Ayuda

Ascensiones en Central Region

Buscando en:

Filtros de ascensión:

  • Protección
  • EPP
  • Hito
  • Viaje
-

Filtros de vía:

Filtros de escalador:

Ordenado por:

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 417 ascensiones.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad Escalador
Dom 14.º Abr 2024 - Sinaia
Stânca Sf. Ana Carieră
6a Traseul Negru Deportiva Muy buena
Silviu
6- Fácil Traseul Roşu Deportiva 15m
Silviu
5+/6- Fácil Traseul Galben Deportiva 15m Buena
Silviu
5+ Fácil Traseul Albastru Deportiva 15m Muy buena
Silviu
Dom 14.º Abr 2024 - Sinaia
Stânca Sf. Ana Brâna
7 Muk Deportiva 20m Medio
Silviu
Vie 12.º Abr 2024 - Muchia Cheii
Peretele Animalelor
6 Muchia Iepuraşului - con Andrei Badea
1 6 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea
2 4 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea
3 6 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea
4 2 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Linked with the previous one

5 6 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Left exit

Clásica 220m
Ruxandra V
Jue 11.º Abr 2024 - Caraiman
Valea Spumoasă Pintenul Cascadei Inspumate
Meșterică - con Andrei Badea Deportiva 100m, 16
Ruxandra V
Probably a fun easy slab route when not covered in crap

 
Jue 11.º Abr 2024 - Caraiman
Valea Spumoasă Colțul Berbecului
6+ A0 Fisura Berbecului - con Andrei Badea
1 6- A0 55m De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Friable, dirty crap

2 6+ 30 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Took flight with a rock the size of my head... same hold my 3kg lighter partner had put his whole weight on, on lead above crap pitons. No bueno. Spent some time working the moves in the overhang, felt quite proud to eventually manage it without aid. Couldn't do stuff like that last year. The lovely dihedral people mention is... fine I guess, but also short and bushy. Said fuck it and went home

Clásica 85m Basura
Ruxandra V
A family of worms crawls out of a pile of shit. Baby worm asks: mommy could we climb in Montserrat? Yes son, we could. Mommy but could we climb in Meteora? Of course, my dear. Mommy mommy, but could we even climb in Costila? Certainly, nothing's stopping us. Mommy, then why are we climbing in fucking Caraiman?

 
Dom 24.º Mar 2024 - Pietrele lui Solomon
Faleza Junilor
6a+ Clasa zero barat - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva
Ruxandra V
Toproped a plumb line containing bits of maybe 3 routes. Really cool overhanging start on alveoles. Footslip on a bit of the 5a I had done fine in boots earlier lol

 
6a Studentă eminentă - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Had to try it on lead even though it was beginning to rain. Rain stopped and sun came out the moment I was over the first bolt ♥

 
6a Studentă eminentă - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Common start with Stagiatura. Turns out I'm not too short to reach the start hold if I deadpoint it a little. Really cool route above, varied and kinda alpine climbing (loved the small traverse, and the forearm-and-foot-jam crack above)

 
5c A0 Stagiatura - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva
Ruxandra V
Too short to reach the start jug, so clipped the first bolt with a kong panic and then pulled on that. Also a weird moment near bolt 2, didn't quite trust a hold

 
5a Mami vreau la grădiniță - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva
Ruxandra V
In boots, for practice. It's really hard to unclip the crux bolt when seconding

 
Sáb 23.º Mar 2024 - Muchia Cheii
Faţa Hornurilor
6 Muchia Panseluţei - con Cristina Podocea
1 3 50m Clásica escalada de primero por Ruxandra V
2 5+ 35m De segundo escalada de primero por Cristina Podocea
3 5+ 35m Clásica escalada de primero por Ruxandra V

Stopped a bit in the crux - far less scary than it was the first time though. Far less rope drag on halfropes too

4 6 35m De segundo escalada de primero por Cristina Podocea

Wet

5 4+ 62m Clásica escalada de primero por Ruxandra V

New belay station right after the old tree. Rapping down the line can be done in 4 raps on 60m halfropes (unite pitches 2 and 3). Next time I'm doing it with my ropes on me tho, they got tangled in all possible bushes

