Vías en Oceania para grado seleccionado

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station.

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one.

Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.

The steep corner.

Start 6m R of Nero.

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.

Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.

The arete, veering L.

Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.

Try and find this one, I dare you.

Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.

Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.

Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.

Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.

Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.

Up line.

The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.

Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

Finish up blunt arete.

Start: Start just R of WMWK.

Good face climbing past BR into crack.

Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.

Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.

Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed).

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.

Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.

Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).

The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.

Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).

More like a RHV than a separate route...

Start: Start as for CC.

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

solo

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall.

1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher on glorious jugs, to chains (30m to ground).

The small arete with a bolt. Start R of LL.

Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope.

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

Start R of Clytemnestra at a little gully heading towards Agamemnon. Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Possibly the best crack at Arapiles. The diagonal elephant's butt crack is a classic of the genre. Start just left of Agamemnon and finish where that route does. Belaying off the rings is not ideal but there are some excellent features to sling.

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak.

Start: Start as for FP.

Up the face with 1 BR.

Start: Start as for FB.

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake.

Start: Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.

Start: Start on wall R of DM.

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.

Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.

Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.

1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into 'Quaver'. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of 'D Minor'.

2. 10m (20) Up arete left of 'D Minor' - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt. Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station.

Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.

Makes a good change.

This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. Small wires (take extra #3 RPs) now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21. Start just right of Tannin. While sketching out with your modern gear, spare a thought for Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent which was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH then up to chains.

A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Start 2m R of H. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to joint H at the bottom of it's crack.

Left to right over nose. Sit start.

Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

Boulder the start...

Up 'Jason' then R along traverse line to 'Mind Games'. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

Start: Start as for 'Jason'.

Start as for Mind Games.

Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.

The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.

Start: The R crack.

The curving corner.

Start: Start at the middle of the wall.

Sustained full value crack.

Start: Start 1m R of W.

The thin crack in the front face of the block.

Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.

To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

The weakness just L of a pedestal.

Start: Start 5m L of S.

Start as for Megalomaniac. Up Megalomaniac a little, L to sickle crack, then over roof.

Start up Megalomaniac then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy.

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.

Sustained arete, ample gear but you need to be able to hang on to get it in. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Up to pin, step left then up headwall. Start in the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

Start as for F. Traverse L past F and up the Intransience face (see the Cecilia Wall area).

Located on the level down and right of the Exodus ledge. Starts up poorly protected corner with hard climbing and poor rock to ledge. Continue up corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and then L to finish up arete.

Slab, crack, then steep but somewhat contrived arête. Take some wires and mid size cams for the middle section.