Nodos en Ban-y-Gor

Two pitch traverse. Long slings advisable. Gear needed between 'Spunk Trumpets' and 'Join The Union, Jack'.

Pitch 1: 18m, 8 bolts, F5 - Start at 'Morning Wimpenny' to the break. Traverse left to 'Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists'

Pitch 2: 12m, 6 bolts, F6a - Traverse under the overhangs to 'Lotus Wing'. Into 'Dry Tree' and exit into the yew tree.

• Branch absail.

A very good link up which starts at Nelson Mandela, then crosses East of Sweden to finish up Blabba Mouth taking the cruxes of each route one after the other. Start up Nelson Mandela and climb the lower half to the break. Make a move up to the big shared hold of East of Sweden. Then begin the tricky move up the steep shallow groove to good holds just above the bolt. Now step right to gain a big spike side pull on Blabba Mouth and continue up this passing some perplexing moves on small sloping edges.

Additional info: Clip first 3 on Nelson. Clip one on East of Sweden then use bolts on Blabba Mouth to lower off - it's not too hard to work out. I hope.

Start by a fallen yew tree close to Glass Gully. Climb straight up to an undercut ledge and make an acrobatic move to stand on it. Taking great care with the friable hand holds, continue to an abseil station just above.

The short slab which shares an abseil station with Amuse Bouche

The rising diagonal line on the slab just right of Glass Gully.

Described in the CC 'Wye Valley Supplement 2012'. Continuation of Amuse Bouche on Mandela Buttress.

Immediately left of Amuse Bouche is a narrow gulley. Ascend the left side of it's slim right rib to the terrace; then climb the left side of the headwall above, with the crux at the top. Abseil station.

A reasonable climb with good positions. CLimb onto the enormous tree projecting from the foot of the crag and climb the wall above to a break. Step up and left onto the arete, gain a ledge above and move out right to a concealed hold on the crest of the arete. Finish up this.

This might actually be soft E3 5c for the direct start, as per the (1997) guidebook, but it seems more logical to start up the corner.

Start up Always the rain, before stepping left behind bushes and climbing groove to the ledge

Start at a yew tree between Indian Summer and Dabbawallah. Despite reports to the contrary this route has not been bolted.

The bolted line right of the two pegs in a thin seam. Surmount a block overhang and then take a curving line left to the lower-off

Better than you'd think. Some shapely climbing gains the top on the huge flake from where more delicate moves lead circuitously up leftwards.

Start 2 m left of Tinaderm and climb direct to a thin crack. Make a quick step up to good holds. Continue through saplings to find good tree to ab off.

Climb White slab direct past two in-situ pegs. Top very unpleasant and loose

Follow the corner until the roof then move left onto the arete face with few solid hand holds. A tree awaits above. 30 feet, originally graded HS 5a.