Clásica mixta 220m, 13
Ruxandra V
Dom 10.º Mar 2024 - Caraiman
Peretele Albişoarelor
2A Albişoara Strungii - con baza Alpina
Ruxandra V
Amazing conditions, perfect snow and just the right amount of drytooling

 
Lun 4.º Mar 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Negoiu - Lespezi - Călţun Peretele Nordic Lespezi-Călţun
2A Hornul Călţunului Alpina
Ruxandra V
Solo,up to the major obstacle of the gully - so I really just did a bunch of snow frontpointing, and an attempt to bypass on the right ridge that fizzled out on account of 2m of shit snow I would have liked a belay on. Had a good rock for that and everything Tried going on one of the ledges that cross the wall (apparently the old timey routes are less committing than the modern stuff, since you can use those ledges to retreat to Hornul Caltunului when you cross them) but had weird vibes about the snow (corn crust above deep completely unconsolidated pow, on a northern face that sees no sun but a helluva lot of wind) so nah. Oh well, results not excuses.

Did a nameless gully on the aiguille across the Portita Caltunului as a consolation prize. Classical Romanian 1A, up on snow, then switch to some grassy ledges with a couple chimney moves to cross through a narrow saddle on another grassy ledge (1 weird but very short traverse where the hold I'd have needed to reverse broke in my hand, and this above 30m of void) and then a walk up to the refuge.

All in all, a very enjoyable morning.

 
Dom 3.º Mar 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Negoiu - Lespezi - Călţun Peretele Nordic Lespezi-Călţun
WI3+ M5 Duro LID (Lure Ice and Dry) - con dan colniceanu
1 WI3+ 50m Hielo escalada de primero por dan colniceanu

Hard blue ice is a different story alltogether than whatever grows on Bicajel 2. Need extra focus on my foot placements. Fell 3 times.

2 M2 30m Hielo escalada de primero por dan colniceanu

After blowing it on the previous pitch I didn't feel confident to try and lead the easy stuff either. Did the easy version that avoids the bolted crux on the right.

3 M1 30m Hielo escalada de primero por dan colniceanu

This pitch is the Terenul de Fotbal of this route. A walk on grass (well, snow)

4 M3 45m Hielo escalada de primero por dan colniceanu

Ice on the initial icy part pretty fucked, and not a lot of it either. Kudos to Dan for flying up it.

5 M5 50m Hielo escalada de primero por dan colniceanu

Tbh this felt harder than M4 on the direct line. We got good ice up to the first bolt, managed to get 3 screws in. Dan traversed a bit too far to the right to reach the third bolt, I went on the direct and would think this a M5 - couple short overhangs including one exit with axes in shit snow and frontpoints on schist ....texture, since I really can't call those holds, that had me peel off a couple times.

Hielo 210m, 8 Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Three years from the mountaineering class that started everything. The most "wow" thing there, for me, had been toproping a frosty boulder and ....can't believe I'm here now, rather than in five years' time. Granted, it helps that this is the babies' route, with bolted belays and everything, rather than the "leader must not fall, second must not fall either" style of the rest of the wall.

Conditions aren't really optimal btw,hard friable ice. P1 has enough of it, and P5 has bonus ice up to the first bolt, but the crux of P4 is hollow-sounding in points and a bit too thin to protect properly even with short screws.

Descent in 4 raps (we united p2 and 3). Watch out for the p3 rappel, it's easy to get your ropes stuck in grass

 
Sáb 24.º Feb 2024 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
1B Valea Coştilei Alpina
Marius B
Sáb 24.º Feb 2024 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag
M8 7 — 2 intentos - con Tiberiu Popa Hielo 13m
Răzvan Ababei
Sáb 24.º Feb 2024 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului Cave (Overhang) Dry-tooling Crag
M8 Duro Corabia Nebunilor — 4 intentos - con Tiberiu Popa Hielo 22m
Răzvan Ababei
Vie 23.º Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central
M8 Te Dai ori nu te Dai - con Mara Miron Hielo 18m, 5 Buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Cleaning the route.

