Nodo |
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Ban-y-Gor |
The Mushroom Walls |
The Mushroom Walls |
D Shaggy Ink Cap |
6a+ ★ Little Stiff'ner |
6b ★ Slow Macabre Dance |
HVS 5a We Are the Champignons |
S 4b Phallus Impudicus |
E1 5b Laccaria Lacata |
HVS 5a Mushroom Boys |
E1 5b Fly Agaric |
VS 5a Shrooms |
VS 4b Mycology |
E1 5c Days of Mushy Peas |
5a Two Name Graham |
5b The Gruesome Toothsome |
4a The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo |
Nine Lives |
Nine Lives |
HS 4b Nine lives arete |
S Ivy Step |
E3 5c Jah Wobble |
E4 6b Imitator |
VS 4c Mammoth |
HVS 5a Dinosaur |
HVS 5a Citadel |
VS 4c Peter |
HVS 5a Matt |
5c ★ The Blessing |
E3 6a ★ Private Lives |
HVS 5b Gonna Write a Classic |
6b+ Discharge |
HVS 5a Nine Lives Gone |
E4 6a Gordon Rides the Send Train |
HVS 5a Self Preservation |
7a The Unpure |
7a Totally Awesomely Cool |
5c The Chubby Brown Syndrome |
HVS 4c Totally Manning |
5c The Itch You Can Never Scratch |
Mandela Sector |
Mandela Sector |
E2 5c Mondays Never Rain |
HS 4b Squelch |
6c+ Trans-African Drum Battle |
6b Doyouthinkhesawus |
6b+ The Disillusioned Bronto Machine |
6b Slug Control |
7a It's a Fluke |
5a Day Break |
5+ Morning Winpenny |
6a
Crack Around The World
Two pitch traverse. Long slings advisable. Gear needed between 'Spunk Trumpets' and 'Join The Union, Jack'. Pitch 1: 18m, 8 bolts, F5 - Start at 'Morning Wimpenny' to the break. Traverse left to 'Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists' Pitch 2: 12m, 6 bolts, F6a - Traverse under the overhangs to 'Lotus Wing'. Into 'Dry Tree' and exit into the yew tree.
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6b+ ★★ Duhkha |
6c East of Sweden / Blabba Mouth / Duhkha Combo |
7a+ Blabba Mouth |
6c ★★ East of Sweden |
7c
Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections
A very good link up which starts at Nelson Mandela, then crosses East of Sweden to finish up Blabba Mouth taking the cruxes of each route one after the other. Start up Nelson Mandela and climb the lower half to the break. Make a move up to the big shared hold of East of Sweden. Then begin the tricky move up the steep shallow groove to good holds just above the bolt. Now step right to gain a big spike side pull on Blabba Mouth and continue up this passing some perplexing moves on small sloping edges. Additional info: Clip first 3 on Nelson. Clip one on East of Sweden then use bolts on Blabba Mouth to lower off - it's not too hard to work out. I hope. |
7b ★★★ Nelson Mandela |
6b+ ★★ Sperm Whales |
6c Spunk Trumpets |
HVS 4c The Chimney Crusade |
E2 5c Roof of Gore |
6b Join the Union, Jack |
6c Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists |
6c Just Yvonne More |
6c Stars and Stripes |
7a+ Bad Man from Bodie |
7b Flat Baps |
6b ★ Lotus Wing |
6c Dry Day |
4 That Historic Reach |
Glass Gully |
Glass Gully |
6a
Laughability
Start by a fallen yew tree close to Glass Gully. Climb straight up to an undercut ledge and make an acrobatic move to stand on it. Taking great care with the friable hand holds, continue to an abseil station just above. |
6a
You're Having A Laugh?
The short slab which shares an abseil station with Amuse Bouche |
5a
Amuse Bouche
The rising diagonal line on the slab just right of Glass Gully. |
5c
I've Got A Bad, Bad Bottom!
Described in the CC 'Wye Valley Supplement 2012'. Continuation of Amuse Bouche on Mandela Buttress. |
4b
Double The Fun
Immediately left of Amuse Bouche is a narrow gulley. Ascend the left side of it's slim right rib to the terrace; then climb the left side of the headwall above, with the crux at the top. Abseil station. |
Bronto Buttress |
Bronto Buttress |
6a+ The Toe |
E2 5c The Tao |
6c+ One Step Ahead of the Blues |
VS 4c
Breaking for Spares
A reasonable climb with good positions. CLimb onto the enormous tree projecting from the foot of the crag and climb the wall above to a break. Step up and left onto the arete, gain a ledge above and move out right to a concealed hold on the crest of the arete. Finish up this. |
5b ★★ Darkside |
E2 5c
Summertime Blues
This might actually be soft E3 5c for the direct start, as per the (1997) guidebook, but it seems more logical to start up the corner. |
6b The Chepstow Triangle |
6c ★ Always The Rain |
VS 4c
Indian Summer
Start up Always the rain, before stepping left behind bushes and climbing groove to the ledge |
VS 4b
Hurry On Sundown
Start at a yew tree between Indian Summer and Dabbawallah. Despite reports to the contrary this route has not been bolted. |
The White Slab |
The White Slab |
4c ★ Dabbawallah |
5a Afternoon Tea With T |
5a Full Tidenham Breakfast |
6a+ ★ A Midsummer Night's Garden (1) |
5c A Midsummer Night's Garden (2) |
VS 5a Kawrona |
6a
★ Tinaderm
The bolted line right of the two pegs in a thin seam. Surmount a block overhang and then take a curving line left to the lower-off |
6a
Tinaderm (Circular)
Better than you'd think. Some shapely climbing gains the top on the huge flake from where more delicate moves lead circuitously up leftwards. |
HVS 5a
Trust Me
Start 2 m left of Tinaderm and climb direct to a thin crack. Make a quick step up to good holds. Continue through saplings to find good tree to ab off. |
HVS 5b
Ought'n Be
Climb White slab direct past two in-situ pegs. Top very unpleasant and loose |
5c The royal thanks I |
6a+ ★★ The royal thanks II |
6b ★ Autumnal Dark |
VS 5a
There's a Lot of It About
Follow the corner until the roof then move left onto the arete face with few solid hand holds. A tree awaits above. 30 feet, originally graded HS 5a. |