Probably the most sought-after climbing sector in Romania, as featured in the 2014 Petzl RocTrip Video. Here you will find Stone Butterfly, 9a+ among other test-pieces grade 8 and above.


An incredibly beautiful sector of limestone situated on either side of a huge waterfall. The name roughy translates to Angel's Wings and it looks just like it from the viewpoint on the way to the wall. Popular with hikers and climbers alike, this is a must-see in Romania. Here you will find the best quality in mostly harder lines, 6c and above. In the upper right sector 2 a lot of grade 8 climbs still need a first ascent! The wall is great in early or late summer as well as the temperatures by the waterfall remain low especially with a breeze.

This area is primarily an afternoon crag, with the first section of the wall just left of the waterfall (Sector 1, Left) going into the shade around noon. Right of the waterfall (Sector 1, Right) and the upper left walls around the corner past the waterfall (sector 2, Upper) do not see full shade in the upper half until 2 pm or later. The lower wall around the corner below the main climbs of sector 2 (Sector 2, Lower) stays shaded but these routes are short and lower-quality. Sector 3 gets shade earlier but is heavily overgrown and mostly ignored, as the quality is not as good, on tall broken low-angle rock. Sector Faleza de Jos gets sun almost all day until after 5 pm, and was not highly-praised by the locals.

There is a recent edition of the Baile Herculaine guidebook with an excellent topo of this area and other in the region including most of the satellite crags dotted along the valley.


The parking area GPS (44.96439, 22.48412) is limited and shared by hikers and climbers alike. As of late September 2023 the area across the bridge by the houses was roped off to prevent parking, maybe to expand the lot. Please park on the highway side of bridge and leave room for big trucks to get through. If the lot is full, do not crowd it...either go somewhere else or carpool from another parking area. On weekends it is best to get here by noon, or wait till later in the afternoon to find a spot after the hikers have left.


Cross the bridge and go along the fence line to find the big info sign. Follow the trail marker up the hill next to the houses and then go RIGHT where you see the trail split, following the red cross trail across the small metal bridge and up the hill.

(Do NOT make the mistake of going straight past the second signpost following the creek, as you will quickly lose track of the barely-visible trail and potentially get stuck in a very steep valley.)

Follow the red cross markers up the initially intense uphill trail for 35-45 minutes to reach the wall. Sector Faleza de Jos is along the way there with a faint trail uphill to the right...hard to find as you cannot see the wall from the trail through the trees. When you reach the waterfall, going right uphill will take you to the right half of Sector 1. Go under the falls following the wall to find the left half of Sector 1. Sector 2 is around the corner, and uphill a bit, divided into an upper and lower wall. Sector 3 is uphill further beyond, through a scree field and some vegetation.


Plenty of hotels, Airbnb's and other rentals in town. There are also multiple campgrounds scattered throughout the valley. Past the town of Baile Herculaine after the visitor center, you lose cellular reception.


Do not litter. Pack out all your trash. Take your toilet paper with you. If you see hikers littering, say something! Keep this area beautiful for everyone to use. It is normal for people to leave gear hidden at the wall to make the hike easier for following days. Please respect everyone's property and leave it alone if it's not yours so everyone can enjoy the climbing here.

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

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Jue 30 Nov
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