 
M8 Te Dai ori nu te Dai - con Mara Miron Hielo 18m, 5 Buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Easily redpointed up until the chains. Spent some time there de-pumping and decided to go for the ice overhang, with screws on me, having no pre-set holes in the exit ice and no pre-placed gear in place. In hindsight, a screw way up there where the ice was stuck to the rock, with a sling on it would have been beneficial for clipping right after I cleared the ice. Got above the chains, committed to the ice, and went over the lip, feet still under. Did some bashing in the very hard ice and manage to slowly advance on some okish ice tool placements. Heinous stuff, swinging from lock-offs from under the curtain. Spent another minute de-pumping and decided to fully commit and made (an intentional) cut-loose, and in one single motion, brought my feet over the ice and voila, made it over the curtain. Unfortunately, just a few seconds after, my right tool blew (the okish one), and with 2.5-3m of rope from the chains, and rope stretch and fortunately a dynamic fall, took a mega whipper, being catapulted in the back (since I pulled my entire body back from the tool) with a severe arch, head down, body rotated, and smashed my body-sideways into the ledges of the overhang 8m lower. Hurt my back and spine pretty badly, no lung issues, and my elbow and forearm. Took my clothes off, got in the snow to lower the inflammation, and 10 minutes later redpointed the route again, but without attempting the ice once more time. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.

 
M8 Te Dai ori nu te Dai - con Mara Miron Hielo 18m, 5 Buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Putting up the draws and breaking off all the rotten ice from the curtain. Strenuous, 30min job, but managed to clear all the bad ice and was left with a hefty ice overhang, ready to be climbed.

 
Jue 22.º Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central
M10 Ice Lure - con Mara Miron Hielo 30m, 15
Andrei Verdeanu
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread. — with Mara Miron

 
M10 Ice Lure - con Mara Miron Hielo 30m, 15
Andrei Verdeanu
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread. — with Mara Miron

 
M10 Ice Lure - con Mara Miron Hielo 30m, 15
Andrei Verdeanu
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread.

 
M10 Ice Lure - con Mara Miron Hielo 30m, 15
Andrei Verdeanu
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread.

 
Jue 22.º Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Right
WI4 Duro Tracos I - con Mara Miron Hielo 40m Medio
Andrei Verdeanu
Tried a harder, vertical line.

 
WI4 Duro Tracos I - con Mara Miron Hielo 40m Medio
Andrei Verdeanu
Set up a belay just under the rime mushrooms. The exit was not feasible in these conditions.

 
Jue 22.º Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central
M6 Duro Access Direct - con Mara Miron Hielo 25m, 8 Basura
Andrei Verdeanu
Cleaning the route.

 
M6 Duro Access Direct - con Mara Miron Hielo 25m, 8 Buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Friable and dirty, cleaned the first few meters. Redpointed in two bits, some holds (drilled ones) are broken, making the lower half almost impossible to link. Placed screws on lead and set up a V-thread with quicklink at the top for others to use.

 
Mié 21.º Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Bâlea
WI3 Cascada de la coada lacului dreapta - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m Muy buena
Andrei Verdeanu
WI3 Cascada de la coada lacului dreapta - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m Muy buena
Andrei Verdeanu
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 ~WI5 Cascada de la coada lacului stanga - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m
Andrei Verdeanu
The overhanging icicles on the left.

 
WI3 Cascada de la coada lacului dreapta - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m Muy buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Slabby line.

 
WI3 Cascada de la coada lacului dreapta - con Mara Miron Hielo 15m Muy buena
Andrei Verdeanu
Center, vertical line.

 
Sáb 3.º Feb 2024 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
1B Hornul Coamei - con ionut brencea Alpina Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Up to the Window and rappelled back. Dry start, poor ice on the second major obstacle, more snow above (gets kinda shitty under the Window). Not that cold, but 90km/h gusts, and not a lot of space between.

