Artificial 63m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt Middle Cliff
16 M1 Slackus Grunt
Artificial 130m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mt Fox
21 M2 Hell Bent

Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.

FA: Jacqui Middleton & David Ceber

Artificial 18m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Picasso Block
25 M1 Cubism

The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there!

FA: Steve Monks, Parrish Robbins & Louise Shepherd, 1990

Artificial 40m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area The Grandstand
23 M1 Sporting Chance

The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"

  1. 20m (23) Up the corner line, over the awkward bulge and step left to belay

  2. 25m (23 M0) Veer right up the continuing line to the left-hand of two hanging corners. Up the corner with 1 wire for aid.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989

Artificial 45m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Rain Wall
24 M1 The Water Line

The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;

  1. 25m Traverse down left along break to hanging belay where line sweeps upward.

  2. 25m (24 M1) Left along the line (2 wires for aid near start)

  3. 30m Up line to top.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Artificial 80m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Spanish Wall
21 M0 Fragile Feelings

Used to be marred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

  1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the flake system and easily to good belay.

  2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1983

Artificial 50m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Renaissance Walls The Upper Cliff
19 M0 (Unnamed 1)
Artificial 15m
20 M0 Botticelli's Angels
Artificial 25m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Death March Wall
17 Rain Dancer

A great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt. Start at the undercut flake 2.5 metres right of Snap, Crackle And Pop. Up flake and vertical flake above. Traverse diagonally left to ramp. up left of blank face to horizontal break and traverse off left. A better finish from the ramp (grade 16) is to head up and left to the headwall and up the twin cracks. (Alt finish Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer 13-03-1993)

FA: Edward Darling

Artificial 22m
17 M0 Who Can It Be Now

Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.

The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1990

Artificial 30m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Victoria Range Track World's End
17 M1 Topographic Oceans

Start as for Guns and Greenbacks variant start.

  1. 35m Up to roof, pull through, traverse right to strong diagonal line.

  2. Step right and up to good sling. Straight up then tend right for line of least resistance. Loose rock at top.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1992

Artificial 70m
20 M0 One Armed Bandit

Left of the wall with Topographic Oceans is a large buttress with a sentry box and crack line on its arete. Start at the sentry box. One rest on each pitch.

  1. 30m 20 M0 Up the sentry box (fixed wire), through the roof, then up the obvious flake crack above to a large belay on the left.

  2. 25m Traverse right to the arete then up the crack. Step right onto upper wall and up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Jerry Maddox, 1992

Artificial 55m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion
18 M0 Lion Tamer

Crack and short wall with rests on runners.

Start: Start 2 metres left of " Not Christians For Dinner Again".

FA: Campbell Mercer & Michael Reggle, 1992

Artificial 12m
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Cerrado The Saddle
23 Grandfather Clock
Artificial 20m
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Rubiks Cube
M5 Pleasure And Pain

aid line 5m left of chunky puzzle

FA: Aaron Campbell & Vince Waters, 2001

Artificial 12m
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Teneriffe Split Rock Area
25 Outside Line

FA: Robin Holmes

Artificial 18m
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Wombat Rock
M2 Live Wire Artificial 16m
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands Rolling Stone Wall
M3 Route 66

The first pitch is excellent and the entire climb has been done on nuts. Strat up the very thin crack on the L side of the main face.

  1. 44m M3 crux. Small wires all the way to the ledge.

  2. 21m M3 Continue up the corner past some bad rock near the top.

FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1970

Artificial 65m, 2
M6 The Last Time

Ï've told you once and I've told you twice, you'd better listen to my advice, coz this could be the last time" Still a very hard route. Take a fistful of wires, a selection of blades, and some SLCDs Strat at the incipient crack 6m R of Route 66.

  1. 48m M6 Crux Follow the crack for about 24m, traverse R on the & bolts to another crack. Climb this which gets easier. Loose blocks guard the exit to a good ledge.

  2. Free climb , very easy up L, mantle then traverse L and finish up the short corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1970

Artificial 63m, 2, 7
12 M3 Poison Ivy

"You can look but you'd better not touch" The scene of atleast one near disaster. The direct inspiring line which will go free. Below the Lone of the two lines in the middle of the face, L of The Last Time.

  1. 36m 12M3 Crux Free into the line, aid over the overhang and past a bush to a hanging stance from a DBB on the R wall.

  2. Aid to the top (beware of loose flakes) There are 4 bolts on this pitch. Be sure to go a long way back at the top. First nutted ascent was in about 1977 by Phillip Armstrong and Dave Maclean, who also removed a large amount of loose rock on the lower sections.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1970

Artificial 60m, 2, 4
M3 Honky Tonk Woman

"She blew my nose and then she blew my mind" Has been climbed on nuts and will go free witha bit of work. At the summit of the block where all the major lines finish is a short steep wall. The thin crack is quite obvious.

  1. 18m Aid the crack onto the top of the slab.

  2. 18m Easy to the top of the pinnacle, then down to the Bolt belay of Hydra.

FA: chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1970

Artificial 36m, 2, 1
Australia Victoria Granite Highlands The Bishop's Mitre
M4 Rainy Day Blues Artificial 42m

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