Mostrando los 13 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Sáb 13.º En 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | Brâul de Sus - con Andrei Badea | ||||||
Hornul N portion. Retreated pretty quickly due to shit snow
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1B | Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal - con Andrei Badea | ||||||
Good snow up to Saritoarea Mare, snow deposits and some windslab above. Most obstacles partially uncovered. We roped up for the last big obstacle (my head not in it that day) and descended the way since climbing nontechnical terrain on shit snow in high winds didn't sound fun
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Lun 20.º Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M2 | Brâul de Mijloc - con Andrei Badea | ||||||
A completely different fucking experience in unconsolidated winter snow. Our initial plan had been climbier, but blizzard conditions meant we decided to stick to easy alpine. Was ... not super easy. Also managed to take a tumble into the bushes near the bivy spot, lol. As the poem says, "agatat in vid de-un jneapan" XD
Did the bit from Scara de Fier to Amfiteatrul Coltilor Gemeni. Small detour on what was probably a portion of Braul cu Scorusi (we saw a mouse!) .Wanted to do the median portion of Valea Podurilor, but the entrance traverse would have been too sketchy (and impossible to protect) in the current conditions. Having nothing better to do, we tried to see if you can get from the lower saddle of ACG to the upper one on the ridge rather than by descending and ascending. You can, it's 1 40m pitch of M2 with marginal pro opportunities (climbing the "fang" itself is sketchy AF due to super chossy rock and the aforementioned shit pro, but there's a ledge to be taken left after the initial chimney) and 1 rap down off a tree near the ledge (red cordelette now on it) |
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Sáb 7.º Oct 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ | |||||||
5 | ★★ Creasta Frumoasă | 180m | |||||
Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ | |||||||
6+ A1 |
★★ Creasta Coarnele Caprei
- con
Dana Bazacliu
1
4+
40
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.
2
6+ A0
50
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay. First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70
3
5-
60
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem
4
6-
30
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.
5
3
30
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack
6
6 A1
60
escalada de primero por
Dana Bazacliu
My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap | 270m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.
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Jue 29.º Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | Brâul de Mijloc | ||||||
Not my day today. End up losing the line on the one bit I did before (Caprelor secondary - Padina lui Calinet). Find it again 1 overhang below me. Rap off a tree, rope a bloody mess. Get down, get myself off the rope, drop my reverso. Downclimb a gully, get my reverso back, climb a gully. Drop my trekking poles off my backpack. Somehow I managed to get home with all my gear, if not much left of my pride.
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1B | Valea Podurilor - firul principal | ||||||
When you end up falling, twice, off a 2m tall 3 UIAA bit just because it's a tad lubey, it's a sign from God you're not supposed to solo the 12m slab that's next. Not today at least.
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Lun 19.º Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | Brâul de Mijloc - con Andrei Badea, Andreea Nuta-Hera, Roxana Nicoara | ||||||
Partial from Locul de cort Elis to Valea Podurilor. Descent on Muchia Cotofenei.
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Sáb 1.º Abr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M2 | Brâul de Sus - con Andrei Badea | ||||||
Hornul N portion, retreated at Saua cu Iarba due to snow conditions
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Vie 14.º Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ | |||||||
5 |
★★ Creasta Frumoasă
- con
Andrei Badea
1
4
40
escalada de primero por
Andrei Badea
We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag!
2
5
40
escalada de primero por
Andrei Badea
Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro
3
2
45
escalada de primero por
Andrei Badea
From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock.
4
4-
55
escalada de primero por
Andrei Badea
Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves) | 180m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Crux of the route was a boulder problem on the approach, which we found dripping wet, with moving boulders on the top-out (would have been great holds otherwise, this way I had to chimney it). Also, our initial anchor was a pretty crap boulder. Above that on the actual ridge, the rock was dry and lovely. Gear used: small friends, 6 alpine draws, 4 120cm slings
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Dom 8.º Mayo 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | Valea Podurilor - firul principal - con Marian Anghel | ||||||
Until Saua Caprelor, where we crossed over. Decentish snow, everything covered.
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1A | Vâlcelul Caprelor - con Marian Anghel | ||||||
On descent, between Saua Caprelor and Braul de Mijloc
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1B | Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal - con Marian Anghel | ||||||
In spring conditions, a very easy F. Good snow and preexisting footprints. Apparently way more fun once you need to actually climb rock
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Mostrando los 13 ascensiones.