Rappel line we used with 2x60: one end of the ropes one from the Window to just above the piton at the entrance in Furcile lui Baticu, one 15m one from that to the bolt, one long but not full length one to a 2-piton belay station (on a ledge to the left of the chimney proper) and another end-of-the-ropes one to a few easily downclimbable m above the start

 
4 Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) - con a merry bunch Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Good snow, all covered

 
Vie 2.º Feb 2024 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag
M4 2 Hielo 10m
Tiberiu Popa
M6 4 Hielo 12m
Tiberiu Popa
Sáb 13.º En 2024 - Sinaia
Zona Vânturiș
WI3+ ~WI3 Cascada Vânturiș - con Dana Bazacliu Hielo Clásico
Ruxandra V
Really cool, highly featured ice, the initial pillar almost feels like dancing. Did this once in the morning, came out of it super pumped. Spent the day running laps on the mini-waterfall above it, trying to train my brain in wasting less energy. Tried it again at the end of the day when I already felt tired and beat, came out on top with barely any pump. Yay learning

 
Sáb 13.º En 2024 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne
1B Brâul de Sus - con Andrei Badea Alpina
Ruxandra V
Hornul N portion. Retreated pretty quickly due to shit snow

 
1B Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal - con Andrei Badea Alpina
Ruxandra V
Good snow up to Saritoarea Mare, snow deposits and some windslab above. Most obstacles partially uncovered. We roped up for the last big obstacle (my head not in it that day) and descended the way since climbing nontechnical terrain on shit snow in high winds didn't sound fun

 
Sáb 6.º En 2024 - Bucşoiul
Padina Crucii
M2 Muchia Padinei Crucii - con a merry bunch Alpina Ni te molestes
Ruxandra V
Worst approach-to-technical terrain ratio ever. 2 very short pitches, at most M2, on friable bullshit that the new bolts improve but can't fix, and you do about 1500m altitude diff on trail and grass face for it. The company was lovely though, and at least it was good cardio, am not feeling v peaky these days

 
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Caraiman
Văi şi brâne
1A Valea Albă - con Dan Colniceanu Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
On descent, horribly loose avalanche boulders under the Blid

 
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Caraiman
Peretele Albişoarelor
Brâul Văii Albe - con Dan Colniceanu Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Almost no snow

 
M3 Albişoara Brânei - con Dan Colniceanu Alpina
Ruxandra V
Good snow up to the Amphitheater, almost none after. Obstacles covered in the lower side, above we had a fun lil bit of drytooling, and an ice chimney that unfortunately mostly had ice on the exit

 
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Piatra Craiului
Măgura Faleza Mică
5+ Uranus — 2 intentos Deportiva 10m Clásico
Pal Andras
Vie 29.º Dic 2023 - Făgărașului Massif
Văiuga
M3 Muchia vestică - con dragos neagu Alpina 300m Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Love.

My first winter lead (as opposed to winter gully solos, which are far lower responsibility). 4/5 avalanche risk (thankfully the wind that had created it had blown mostly westwards) so we kept to the rock more than the first documented ascent, which avoids the notch on the last portion of the ridge by a gully on the left... which we avoided since we wanted to not be found in early summertime with flowers growing out of our mouths, and took the ridge proper except for one sketchy downclimb and snow ledge traverse when the ridge got committing enough that I wasn't sure I could downclimb back if it turned out the V notch wasn't easily downclimbable/rappellable. Well, I say sketchy, but it was easy secure and protectable M2, it was just that I wouldn't have setup a 8m downclimb for a beginner second if I could have helped it without getting in worse trouble.

It was all easy terrain, somehow you could find a M3 version of anything as long as you were willing to accept the zigzags and the runouts. Mostly shortpitched, with a bit of shortrope on the snow bits and full belay on the last portion of the ridge where shit gets weird, Lots of rime, 30cm long blades in many places, could play havoc with your rope if you weren't careful. Dull Sarkens far better than sharp Darts for this sort of terrain since they stick well in such shit. And such an adventure, the easy rock and good weather made doable a lot of alpine fuckery. Classical Fagaras schist pro only for babies like me

I'll think about this climb for a long time. All I knew was the grade, a line drawn in Paint on a picture of Vaiuga west face, and one of my guide friends saying I could handle it on lead. He was right.

Love.

 
Jue 28.º Dic 2023 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
1B Hornul Coamei - con baza Alpina Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Really cool conditions (mostly dry in the lower side, hard ice patches) but after the approach from hell we were out of time. Rapped down from below the Furci icefall (not yet formed).

 
1B Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) - con baza Alpina Basura
Ruxandra V
Horribly aerated snow up to Saritoarea Mare. Some sort of unholy marshmallow consistency. Nasty rimaye next to the first obstacle

 
Sáb 16.º Dic 2023 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
M2 Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Lovely walk on perfect snow. Rock obstacles barely uncovered, easily downclimbable

 
Dom 10.º Dic 2023 - Făgărașului Massif
Sâmbăta Colţul Bălăceni
M3 Muchia Nord-Vestică - con Andrei Badea
1 M3 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Ridge to the right of the normal gully, so we wouldn't bother the other team on the route

2 M2 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Some M2 and more M1, we simulled maybe 10m

3 M2 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Rejoined the official line. Back to the obelisk belay we retreated from last time. L'aventure commence.

4 M2 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Spiciest pitch to lead. It's an easy but v exposed ridge, covered in unconsolidated snow. Can't see holds or pitons. With a lot of patience, housecleaning, commitment and a smidge of luck (hmm what is this great hold my right tool is on? Oooh a piton) it went well. Really fucking spectacular.

Belay kinda leaning in our harnesses in one piton since we weren't sure we'd have anything better in reach

5 M3 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Committing bit of ridge right after that single-piton belay, flake on the left looks like a good mobile placement but it'll fly. Easy, exposed ridge after

6 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

From the dihedral belay, we did the traverse versiron rather than the direct (one nut in the middle of the traverse, no pro otherwise.

Found the crux quite spicy, it's a 5 in summer but small weird holds

Clásica 320m Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Dom 10.º Dic 2023 - Morarul
Văi şi brâne
M4 Râpa Zăpezii - Râpa Mare - con baza Alpina Basura
Ruxandra V
Perfect consolidated snow in the lower part. The obstacle below the intersection with Rapa mica was recently affected by rockfall. The lower slab is full of crap, the upper right exit is blocked, and the upper left has you go through a new and poorly consolidated chimney and exit thru a sharp-edged window for a committing, exposed move on friable crap.

Between this and the hopefully-not-tuberculosis cold from hell, I had bad vibes about continuing so we rapped off (we added a second piton to the rap station over the second obstacle - crack could be deeper, but it should do)

 
Dom 3.º Dic 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag
M8 6 — 2 intentos - con Ruxandra V Hielo 13m
Răzvan Ababei
M6 4 - con Ruxandra V Hielo 12m
Răzvan Ababei
Am pus buclele

 
M6 4 - con alex Hielo 12m
Ruxandra V
Really glad Alex told me to try it, I'd never have guessed I can get my ass up a m6, even with rests

 
M5 3 - con alex Hielo 10m
Ruxandra V
Much less of a struggle than last year

 
Sáb 2.º Dic 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Creasta Generalului
M5 Traseul 7 Hielo 12m
Ruxandra V
Went slightly to the right of the bolt line, on the crack rather than the arete

 
Sáb 2.º Dic 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Pintenul Magarului
M4 Bondarul Hielo 20m
Ruxandra V
Fluturele Hielo 20m
Ruxandra V
Dom 26.º Nov 2023 - Jepii Mici
Văi şi brâne
M5 Valea Seacă dintre Clăi - con baza, Dragos Neagu, Marius Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Full start-of-season mixed conditions: wet in the lower third, snowed up in the middle third (I put on my crampons before the second window, later than would have been best), some ice in the upper third (2-3cm thick, easily separable from the rock below, we had some warm days before this). Made for easy but surprisingly cool climbing, esp somewhere in the middle where Baza decided against the classical, pitoned up traverse solution, free soloed some M4 mostly direct, then since I was on toprope and the M4 thing looked a)swingy and b) built for tall people I tried an overhanging direttisima version, maybe M5? There's a really bouldery fit-in-a-tight-box-and-then-do-a-long-move-over-the-overhang bit. Loved it.

 
Sáb 25.º Nov 2023 - Jepii Mici
Văi şi brâne
1A Brâul Mare al Jepilor - con baza, Dragos Neagu, Marius Alpina
Ruxandra V
20-30cm powder. Snowfall looking lovely in our headlights

 
Lun 20.º Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne
M2 Brâul de Mijloc - con Andrei Badea Alpina
Ruxandra V
A completely different fucking experience in unconsolidated winter snow. Our initial plan had been climbier, but blizzard conditions meant we decided to stick to easy alpine. Was ... not super easy. Also managed to take a tumble into the bushes near the bivy spot, lol. As the poem says, "agatat in vid de-un jneapan" XD

Did the bit from Scara de Fier to Amfiteatrul Coltilor Gemeni. Small detour on what was probably a portion of Braul cu Scorusi (we saw a mouse!) .Wanted to do the median portion of Valea Podurilor, but the entrance traverse would have been too sketchy (and impossible to protect) in the current conditions. Having nothing better to do, we tried to see if you can get from the lower saddle of ACG to the upper one on the ridge rather than by descending and ascending. You can, it's 1 40m pitch of M2 with marginal pro opportunities (climbing the "fang" itself is sketchy AF due to super chossy rock and the aforementioned shit pro, but there's a ledge to be taken left after the initial chimney) and 1 rap down off a tree near the ledge (red cordelette now on it)

 
Dom 19.º Nov 2023 - Făgărașului Massif
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Bâlea
M3 Piscul Bâlii - con Ionut Stirbu, Dan Colniceanu Alpina
Ruxandra V
Alpine rope techniques class. We retreated off the penultimate peak since we wanted to catch the cabin down and we had moved quite slowly, since, again, classtime Absolutely lovely weather, 40-50cm unconsolidated powder snow.

 
Sáb 18.º Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Vlăduşca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi şi brâne
1A Traseul Anghelide - con Dan Colniceanu, Ionut Stirbu, Smaranda Tolosano Alpina
Ruxandra V
On descent. Alpine rope technique class. 10-20cm snow

 
M3 Vâlcelul Crăiţei - con Dan Colniceanu, Ionut Stirbu, Smaranda Tolosano Alpina
Ruxandra V
Alpine rope technique class. Straight up unti the traverse to Anghelide canyon, rather than taking any of the right chimneys.

 
Dom 12.º Nov 2023 - Caraiman
Văi şi brâne
1A Brâna Portiţei Alpina Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Up to the Portita. Beachtime, and vibing away with the mountain goats.

 
Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Peretele Animalelor
7- Lupul cel Rău Clásica mixta 200m, 3 Clásico
Maier Horatiu
Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
1B Valea Seacă a Coştilei - con marius, elena Alpina
Ruxandra V
Initial plan was Hornul Ascuns, and this as approach. God, but it was less weedy 2 years ago

 
3 Coltul Prapadit - con marius, elena
1 3 Alpina escalada de primero por marius
2 2 Alpina escalada de primero por Ruxandra V
Alpina
Ruxandra V
We were expecting 100% bushwhacking to get there, so imagine our surpride when we got a relatively bush-free scramble, leading to a great view

 
1A Brâna Caprelor - con marius, elena Alpina
Ruxandra V
From Seaca Costilei to Malin

 
Sáb 21.º Oct 2023 - Bucşoiul
Văi şi brâne
4- Valea Pietrelor - con ursuletzii, etc Alpina
Ruxandra V
Nice and dry. Main line. On lead for the main obstacle (only bit we roped up for). There's a manufactured bolt in the middle of it but it's not very useful.

 
Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Peretele Animalelor
7- Lupul cel Rău Clásica mixta 200m, 3 Clásico
Maier Horatiu
Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe
5 ~Ac Lespezi - con andrei badea
1 3 De segundo escalada de primero por andrei badea
2 5 De segundo escalada de primero por andrei badea
3 1 De segundo escalada de primero por andrei badea
4 4 De segundo escalada de primero por andrei badea
5 5 De segundo escalada de primero por andrei badea
Clásica
Ruxandra V
Partner not feeling well. From the Great Traverse, one can retreat down to the Sarutul Pamantului belay on Terenul de Fotbal in 1 55m rap, and then down the line of the route.

At least I know the way now.

 
Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Pietrele lui Solomon
Faleza Junilor
6a Recreația mare — 2 intentos Deportiva
Cristina Podocea
6a+ Examenul de capacitate Deportiva
Cristina Podocea
5c+/6a Chiulangiul - con Ruxandra V Deportiva
Cristina Podocea
6a+ ~6a Examenul de capacitate - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva Clásico
Ruxandra V
Got scared of the space between bolts on the layback (do I hit a ledge?). Wasted a lot of armpower, ended up falling with my feet 1m above the bolt. Turns out I do not hit a ledge. However, at this point I had run out of forearms.

 
6a+ ~6a Examenul de capacitate - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva Clásico
Ruxandra V
A really bitchin' layback crossing into some cool dihedral/crack climbing. Climbs like a very tiny multipitch.

 
5c+/6a ~5b Chiulangiul - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva
Ruxandra V
Some moments of excitement when I wasn't very sure where the bolts were. Otherwise tho, good holds and obvious moves everywhere

 
6a ~5c+ Recreația mare — 2 intentos - con Cristina Podocea Deportiva
Ruxandra V
Fun dihedral, plaisir climbing.

 
Vie 13.º Oct 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor Sectorul Grota
6+ ~6 Guşatu' Deportiva 17m Buena
ThMe
Der Einstieg ist am besten etwas rechts des ersten Bohrhakens. Im unteren Teil würd ich die Route leichter bewerten, auf dem Band nach links fordert sie dann mehr. Insgesamt würde ich sie aber nicht schwerer als 6 bewerten. Insgesamt schöne Tour.

 
Dom 8.º Oct 2023 - Morarul
Văi şi brâne
1A Brâul de Sus Alpina Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
On the northern side, a very fun walk on a nice path with amazing views and 1 easy (if exposed, assuming you're taller than me) rock move.

On the southern side, it's all grass of the sort that gets damn slippery in autumn, so it was a careful and focused traverse.

Views on the north side are really out of this world though. Heavily recommended.

 
1A Vâlcelul Morarului Alpina Ni te molestes
Ruxandra V
The day's plan was Brâul de Sus, but I wanted a belayer for my preferred approach on Valea Adanca, and I couldn't persuade anyone that climbing northern gullies on a day with a meteo alert for high northwestern winds would be type 1 fun. No worries, you can get there on Valea Morarului + grass slope, even if it's boring and you don't wanna. Had a Freudian moment when I came to the intersection between it and this gully though, looked at the red arrow pointing right and continued leftward, still being somehow sure I was on the right path

Realized this wasn't Kansas anymore maybe 150m higher. Up to Brâul Mare al Morarului, the gully is technically very easy ... which made it climbable even while covered in lubey gunk. How to make a 2+ friction slab feel like 4+, basically. Downclimbing it would have been shitty, and I didn't want to descend the left face on 6-7 20m bush rappels either, so I continued upwards, thinking to reevaluate my situation on Brâul Mare. Was quite cheered up by a message from a friend with an encyclopedic knowledge of the area* telling me that the iffiest obstacle of the route was right under the Brâu but otherwise life should be smooth sailing, which arrived just as I was navigating it successfully.

Now, the thing about Romanian scrambling grades is that they rely on the "official" detours being taken. Following the geological line, or taking non-official detours, can lead to a far more fun day than you'd expect given the grade. The second part of my friend's message said that after Brâul Mare, I should leave the gully proper and climb the dwarf pine patch to the right until the end. Dwarf pine bushwhacking for a few hundred meters altitude difference is not my idea of a good time though, and I could see a decent grass face on the left up to Brâul de Mijloc, so decided to find my own way instead.

The grass face went fine. Brâul de Mijloc was also where I thought I'd find it, but rather than traversing on it until the middle of the dwarf pine patch proper, I thought I'd try my way a bit higher on the grass+rock portion under it before rejoining. These tend to be famous last words in Bucegi - for those of you who hadn't had the pleasure, a problem with these slopes is that they're very friable (both the grass pillows and the rocks easily detach from the substrate). So when the angle gets high enough that you're climbing rather than walking, you'd better be very careful about what you're doing, and there's no guarantee you'll be able to reach a point 30m away without gambling your life. It's micro route finding all the way, looking for the holds that are secure enough to take a bit of pressure and the line that will allow you to climb with the minimum pressure, and the micro route finding led me to almost the top of the gully before I could rejoin the bushes (my favourite species in the world by then). Probably the most committing thing I did this year. It was a very fun adventure for this one particular climber in that one particular mood on that one particular day, but I have to rate this Don't Bother because the "official" line will have you dislodging dwarf pine bits out of various orifices for a week after, and the line I took .... well, the sort of thing where you're barely even climbing but if anything breaks you die and everything is very friable and completely unprotectable is a typical style in the wilder corners of the Carpathians, but a very acquired taste.

P.S: the wind was fine, as I guessed, the area would be in the lee of Omu/Bucsoiu/Creasta Balaurului.

*If any of you want a guide for scrambling in Bucegi, Andrei Badea from BackToNature is your man

 
Sáb 7.º Oct 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
5 Creasta Frumoasă Clásica 180m
Marius B
Mar 26.º Sep 2023 - Coștila
Peretele Gălbinelelor
4+ - 6+ A0 Grotelor
1 De segundo
2 Clásica
3 De segundo
4 Clásica
5 De segundo
Clásica mixta 150m, 2
Cristina Podocea
Sáb 23.º Sep 2023 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
2A Valea Urzicii Alpina Basura
Alexandra Ungureanu
Dom 17.º Sep 2023 - Muchia Cheii
Peretele Animalelor
6 A0 Lupul cel Rău - con Andrei Badea
1 5+ De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Nice and smooth, classical first-pitch Animale bushwhacking

2 6 A0 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea
3 6 A0 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Layback is easier if you don't layback it. Very aesthetic pitch

4 6 A0 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Really cool dihedral here. By now I was quite beat and rested on the rope a lot. The traverse was incredibly fun.

5 5 A0 De segundo escalada de primero por Andrei Badea

Ropes ended up crossing each other quite a bit, made things a bit tough in the crux since I needed to sit on my PAS in the piton below and untangle them with about a meter of extra slack before I could reach the draw in the crux.

Clásica mixta 200m, 3 Clásico
Ruxandra V
Dom 10.º Sep 2023 - Morarul
Colţii Morarului
4 Traversarea Acelor Morarului Clásica
Marius B
Dom 10.º Sep 2023 - Caraiman
Văi şi brâne
5 Valea Seacă a Caraimanului - con baza Alpina Megaclásica
Ruxandra V
Hornurile Vaii Seci version, retreat on Braul de sub Streasina rather than up on Caraiman to save some time. Still missed my train tho.

The inferior part (up until the end of Valcelul Mortului) is pretty much dry - led or soloed most of it (exception: Saritoarea lui Zangur, where I really didn't like using a rotten log and an even more rotten piton as pro, with my last good piece (red Totem) halfway between me and the ground)).

On account of life being very wet, we didn't try the initial chimney of the Hornuri version directly, but did the "classical" version that avoids it on the right. Rest was led by Baza, wet but not horribly so. An extra piton was added in the Big Chimney at the beginning of the crux (rock looks like that's where the Great Snake Accident of 2023 happened).

Took us 12h from Busteni to the top - I'm not the fastest lead, plus we had a lot of pitons to test and hammer back in.

Descent on Braul de sub Streasina + Valea Spumoasa + Braul Portitei + Jepii Mici. Don't really recommend the Spumoasa trick in summer unless you absolutely have to, top part is a shitty grass slope where one slip means you end up a few hundreds of m lower.

 
Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
6+ A1 Creasta Coarnele Caprei - con Dana Bazacliu
1 4+ 40 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.

2 6+ A0 50 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay.

First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free

Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70

3 5- 60 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem

4 6- 30 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.

5 3 30 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack

6 6 A1 60 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap

Clásica mixta 270m, 10 Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Sinaia
Stânca Sf. Ana Carieră
6a Traseul Negru Deportiva
Silviu
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Sinaia
Stânca Sf. Ana Brâna
7 Muk — 9 intentos Deportiva 20m
Silviu
Bau Deportiva
Silviu
Before the top the trail vanishes & I finished it in CuCu

 

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 417 ascensiones.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文